Menu

Temps on catalytic converter

Home Forums Stay Dirty Lounge Service and Repair Questions Answered Here Temps on catalytic converter

  • Creator
    Topic
  • #592904
    DaveDave
    Participant

      I watched Eric’s video on checking a catalytic converter and from what I understand, the temps should be the same at either end.

      I tested mine at the inlet right before the heat shield and at the outlet just as the pipe starts. I got temps of 290+/- inlet and 130+/- on the outlet.

      This is on a ’95 Cavalier if that matters.

      Does this look like a bad cat?

      -Thank you.

      OH! A couple of months ago, I was driving and no matter how much gas I gave it, I couldn’t go faster.

      BUT – when I shut the car off and drove again, the problem went away and hasn’t appeared again.

    Viewing 8 replies - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
    • Author
      Replies
    • #592922
      Steven CummingsSteven Cummings
      Participant

        Your temperatures are very low. The outlet temperature should be much higher on your out (around 500-800C)

        #592930
        DaveDave
        Participant

          OK. So, the temp difference is indicative of a bad catalytic converter?

          #593117
          EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
          Keymaster

            You might want to re-watch the video.

            As it states the temp on a working converter should be 100ºF hotter on the outlet than the inlet. You also need to bring the car up to operating temperature when you do the test. Given your readings I’m not sure you did that.

            #593137
            Steven CummingsSteven Cummings
            Participant

              Also, If you don’t have a code…don’t worry about it. Don’t look for a problem where there is none.

              #593196
              DaveDave
              Participant

                OK, thanks.

                BTW, it was at operating temperature

                #593199
                DaveDave
                Participant

                  I failed emissions with high NOx and HC.
                  And my car’s ECU didn’t throw a code. Anyway, it’s really hard to check since I have GM OBD “1.5” – those !^%#@%#&@&!!! Thanks GM!

                  The basics checked out – clean air filter, fuel pressure regulator, plugs, wires, etc …

                  My O2 sensor (I have just one) was giving weird voltages at idle (+650mV). When I pulled it, it was UGLY – lots of white crusty crap.
                  That was probably antifreeze residue from before I put a new head gasket in.

                  And I had some backfiring issues a couple of years ago.

                  SOOOOOOOO … all of that probably toasted my CAT.

                  I got a new one coming in about a half hour from now for $128.

                  #593203
                  DaveDave
                  Participant

                    Alright – get this.

                    I just pulled my cat. And it rattled. Looking in, the medium looked like this chuck of eggplant sized …stuff.

                    And it moved around by just tilting it.

                    So, here’s my theory about why I had that issue with no power a month or so ago.

                    That chunk of junk rattled around to the outlet or inlet and blocked it. And when I stopped, it settled down and allowed for the exhaust to go through.

                    Allowing for everything to work fine again.

                    #593215
                    Steven CummingsSteven Cummings
                    Participant

                      Glad you figured that out. Sorry about the emissions test. I have one coming up myself. Should have remembered yours was not OBDII and not as robust on the codes.

                    Viewing 8 replies - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
                    • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
                    Loading…
                    toto togel situs toto situs toto