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My friend just bought a used (67K miles) 1999 Subaru Forester and the CarFax (and salesman) said there were no mechanical issues. But it doesn’t seem to want to go into Drive. That is, she shifts it and can hear the engine rev when she pushes on the peddle, but it takes a while for the car to engage. If is has too much acceleration at that point, it jumps (so does she). It goes fine into reverse. Googling found many links describing this issue with various solutions and costs. They ranged from putting in a $6 additive (Trans-X) to repairing the transmission ($2000).
My question is – there appears to be two kinds of Trans-X, a “Slip – leak fix” bottle and a “Treatment” bottle which also says it is a slip and leak fix. Which one should she use? Does she need to drain some Transmission fluid out first (we took the subaru to Oil Can Henry’s and they said the AT fluid was full and pink (new)? Would the be any harm to a more permanent fix later, if the additive was put in now?
Is a “Permanent” fix just a seal replacement (estimated cost?) or full transmission fix?
The car runs fine once moving and also goes in reverse fine. It’s just the initial engagement into drive that seems to be the problem.
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First things first. Check the level of your transmission fluid and make sure there is no air in the system. Also, at what point is it recommended to change the fluid/filter? At 67K miles, it’s not likely that the transmission has failed, but again it is used so you don’t always have the maintenance records. If you were to try an additive, GMSyncromesh is often the one people speak most highly of. But first check your fluid levels and it’s condition. A nice see through red is what you want (usually)
I’m sorry I wasn’t clear that we had taken it to Oil Can Henry’s who verified that the fluid levels were full and “new” – pink. You didn’t mention if fluid has to be removed if 16 oz. of additive is put it – to keep the total fluild oz the same?
Looking up GMSyncromesh it seems it is a Manual transmission fluid. It sounds like you are suggesting draining the current automatic transmission fluid and replacing it with GMSyncromesh manual transmission fluid – is that your suggestion?
There is both automatic and manual as far as I remember (but GM may only be manual and other brands have the automatic).
If you were to add any additive, you would have to drain some fluid out. You could do this by a siphon down through the dipstick.
BEFORE you do this though, let’s try to think of what else could be a problem.
1) Some transmissions have a vacuum hose to the transmission, so look for one and make sure it’s clean/not cracked (good idea to check all of them anyway considering the age of the car).
2) Also, look at all your electrical connectors and make sure there is no fouling around them.
3) Check the shift lever cable and make sure it moves freely.
4) is the correct fluid in there (I believe DexIII). If you want to change your fluid, I’d advise DexVI, as this fluid is far superior and can correct some transmission shifting issues.
All these are likely to be fine, but diagnose completely before trying something.
KingMeander, Thank you for your suggestions. I’m sorry I wasn’t clear that this issue with the Subaru Shifting and fix suggestions are all over the internet. The problem is a seal going bad. The solutions posted are simple – adding Trans-X (but not mentioning which Trans-X product), to intermediate (replacing the seal) to really expensive (replacing the transmission).
My questions were about which Trans-X product might be better as they both the “Fix” and the “Treatment” products indicate leak fixing properties. Then I was wondering about just putting 16 oz or so of additive in without taking anything out. You suggested removing some fluid first.
My last question was about the efficacy of just replacing the seals.
Note that the car drives fine once it gets going. It is just that transition from backing out of the garage or parking space (after sitting) to going forward. That is, going from reverse into drive after the car has been stopped for while.
My friend will take her car into the shop tomorrow and I was hoping she could get some “pre-information” rather than accept anything the mechanic will tell her (like it needs a full transmission replacement rather than just a seal replacement or maybe some some transmission additive).
Hold up. If you just bought the vehicle and it’s 30 days or less, take it back to where you got it from. Don’t mess with it. If you do before you take it back, you may void any warranty you might have and you might be stuck with it.
Second, if you have a transmission problem it’s not likely you’re going to fix it with a bottle. With internal transmission failures, they either need to be rebuilt or replaced. I don’t recommend a novice do this because of the special tools and experience required to do the work. Everyday mechanics don’t often do the work, they normally send them off to specialists to do that work.
More information here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-transmission-problems
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