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Basically I’m in the same camp as Eric. Synthetics have there place and in some areas they really work better. For instance synthetic gear lubes for diffs/trans and transfer cases when you live in the cold climate locations.
There is a video from a training outfit on youtube where they talk about all the specific oils used in different makes and models, The end result is that some of these auto companies are refusing to honor the warranty because the wrong oil was used.Another item to keep in mind is viscosity ratings. Today’s engines are built with tighter clearances and smaller oil passages, they spec a viscosity for those conditions and if you decide to use some 10W40 when the spec is for 5W30 you could cause wear or other cold start problems.
Hard to make a call on this one. I’ve heard this topic debated to death. I highly regard Eric’s opinion but I’ve read too many differing ones from engineers with phds after their names. The Mobile 1 website runs through a list of ‘myths’ about synthetic oil…but then again, they’re selling oil. Its a lot like the whether Seafoam really works or not debate.
So I’m just going with my unacredited instincts. Engines can rack up 300k now days when, once upon a time they were ready for a rebuild at 90k. Besides superior engineering and metal alloys I think that has a lot to do with new oils. So I run the synthetics. Also, and it may be psychosomatic, my beaters just feel pluckier when I run them. …that ‘happy car’ feel when you just change your oil.
What would make an interesting video are oil filters and those magnets they put on them. Those are topics that really get people pissy and cutting old frams in half…lol
Hard to make a call on this one. I’ve heard this topic debated to death. I highly regard Eric’s opinion but I’ve read too many differing ones from engineers with phds after their names. The Mobile 1 website runs through a list of ‘myths’ about synthetic oil…but then again, they’re selling oil. Its a lot like the whether Seafoam really works or not debate.
So I’m just going with my unacredited instincts. Engines can rack up 300k now days when, once upon a time they were ready for a rebuild at 90k. Besides superior engineering and metal alloys I think that has a lot to do with new oils. So I run the synthetics. Also, and it may be psychosomatic, my beaters just feel pluckier when I run them. …that ‘happy car’ feel when you just change your oil.
What would make an interesting video are oil filters and those magnets they put on them. Those are topics that really get people pissy and cutting old frams in half…lol
I would tend to agree with Eric on this one as I know an experienced mechanic who is also the proud owner of a 20 year old Rolls Royce and a Bentley Mulsanne Turbo of similar vintage.
He swears by regular oil changes and maintains that if an oil is changed regularly and within the specified intervals, then a synthetic is not needed on order vehicles.
However, on newer vehicles and especially where the manufacturer recommends them and warranty claims could be declined if you’ve used the ‘wrong’ oil, then he accepts that they are necessary, if only to maintain the warranty.
Personally I stick with manufacturers recommendations as to type and viscosity but I change it more frequently regardless of type. At the end of the day some would consider this a waste of money but, what’s cheaper, frequent oil changes or a new engine?
Life’s just a ride.
Sorry Eric but I disagree:
Full Sintec Oils are so much better than regular Oil. I remember a Video you took of a Acura Adjusting Valve and you where impress about How clean and nice the engine wass. and you said because the owner do Oilchange frequently I bet that owner also use Full Sintec because even with frequent changes re regular stuff dont do good job.
David
So here is my input. I recently put a 50k engine in my 2005 dodge durango with 116k and a blown head gasket, and a bad case of blow by. The oil was changes every 4k miles with either 5w30 regular oil or 5w30 part syn. It has the sludge monster 4.7 which I never believed was true because I thought it got the name from owners with a bad case of lack of maintenance. Well when I took the oil pan off my 116k mile engine I couldn’t believe how much sludge was in it. It was covered in baked on oil. Never overheated, never ran low on oil until it started burning oil about a quart every 100 miles(but I topped it off regularly). So my new 50k mile engine looked brand new inside. so since the 4.7 suffers from small oil ports that get clogged easily, I am now running 5w30 royal purple full synthetic oil in my truck. I am also still going to change it every 4k miles. And yes it costs $60 for the oil. And yes I will own another dodge, but not one with a 4.7 ever again. The other improvement I noticed with the royal purple is that the 4.7’s all have noisy hydraulic lifter on cold start ups, well since I changed to the royal purple the lifters clatter for maybe 10 seconds then the noise goes away, so I am also quite pleased with that. I haven’t noticed any improvement on gas mileage though, even thought royal purple users claim it helps, I’m still getting 10 mpg city on my 4.7. Thanks Eric, good vid!
Eric is completely correct. However I almost always use Fully Synthetic oil.
Under normal conditions a modern engine almost does not ware at all. Engines only ware when things get hard. For instance an overheating engine with synthetic will be more likely to survive. An engine with synthetic is more likely to survive running low on oil. It is less likely to sludge up. More likely to survive water in the oil. More likely to survive semi blocked or restrictions in oil passages or low oil pressure problems.Of course if you are the only driver of your car none of the above should ever happen.
I have however had problems moving old neglected engines over to synthetic oil. It may disturb the ecosystem.
The cheapest fully synthetic that matches the grade and code will do in my opinion.
[quote=”carattini” post=46032]Sorry Eric but I disagree:
Full Sintec Oils are so much better than regular Oil. I remember a Video you took of a Acura Adjusting Valve and you where impress about How clean and nice the engine wass. and you said because the owner do Oilchange frequently I bet that owner also use Full Sintec because even with frequent changes re regular stuff dont do good job.
David[/quote]
Hold on there, I never said conventional oil was better. What I did say was that if your engine is old and worn and you decide to run synthetic that those problems may get worse in the form of increased engine noise, more oil leaks, and possibly burning more oil.
Ok, so let me take this a step further by asking the following–What (if any) difference is there between lets say the “New Car” oil vs regular vs “High Mileage”? My ’91 Pathy has 204,xxx miles on it and I have used only the Castrol High-Mileage oil in it….is that any better/worse than the regular stuff? Also, can you touch upon the kinds of oil (5w-30 vs 10w-20 or whatever they may all be)? I think there is a vid out there describing them and if so, I can look for it/watch it after work (grr) tonight. Anyway, great vid! Oh, and who says that you have a minimum on “FACE TIME” per video???! HAHA Keep it going!
Michael
I have used both and again never got to the point where i had issues from a lubrication standpoint with a car.
I drive an 09 accord coupe 4 cyl which is notoriously easy on oil from a standpoint of it holding up to the mileage my maintenance minder givss me (about 7 to 8k till 15%)I think the only way to debunk anything is to use the oil you want to use for a few changes and then at your oil change send a sample to a place like blackstone labs…then gauge your oci from that or if it looks like a different weight/ brand would do better change to it and then run another sample after two changes(to make sure you got the residual out)
till you do that, and every engine driver is different, i dont think you can really argue the point either way
I use regular oil. most of the time whatever is on sale or convenient in 2 of my three vehicles. but theose two smoke like a trailer queen wearing a mumu in a double wide. My brother has a 95 Mustang with over 100k on it. he puts nothing but Royal Purple in it with a RP filter. but then he races his car. So i think not only do you have to consider the cost, age and mileage, but what you do with the car itself. If you have an ancient car with alot of miles on it and drive it like an every day average person i would say standard oil is fine. but if you are hard on your car, drifting corners at 80+mph, or launching for a 14.4 second quarter mile, sythetics might be your best bet. and if it leaks time to replace gaskets anyway.
Eric,
What is your take on “old”. I have two 2004 vehicles, my suburban ever since switching to syn has started leaking oil from the pan area. My accord does not. Do you think going back to Dino my actually benefit my tankurban. II change every 5k miles, regardless of type given a lot of our driving is short distance.
Pete
Thanks for the video Eric!
It’s good to listen to an expert giving the explanation for some things I have observed happening to my vehicle’s engine after changing the oil with a full synt.
In fact it’s indeed true that the engine has become more noisy; especially when it’s cold I can more clearly hear the distribution clicking.
And also the oil leak I have has worsened, in fact whenever I stop the car it leaves a small puddle of oil.
Still the engine , which has about 131000km does not consume oil, except the one that’s leaking.But I also use an anti-friction additive, the ZX1 extralube , and change the oil every 10000kms or less , along with the filter.
Engine seems to be very healty and I get very high MPG, constantly 55MPG of diesel, measured over each full tank.
One thing I always hear when talking about full synth vs regular is: “don’t put full synth into an (old) engine which always used regular oil because it will dislodge all the sludge and that sludge will obstruct oil passages and your engine will suffer and possibly seize”.
What I do to try and avoid this? (and please, I don’t claim it works, I have never disassembled an engine before and after so I don’t know if it works)
I change oil and filter two/three times in a row; first time I keep the oil for about 1000km, then change it again and keep it 5000kms.
Then again I change it and keep it say 8000-10000km.This is in the belief that very fresh oil (especially synt) will dissolve and put in circle all the sludge, and frequent changes will help expel all the dirt not giving it time to go around and re-aggregate into the oil passages.
But this is the belief of a diy weekend warrior, and I’d like to hear some eminent feedback from all the pros who read! 🙂
I look forward for your comments!
Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)
10nico
There is no science to support that synthetic is going to cause leaks or more noise. What seems, and seems to be proven more likely, is that the engine was sludged up and worn and basically that sludge was taken up all the space that your seals no longer did and then when synthetic, which is generally much higher in detergents, came in, it started cleaning up that sludge and eventually the seals were left on their own to do the job.
Switching to synthetic and getting leaks and noises generally tells you, your car was not well maintained.
I would like to know, what do you mean by “regular” oil. From what I was told by people, there are Synthetic oils, Semi-Synthetic oils and Mineral Oils. The go from SYNT- “water like” to Mineral with high density. SYNT oils have like 0W30, 0W40, 5W30 and so on, Semi Synthetics start with 10 and minerals with 15. So what is the “regular”?
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