Testing a CV Axle

[ratdude747]

My 1999 Dodge Durango was in an accident a few weeks ago… the right side suspension is a mess (snapped upper ball joint, bent up control arm, bent shock) and in addition, the Outer CV boot ripped in two places, my guess is from the sharp edges of the bent control arm when the the thing was moved during towing; the damage looks fresh (and before I got T-boned it wasn’t clicking or leaking CV grease).

However, since it was in a collision, I’d like to find out if it’s just a boot issue or if the joint itself was ruined as well. It’s gushing grease as it is… and until the upper control arm is replaced I can’t remove the axle (I don’t have air tools). Not wanting to have to drive it with a ripped boot, is there any way to test the axle/joint without driving the vehicle?

Topic

[college man]

Usually we test drive the vehicle. All you can do is inspect
the axle and joints for bent or broken parts.

[Lorrin Barth]

You can raise the vehicle (safety first) and rotate the wheel and look for unusual play in the axle. A very small amount is normal. I’m not sure why you want do know this if the vehicle is not now drivable.

[george gonzalez]

It’s usually cheaper and easier to just replace the whole drive shaft. They’re only like $80 exchange. A boot is about half that plus a good half hour of messy work and you still don’t know if the joint is any good. best to splurge the extra few bucks and get a whole new driveshaft with the two new boots and new grease and probably not as bent as your old one.

[EricTheCarGuy]

Given that axles are cheep, I would just replace the axle. Why take a chance?

[ratdude747]

[quote=”barneyb” post=83040]You can raise the vehicle (safety first) and rotate the wheel and look for unusual play in the axle. A very small amount is normal. I’m not sure why you want do know this if the vehicle is not now drivable.[/quote]

Because either way I’d like to combine shipping on my rockAuto order coming up.

—

The reason I’d prefer to reboot if I can is that I can get both boots for $-20-$40… and I’ve read horror stories on both remans (missing clamps, insufficient grease, etc) and new units (flimsy axleshafts, etc.). The existing axle is the OE original. If the joint is good, I’d rather know it was refurbished right with my own two hands than have to guess on some sketchy axle-shaped-object that was made god knows where, probably by somebody paid by the unit (read: slapped together).

Yeah, I can get a new cardone axle for $45 on rockauto, no core to worry about… but I read that despite the good name they were junk. Same for all thier new axle brands (they don’t have remans available, I’d have to buy local for that). If I thought I could get a decent axle w/o visiting the stealership, I would from the start. However, If all can get is junk, then if I can reboot the old axle, I will.

Edit: I didn’t note any play… but the collision occured while turning (and 4wd was on, it was on unplowed snow). At least it wasn’t the inner wheel that was hit (making a left, front/mid right struck).

edit #2: Also, if there are decent axles, who makes them?

[Lorrin Barth]

Okay, I have to go against the grain here – I’ve rebooted quite a few axles. Its messy but I enjoy the work. I once got a boot that wasn’t compatible with the grease supplied in the kit, it swelled up like a pregnant guppy and I had a do over.

I like OEM axles – I’ve never worn one out but I’ve worn out some boots. YMMV.

[Duncan]

If parts of the suspension were mangled on that side, it would be a good idea to replace the driveshaft anyway, as it could well have bent. If you are worried about remanufactured stuff, go to a breakers / dismantlers and get one from there. You can check it all looks good before you buy

[ratdude747]

[quote=”LRDisco” post=83071]If parts of the suspension were mangled on that side, it would be a good idea to replace the driveshaft anyway, as it could well have bent. If you are worried about remanufactured stuff, go to a breakers / dismantlers and get one from there. You can check it all looks good before you buy[/quote]

The upper half of the wheel was hit, snapping the upper ball joint, bending the upper control arm, and when it bent, it took out the shock. The lower ball joint and tie rod end are fine (no play or damage). When I rotated the axle, it seemed straight and I didn’t note any cv joint play. I think the inner joint’s sliding aspect allowed enough crush to avoid axle bending.

Sounds like either way ill have to do the control arm first as I can’t pull the axle with the corner on jackstands; I don’t have an impact wrench.

[Kevin Criswell]

To be honest, I would go with a new axle. I used to rebuild them before they got cheap and I can honestly tell you, many people not used to rebuilding a constant velocity axle is that it is easily damaged.

I have seen the outer joint ridge damaged by driving it off incorrectly and a new boot fail to stay on. I have seen damaged cages and damaged splines. And the proper boot clamps can be a royal pain, often fail to work first time for a person not used to installing them.

For DIYer I recommend a new axle, easier to deal with and will put on the road much faster, trust me after dealing with that control arm, the last thing you will want to do is rebuild a CV axle by hand.

[ratdude747]

I think I’ll just get a Cardone Select axle for $45 and be done. Yeah, it’s made in china, but at least it’s a US company doing the engineering. As for the old axle… I hear my buddy has a good slingshot, I’ll leave it there :D.

[Author]

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