Suzuki ignis 1.5 4grip non starting

[Luke Robinson]

Hi my names Luke, Whent out to my mum and dads car yesterday morning, wouldnt start, just either clicking or would turn slowly and dash lights just go off.

Checked voltage and was 12.3 volts, so used my battery tester and come back at 11.9 under load which according to the one i have (mac tools) it says thats good, so put the battery on charge and the voltage is 13.49 volts now and the load is 12.3 so my next question.

If the starter is gone can it cause a massive drain on the battery?

Kind Regards Luke

Topic

[college man]

The starter is a High amp component. It does take alot
of good solid power to turn that + the engine. Check all
your cables are clean and tight. Try using jumper cables
to start the car.If the car does start correctly.I would
suspect your battery.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems

[Luke Robinson]

I even tried starting it from my boost pack (snap on 1700 portable) and ive started 7.5 ton wagons with that, and i put the boost pack on but still no go?

I have just tried again battery charged with fully charged boost pack getting 12.65 volts when hooked up, during cranking voltage goes down to 11.60 volts and getting whisps of smoke from around hand brake area which i believe is from starter, was also getting whisps of smoke from behind dash clocks but with the lights going on and off i believe its just dust and the lights going on and off.

cheers Luke

[college man]

Check for 12v right at the starter. If seen starter is
suspect and should be pulled.

[Luke Robinson]

Hi removed starter and tested it on the bench with said boost pack and the alternator drained the boost pack within a couple of minutes?

So i presumed the starter is gone so got one and installed and still no go, getting 11-11.30 volts at starter when cranking and also getting 12volts at alternator when ignition turned on?

cheers Luke

[Matt Brandsema]

The fact that you are getting 12 volts at the starter solenoid tells me that the ignition switch wiring is good up to the starter. Do a voltage drop test on your positive and negative battery cables to the starter and see how much voltage drop you are getting.

[Luke Robinson]

getting 12.4volts at battery when cranking getting 11-11.3 volts at starter so 1.1 volts is the voltage drop then?

[Matt Brandsema]

[quote=”lukey1″ post=83319]getting 12.4volts at battery when cranking getting 11-11.3 volts at starter so 1.1 volts is the voltage drop then?[/quote]

You need to put one lead on one end of the connection being tested and the other lead on the other end. So for example, put one lead on the + battery terminal and the other lead where the + wire connects to the starter. Then, monitor the voltage WHILE cranking. This will let you know if that particular connection is bad. Anything over 0.2 volts is excessive voltage drop indicating the connection needs repair. To do the ground side, just put one lead on the – battery terminal and the other lead on the starter housing. (As the starter is grounded through its housing.)

I made a video about this actually.

[Luke Robinson]

positive side when ignition on (pos on starter and battery) -0.00 volts then when cranking is 0.18 volts, neg side so starter housing and neg side on battery with ignition on jumps to 0.40 volts but settles down to 0.00 and when cranking 8.46 volts

[Matt Brandsema]

0.18 is a bit high but I doubt it would cause a no-start condition. My guess is that the battery is bad. I would get a proper load tester and test the battery. They will do it for free at any auto parts place.

[Luke Robinson]

i have tested load and it come back at 11.3 which is bad according to mine but ive had that battery on and another battery connected up with jump leads and the boost pack connected and still the same condition, how ever there is now no clicking from the new starter now

[Matt Brandsema]

[quote=”lukey1″ post=83331]i have tested load and it come back at 11.3 which is bad according to mine but ive had that battery on and another battery connected up with jump leads and the boost pack connected and still the same condition, how ever there is now no clicking from the new starter now[/quote]

Hmm I am running out of ideas here. So let me recap.

-The starter is new
-The no-start condition still occurred even when hooking up a good battery
-The starter solenoid is getting power when attempting to crank.
-Voltage drop on negative side is good
-Voltage drop on positive side is 0.18 V.

Perhaps we should go back to the 0.18 V voltage drop you had. Inspect the connections of the positive cable as well as the connections on the battery itself! In fact, just go right ahead and clean up all the connections. I once had a very similar condition with a Sonata, even when hooking up an outside battery it would not start and it turned out being the connections on the battery terminals. If those are bad, hooking up another battery wont do anything.

[EDIT: Any by “cleaning up connections” I mean, disconnect them, clean with a wire brush thoroughly and then reconnect.]

[Bill]

By the way you explain the smoke as well as the no start I would say the you have a very poor ground somewhere. Sounds like it’s grounding through the body grounds. Clamp a booster cable to the neg. cable on the battery and the engine block and try to crank it.

[Author]

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