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Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic is ran in both of my Csvt’s, Its what they used when they made them, and I see no reason to change to anything else.
I see it like this, in aviation they use straight mineral oil, the old timers say its just not worth spending the extra money. I still feel the same way, mostly. The Aeroshell is a good aviation oil but sludges up. Phillips 66 is alot cleaner but isn’t as wear protective. Oil/filter change every 10 hours. 15 or so on synthetic. AD oil is the term..
Anyways, I ran straight pennzoil for 50,000 on my 04 4.3 WT Silverado brand new. At 50 changed to RP and run it until 70 and didn’t like it. Switched to pennzoil high mileage and ran it until about 110 thousand. Then I decided that I wanted to switch over before the miles started creeping up on er, so I switched to pennzoil ultra. The first oil change was just normal really, no oil pressure change, engine sounded normal. At oil change, oil was dirty and only ran 5,000 miles. My engine seemed quiter, that little tick from the lifters/cam seemed eased, at lower rpms, they all do it?
I run Delo 15W-40 in my diesel, its better than the petrolium based Rotella. This is a very good dicussion. Very one has a story to tell lol.
Amsoil has the best name right now, its worth the money, 100 dollars on a oil change on a harley is ridiclous S:-o
Dueces T)
Thrasher
I use Mobil 1 sythentic with the mobil 1 oil filter. I too do alot of research on my products used for my vehicles.
The best site i have found for info on oils is http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php
Each to there own though C8-)
My car came factory with synthetic, it’s a must for turbocharged applications. It came with Mobil 1, since Mobil 1 has no shame in who they offer stupid low prices too to spread their product all over there in some vain attempt to claim superiority. Load bearing tests of Mobil 1 has shown excessive wear when compared to other oils. Of course Amsoil always receives outstanding marks and I also have no problem using Castrol., Quaker Sate, Valvoline, Red Line, Brad Penn, etc. They all do very well on UOAs.
However, my best experiences come from using Royal Purple, the UOAs are always excellent and their claims of micropolishing are true, I have a picture to prove it from my 98 GST.
My current 99 GSX came with horrible lifter ticking, the previous owner used nothing but Mobil 1. I simply switched to Royal Purple and with-in a few hundred miles the ticking became virtually non-existant. I have a before video, will go out and take an after video and then post them.
Here is the picture of the head from my 98 GST I bought it with 30K miles on it, switched to RP immediately and used it until 110K miles, when I parted it out. I subsequently kept that engine and put it in another car that is still running strong to this day at nearly 200K miles.
Ok well I can’t find it so I have to upload it again and post it when I find it on my other PC.
Here we go.
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/1640/2 … 702538.jpg
Hello fellow gear heads,
I have been using mobil one synthetic oil, transmission fluid and gear lubes since1992.Its been in every vehicle I’ve ever owned. I’m a firm believer of sythetics. They are test proven.they lubricate better.take the heat and cold better.They also extend service intervals.These fluids don’t break down like conventional fluids.actually I will be changing my trans
fluid,rear diff and power steering fluid this weekend.All using Mobil One synthetic Products. I’m pumped. Love those sytheticsI use Mobil 1 for my Civic because the maintenance has me changing the oil about every 8000 miles.
Used to use a Motocraft Synthetic blend in a Ford Ranger I used to own and noticed a big improvement with cold weather starting as the engine turned over much quicker.
I also noticed that my Civic calls for ATF Z1 transmission fluid but it is not readily available anymore as Honda changed to a synthetic formula called ATF DW1.
In my van I use valvoline MaxLife ATF fluid that is synthetic and I think it shifts much smoother.
I would like to try valvoline’s synthetic motor oil has anyone tried it?
I think synthetics are worth it if you have a well maintained vehicle. You might be wasting your money if it is a beater car and you aren’t the first owner. The conventional oils today have a lot better additive packs than they did years ago. I do worry about vehicles that claim to come from the factory with synthetics – If I bought a new car I would definitely drain the oil and run some cheap junk in it for a little bit before putting in synthetics. But on the other hand, you don’t know if the engine was properly broken in and then the manufacturer put in synthetic.
Mobil 1 is a good “go to” oil because it is available everywhere
I’ve been happy with Amsoil products – always performed well.
I’ve had good luck with Redline’s gear oils, and ATFs no experience with their engine oils.
I haven’t tried Royal Purple yet. Some people swear by it, other avoid it like the plague. So I don’t know who to believe. They do however, make (well champion anyways) THE best oil filter out there – super high quality. I might try it some day though and do a UOA. Hey SpawnedX, do you have any links to some nice UOAs for RP?
If I use conventional I think Castrol or Mobil Super is a good choice.
I’ve never tried the RP oil filters, I’ve run the K&N filters on all my trucks for quite a while now (2 of them are the same which I like). Heard alot of good things about the MB1 filters as well. I changed my oil on my 04 4.3 on regular pennzoil high mileage (before I started running syn). At class we were cutting open oil filters so I cut mine open and seen maybe two shinies in the media so I was very relieved since I drive the hell out of it, 3 thousand miles on the oil btw.
I’ll soon be changing my diff oil on my SS to either RP or Amsoil, i haven’t made my mind up. Autozone has the RP in stock, have to order the Amsoil
Thrasher
@Third Gear, I don’t, I send my oil out once or twice a year for a UOA to check the health of my engine. I will probably do one before the end of the winter and post it up. Right now I have barely 600 miles on this oil change, so it’s not time yet, lol.
Also, I use strictly Red Line fluids for transmission, transfer case and rear differential. I swear by them, and not only do I swear by them, but the performance transmission builder for my particular car of choice (you may have heard of him his name is John Shepherd) recommends it as well. So do the other transmission rebuilders for my car of choice.
http://www.sheptrans.com/faqs/index.htm
[quote]What gear oil should I use?
There are several gear oils that will work depending on horsepower or intended use. For most transmissions we recommend Redline MT90 or Pennzoil Synchromesh. For drag use or high horsepower cars please contact us. Please let us know if you need any Redline gear oil.[/quote]http://www.teamrip.com/manual_transmiss … _info.html
http://www.teamrip.com/transfer_case_hy … _info.html
http://www.teamrip.com/rear_axle_hypoid … _info.html
What ever type of oil the car has been using, stick to that one. Synthetic oils are good and I would use them if the car I have had been using them from the beginning. If it’s a high mileage car, I would think twice about using synthetics since they are thinner.
I have been wondering for a long time about this, I still run conventional oil in my trucks engine and tranny, my question is this, can I start using synthetic oils in them both?
I am going to say something that will probably be attacked, but the whole idea of not being able to switch to synthetics in higher mileage cars or after a certain time is all hogwash. Those weight ratings on synthetic are measured against the same standard as the one’s on the dinosaur oil.
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