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Synthetic Oil Change

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  • #667847
    Jeffrey HumphreyJeffrey Humphrey
    Participant

      Going to be changing the oil on my 2010 Kia Soul + using Royal Purple 5w20. What is everyone’s opinion on Polydyn TX7? In general and in combination with Royal Purple/my vehicle?

    Viewing 8 replies - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
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    • #667849
      Andrew PhillipsAndrew Phillips
      Participant

        Before I offer my opinion, I just want to say that I have never used it. With that said, my personal belief and opinion after working on engines for nearly 40 years says not to put any kind of treatment, stop leak, or coating product in the oil. The only thing that should go in there is oil (yes, I put ATF in sometimes, but ATF is also oil itself). Likewise the only thing that should go in the trans, brakes, power steering, etc., is the proper fluid. Not meaning any disrespect to the maker of Polydyn TX7, but many of these types of things are just snake oil anyway, and some can actually cause harm.

        #667858
        RickRick
        Participant

          [quote=”cap269″ post=140622]Before I offer my opinion, I just want to say that I have never used it. With that said, my personal belief and opinion after working on engines for nearly 40 years says not to put any kind of treatment, stop leak, or coating product in the oil. The only thing that should go in there is oil (yes, I put ATF in sometimes, but ATF is also oil itself). Likewise the only thing that should go in the trans, brakes, power steering, etc., is the proper fluid. Not meaning any disrespect to the maker of Polydyn TX7, but many of these types of things are just snake oil anyway, and some can actually cause harm.[/quote]

          +1

          #667872
          wafrederickwafrederick
          Participant

            There are engines that require synthetic oil.Some GMs use Mobil 1 synthetic only and GM is real picky on oil now.Starting in 2011 it has been required that GM vehicles use dexos approved oil only,engine warranty void if not used.The 3 valve 5.4 Fords,5w20 synthetic has to be used only.The lifters rattle like crazy if not used.My father’s 2015 Chevy 3500 HD with the duramax diesel uses Mobil 1 synthetic only.Some aftermarket warranties,you can’t do the oil changes yourself.Have to take it to a commercial oil change place and keep the receipts.

            #667877
            Andrew PhillipsAndrew Phillips
            Participant

              [quote=”wafrederick” post=140645]There are engines that require synthetic oil.Some GMs use Mobil 1 synthetic only and GM is real picky on oil now.Starting in 2011 it has been required that GM vehicles use dexos approved oil only,engine warranty void if not used.The 3 valve 5.4 Fords,5w20 synthetic has to be used only.The lifters rattle like crazy if not used.My father’s 2015 Chevy 3500 HD with the duramax diesel uses Mobil 1 synthetic only.Some aftermarket warranties,you can’t do the oil changes yourself.Have to take it to a commercial oil change place and keep the receipts.[/quote]
              You do realize that “synthetic oil” still starts out as crude oil, right? It’s just a different blend, more refined, and different additive packages. My comment still stands as I replied previously.

              https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-maintenance/learn-about-motor-oil-facts/synthetic-oil-vs-conventional-oil

              #667883
              wafrederickwafrederick
              Participant

                [quote=”cap269″ post=140650][quote=”wafrederick” post=140645]There are engines that require synthetic oil.Some GMs use Mobil 1 synthetic only and GM is real picky on oil now.Starting in 2011 it has been required that GM vehicles use dexos approved oil only,engine warranty void if not used.The 3 valve 5.4 Fords,5w20 synthetic has to be used only.The lifters rattle like crazy if not used.My father’s 2015 Chevy 3500 HD with the duramax diesel uses Mobil 1 synthetic only.Some aftermarket warranties,you can’t do the oil changes yourself.Have to take it to a commercial oil change place and keep the receipts.[/quote]
                You do realize that “synthetic oil” still starts out as crude oil, right? It’s just a different blend, more refined, and different additive packages. My comment still stands as I replied previously.

                https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-maintenance/learn-about-motor-oil-facts/synthetic-oil-vs-conventional-oil%5B/quote%5D
                GM has been using Mobil one for years.It is used in the Corvettes,Some Cadillacs and newer Camaros saying on the oil cap.Have had a Ford with a V10 in for lifter noises and was not bad lifters.The customer had an extended warranty and the dealership found the wrong type oil was used.It used synthetic and an oil change fixed it using synthetic oil which it calls for.Chrysler 5.7 hemis with the MDS,5w20 oil only also.Wrong grade oil screws up the actuator for the MDS and makes the car run like crap.Chrysler put out a TSB on this.

                #667895
                MikeMike
                Participant

                  To the original question, I don’t recommend using any oil additive, no matter what the name or the claims are.

                  Modern engine oils are near-magical in their qualities. They are one of the reasons modern engines run so clean for so long with such little wear. Besides, the OP is already using synthetic oil. It certainly doesn’t need to be fortified with a can of mystery milk. The only thing any additive is guaranteed to do is lighten your wallet.

                  #667903
                  James O'HaraJames O’Hara
                  Participant

                    I have used oil additives in a lot of my families vehicles and my own. In my experience most of them are not worth it.

                    Here is what I have done and why.

                    Slick50 Engine treatment. Only use on a brand new engine. The silicone which is the slick part melts inside the oil and is pumped through the system when hot,. when it cools it forms a layer of silicone so on engine start-up it wears on the silicone and does not cause initial start up bearing wear as much. You can only do this on a new engine because it sticks to everything and if there is crud in it it can fully clog oil passages. With the newer engines and the smaller oil passages this may be a no no on low weight oils.

                    Lucas power steering oil. This has has solved my brothers power steering leaks as it has a stop leak aspect to it. once again this can plug things but, has not caused issues.

                    Lucas oil treatment – lasted for 1 month before not helping anymore in my diesel. I added it because i was getting camshaft wear. it helped coat things better but, lost affect after 1 month due to heat breaking it down. This has a viscosity modifier in it and can actually damage components by not allowing cool oil to get to components etc.

                    Liqui Molly – Super Diesel Additive This is a cetane booster for diesel engines it helps to burn hotter to burn carbon buildup off of pistons, valves, and clean injector nozzles and fuel lines. Helps break down collections of wax throughout the system. Cetane by nature is slightly acidic which means used to many times it can eat metal.

                    Slick 50 – Fuel system treatment – Cleans the fuel system and helps break down geling that causes sticky injectors and poor fuel flow. In order to do this it has to be slightly acidic in nature or bind to particles forming larger particles which could cause a clog.

                    Chevron – Techron Fuel system treatment – Cleans the fuel system and helps break down geling that causes sticky injectors and poor fuel flow. In order to do this it has to be slightly acidic in nature or bind to particles forming larger particles which could cause a clog.

                    Liqui Moly – Oil Additive – MoS2 friction modifier that is attracted to heat and binds with friction surfaces. Creates a layer of film to protect the metal. This is different the lucas as it is a solid friction modifier Molybdenum disulfide it is used in a lot of different greases and will actually wear its way into the metal and make it slicker on the surface. This has fairly large particles which would easily clog a small oil passage engine.

                    There are some things on the market which are no more then just denatured alcohol. Other things do actually do stuff but, they have to be used with care extreme car and can damage an engine and/or other components very easily. I do not recommend anyone use these products without thorough thorough research and knowledge of exactly how they work and knowledge of exactly what is going on inside your engine.

                    None of these were added to a properly functioning engine. They were only added to address problems i had narrowed down with diagnostics and actual testing of components before use. I also made sure my engine could handle all of the products before i used them by scouring the internet. I also made sure of how they work by scouring the inter web and looking up exact ingredients then looking up what each individual ingredient does and how it interacts with the other ingredients and the stuff in the system normally. It takes hours if not days to figure that stuff out let alone the diagnostic sides.

                    Basically if it ain’t broke do not fix it. Royal Purple by itself contains such an extremely good additive package especially if the synthetic I do not believe you would need to add anything else. Unless you have an intimate knowledge of something wrong and an intimate knowledge of the additive I do not recommend ever using an additive. In most cases an additive will only act as a band-aid and will not fix the route problem. It is also not meant for major issues only minors much like a single band aid is not going to help a severed arm. Along with that you need the right additive for the right job much like a band aid will not help a broken arm or a rotting tooth.

                    What it comes down to is basically don’t use an additive. If you have noise there is a reason and it needs to be addressed. If you are trying to impregnate the metal of the engine with some kind of friction modifier it is too late the car is too old. It needed to be done from the get go.

                    Polydyn TX7 is just 60 weight oil. All it is going to do is sludge up your engine by changing the viscosity of your oil and probably damage things and wear out your oil pump. I also love how it does not state what is in it. This is a huge red flag to me. Stick with just straight oil. Also all those claims for racing cars etc I got news for you they normally tear down and rebuild each engine after each race or the max of 3-4 races/passes on the drag strip. It quotes TFE Bonding.

                    Wikipedia – Tetrafluoroethylene It is probably silicone just like slick 50 aka only to be used on a new engine because of it sludging up oil passages from previous deposits.

                    So my advice is your engine is not new do not use it.

                    #667933
                    Douglas HaynesDouglas Haynes
                    Participant

                      [quote=”Evil-i” post=140668]To the original question, I don’t recommend using any oil additive, no matter what the name or the claims are.

                      Modern engine oils are near-magical in their qualities. They are one of the reasons modern engines run so clean for so long with such little wear. Besides, the OP is already using synthetic oil. It certainly doesn’t need to be fortified with a can of mystery milk. The only thing any additive is guaranteed to do is lighten your wallet.[/quote]

                      +1

                      Use good oil ad nothing else.

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