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Hi everyone. I am a long time follower of ETCG and his Youtube Channels, and first time poster here in the forums.
I have gotten advice in many things with this issue and I am trying to find the best way to go regarding my truck.
I have a 98 Chevy K1500 Z71 with the 5.7L Vortec V8 under the hood and the 4L60E transmission. I drove it daily and it shifted fine and never slipped. One day, I drove the truck and noticed it started to slip real bad in 3rd and 4th. I stopped at my destination and checked the ATF level, and it was not registering on the dipstick despite going through all the gears for three seconds. I added ATF Fluid (almost two quarts) and then it registered normally on the dipstick. I had never seen any leaks under the truck no matter where I parked it. Even driving around, it never leaked. The strange thing is, I checked the level about two weeks before and it was registering as normal on the dipstick.
Adding Fluid did not fix the problem. At the beginning, it was shifting into third, would rev up to about 4000 revs, and then lock into gear and proceed as normal. Then it would start to slip in Overdrive.
What it does now is completely slip in 3rd, and I dont think it even goes fast enough to get to overdrive. It will start off in first normally and shift to and drive in second normally. Then, when it shifts into third, and the revs jump up to 4000 Revs. If you hold the accelerator down with the revs at 4000, the speed of the truck will continue to increase but its slow. Again, I havent tried to push it farther to get it to shift into overdrive. I can drive the truck with the selector in 2nd, but I cant go faster than 40 MPH.
I have been told that it could be line pressure being held back due to a clogged filter. I know this is the cheapest way to go in the start because the filter is only $9 at Autozone, plus a few quarts of ATF. However, I was also told this could be a bad shift solenoid, and the worst case, the transmission 3-4 clutch packs (which tend to be a common failure on the 4L60E).
I have called around for prices and a good reputable shop will do it for up to $2000. The lowest price I found is $800, but I have found extremely mixed reviews on this shop, and am not sure I want to take the truck to them.
What do you, the members of the Stay Dirty Lounge, think of this? Should I even try to replace that filter to see if it fixes it and allows it to drive, or should I just break down and see if I can take it to a transmission shop to have em do the rebuild? I honestly don’t think its a solenoid, because it is completing the shift, but it just slips. As a final question, do transmission shops allow payment plans for the $2000? I know I cant pay all that up front at once.
Any assistance is appreciated.
Thanks!
Pete
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Replies
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First not good you were 2 quarts low. Fluid discolored or smell?
You could drop the pan and change the fluid and filter. check to
see if the pan is loaded with metal or gunk. if it is stop there
and take it to a shop.I think your transmission is getting ready to take a dirt nap. The low fluid level could have contributed to the problem but if it has high milage it’s ready for a rebuild. They don’t last forever.
Personally i think you’re wasting your money on a fluid/filter change. I’m not an expert but it sounds like a problem with worn out clutches or broken clutch drum.
Perhaps you could find a good used trans. Make sure it has a reasonable warranty on it.
In my very humble opinion, i would probably not pay anyone to rebuild it, unless you upgraded the clutch packs, and added a shift improvement kit. it will shift harder and wear the clutches out less.
But a better option if you are on a pretty strict budget like yours truly would be a bone yard trans. Just find a Chevy with a compatible trans, and purchase it. Most bone yards will honor the deal, if it doesn’t work they will swap it for you. Before you install it in your ride, drain it and check for metal shavings on the magnet in the pan. “if i has one” also check to see if the fluid that comes out is milky. I would also make sure the lines that run to the cooler are not obstructed. Would be a shame to burn up your “new” trans. But the most cost effective is bone yard! Put it in yourself of course, 0 labor cost is always the way to go. While you are picking it out. BE PICKY, there are millions of these trucks on the road and more than a few have met an untimely end do to a wreck or whatever, so the lower miles on it the better. have a good one. I just really don’t trust “rebuild” places. Personally I have had bad experiences with them in the past. So anything I can do myself I do. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying all rebuild places are crap. There are probably many, many, many, good ones out there for every 1 bad one. But my luck is I always seem to get the bad one. 🙁 “And” if you are feeling adventurous you can rebuild your OLD trans With upgraded parts in your spare time, and at your convenience, Just get a good step by step manual on your trans, and take your time.Check cooler lines, granted it’s a different model, but friend of mine had a 96 9C1 Caprice (4L60E), one of his lines rusted out, blew, and first thing to go was 4th…except his just went neutral instead of hitting 4th. 1 rebuilt transmission later…
Throwing spaghetti at the wall…
+1 to everyone’s post thus far.
I would at least try the filter and fluid as that still would be cheaper than a used trans.
Is there a CEL on for any trans codes?
You really can’t guess here. If you have a transmission problem it CAN be diagnosed without throwing parts at it. Solenoids can be tested, pressures can be checked, and when you’re done you’ll have a VERY good idea of what the issue is. Unfortunately, transmission diagnosis is usually beyond the DIY due to the cost of the specialized tools that are often involved. That said, I’d recommend you take it in to have it properly diagnosed before you do anything. If you find the transmission to be bad, I’d recommend you get a replacement if you’re going to do it yourself. If the rebuild comes with a warranty and is cheaper, you might consider that option in stead. This is one of those times where a little money spent on diagnosis can go a long way toward a successful repair.
And a little money spent is what helped here. I found a good reputable Transmission shop here and took it to them. The guy was really cool and very fair. I got the truck back about 3 days ago and it is running great.
According to him, it was the 3/4 clutches that were the problem. He went ahead and rebuilt the entire thing and even upgraded some things like the Sun Shell and others. I went ahead and had him do the fluids in the Rear/Front Diffs, the Transfer Case and the Rear Main Seal on the engine. $1675 is how much I spent and got a three year warranty.
Wrench Turner: I tried not to drive it, but when I had to (plus when I had to drive it to the Trans Shop), I had it in second per the website.
Skippy: I have 196,000 miles on it. It arrived at the trans shop with 196,035 Miles.
Hellraiser: I had not seen anything leaking at the transmission or at the front of the truck, so I believe the lines are good. 3 days after the rebuild, it has been doing great with no leaks.
Dreamer: No CEL Codes…the only one a P0420 and P0430 code. Those are catalyst codes though, so nothing related. I had considered replacing the filter and fluid, but I had spoken with other shops and specialists (and your everyday home mechanic) and while it MAY fix it, its not guarenteed. I finally decided that with the amount of miles on it and the possibility that it was abused up to 186,000 miles (when I bought it), It would be best to do a rebuild.
Thanks to everyone’s suggestions and tips. I really appreciate it. +1 to all for the assistance!
Yes it was. Especially for the warranty.
They even cleaned up the case and looks like they slapped some paint on it!
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