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I know this is probably a stupid question, but where do I look to find out which brand spark plug to use? After watching some of Eric’s and other videos they suggest using the same brand spark plugs the manufacturer does when you change them.
How do I find that out without buying them at the dealership? I need to replace them in at least two cars now and in another 13000 miles I will in a third car as well. I’m leery of removing the spark plugs in the engines before I have the replacements in-case I damage them somehow.
I’ve spent almost $1100 in the last two weeks on one car at the mechanic and just dropped the other off for work at the dealership that’ll be another $500 so I’m trying to change the plugs myself and save a little money.
Specifically I am looking for plugs for:
2004 Toyota Camry LE 4 Cylinder
2011 Ford Fusion SE 4 Cylinder
and
2010 Mini Cooper S hatchback (R56)Any help or a nudge in the right direction will be greatly appreciated.
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Denso for the Toyota
Motocraft for the Fusion
Bosch for the mini cooper and you will need a different plug socket for the mini it is a 12 point socket either a 12 or 14 mm but I don’t remember since I don’t work on those a lot.just becareful if you have never dont it before… you dont want to brke the spark plug in iside the head… uselly do it ater running the car a bit and having it warm would help… 4v uselly are easy to access them… just make sure you get a spark plug socket and have the right gap… I would also recommand puting some anti-seise on it and di-ectltric greese and take picture of how it is wired when you replace wires and lable them in order
[quote=”gmule” post=171577]Denso for the Toyota
Motocraft for the Fusion
Bosch for the mini cooper and you will need a different plug socket for the mini it is a 12 point socket either a 12 or 14 mm but I don’t remember since I don’t work on those a lot.[/quote]The OE plug for the Toyota is not Denso, but NGK Laser Iridium IFR6T-11 (4589). Toyota uses both Denso and NGK for OEM, this one was NGK. But Denso does make a compatible plug (SK20R11).
The OE plug for the Fusion is Motorcraft Iridium SP-530. You can use Autolite XP5364 also, Autolite manufactures the Motorcraft plugs.
The OE plug for the Cooper is not Bosch, but NGK Laser Iridium ILZKBR7A-8G (5992). It does require a 14mm 12-point deep socket. BMW/Cooper uses both Bosch and NGK for OEM, this one was also NGK. Bosch does have an equivalent (ZR7SI332S).
A good way to find out your OEM plugs is to look in the vehicle owner’s manual in the maintenance section. If you don’t have the owner’s manual, many of them are available online as PDFs. You can also call the dealership parts department and ask for the part number of the OE plug, then cross-reference the OEM number at parts house websites like http://www.napaonline.com.
your lucky you got 4 cylinder vehicles because that’s less $ when you buy the plugs.
Ya know the best way is to carefully remove the plugs then take them up to the store and match them up.
It’s so much easier with a magnetic spark plug socket and extension bar.
As mentioned, the original plugs are the safest route to make sure they work on your newer cars.
I tend to use NGK, have had good results with them compared to Champion and Bosch. I don’t have any comparison to Denso or Autolite?Its not a stupid question because the parts stores put “improper” plugs on the market claiming they “fit”. They don’t function in the car properly and misfire.
The other thing about spark plugs is that they only really get changed every 100,000 miles. So it’s something you have to do without “over doing” it; Just follow the make’s engineer’s recommendations. if it doesn’t say anti seize then don’t add it.
[quote=”maxiitech” post=171732]Its not a stupid question because the parts stores put “improper” plugs on the market claiming they “fit”. They don’t function in the car properly and misfire.
The other thing about spark plugs is that they only really get changed every 100,000 miles. So it’s something you have to do without “over doing” it; Just follow the make’s engineer’s recommendations. if it doesn’t say anti seize then don’t add it.[/quote]
I agree on using OEM plugs, but check the owners manual for service intervals. Many cars recommend changing spark plugs more frequently than 100,000 miles. My wifes’ 2012 Kia Optima SX 2.0 Turbo recommends changing plugs at 45,000 miles, and the Denso Iridium plugs are around $13/each.
I don’t agree with the statement not to use anti seize. I use anti seize, just a bit on the threads, and make sure not to get it on the ceramic as it does conduct electricity.what a PITN to have to worry about that at just 45,000 miles.
Check out NGK.com and you’ll see why they don’t recommend anti-seize. NGK claims that the Nickel plugs won’t ever get seized in the block.
Use a long bar to break them loose.
Thanks everyone for your replies.
The part’s stores list Bosch as OEM for the Mini but everyone I have asked has recommended the NGK Laser Iridium.
I did buy the 14mm 12 point spark plug socket with a rubber thing and magnet in it and ordered the NGK plugs to be here tomorrow. I asked the mechanic that I take the Mini to (he is a former BMW/Mini Master certified tech that now owns a shop specializing in BMW/Mini) and he offered to show me how to change them if I wanted but i’d feel really shitty (excuse the language) asking him to teach me how to do something that will basically be me doing it and not paying him to do it, if that makes sense.
The Toyota is my Aunt’s and I think my cousin and I will be replacing the coils and plugs so we’ll do that together.
The Fusion…ugh I don’t know where to start there. It has 144160 miles on the clock and had a few open recalls. I asked them to go ahead and do the 150,000 mile service so the tech would at least get some decent pay out of it. They called me and said something about both front control arms would have to be replaced because of a broken cover and and something being sealed and they can’t repair it. I take the blame for lack of details. I generally have an overnight schedule so when he called at 2:00PM I was asleep. They said that would be about $700 and a tire (rear) was dry rotted and I always replace in two so I asked for that. I had expected a total bill of $1200ish.
I went to pick the Fusion up about 7:45 this morning and was given a bill for $2,236.72. They ended up repairing the control arms [707.50] and doing the requisite 4 wheel alignment [169.95], mounted and balanced the two new tires [313.90] and as part of the “150,000 mile service” did a tune-up [143.79], complete fuel injection cleaning [189.95], oil change (1200 miles before it was due) [56.48], coolant flush [154.95], transmission flush (which I knew would happen) [214.95], replaced the cabin air filter [65.24] and the kicker I had asked them to install 2 new headlight bulbs I had bought because theirs suck. The labor for the headlights alone was $123.76.
So needless to say that was a little bit of a shock when I was given the bill.
I have to take it back to have the alignment redone because the car pulls to the left. If I get on a flat road, in the center of the three lanes (each direction) and take my hand off of the steering wheel I’ll be in the left lane within 50 feet. I’m sure they’ll redo that for free, since it has less than 20 miles on the alignment.
I know the prices are pretty high (like the $715.00 water pump I paid for last week for the Mini and the $370 pressure diverter valve for the turbocharger waste gate I had to pay the week before).
I’m hopeful now that all of the preventative maintenance and required repairs are taken care of for a while. I’ve been watching all of the ECTG and ChrisFix videos to learn some of the stuff so that I can do it myself. I’m a little limited for the under-car work because of a spinal cord injury but my cousin is really good about doing that part of it so I don’t have to try and get under the car and all of that jazz. When we changed my aunt’s oil he did the draining of the oil and changing of the filter and I poured the new oil in up top and checked the other fluids.
I have learned the process for the Mini oil change and it’s not too bad other than removing the coolant expansion tank to access the filter cap.
Sorry for the off-topic part.
At least I don’t have to worry about the spark plugs in the Fusion anymore lol
I do appreciate all of y’alls help and suggestions.
[quote=”451Mopar” post=171803][quote=”maxiitech” post=171732]Its not a stupid question because the parts stores put “improper” plugs on the market claiming they “fit”. They don’t function in the car properly and misfire.
The other thing about spark plugs is that they only really get changed every 100,000 miles. So it’s something you have to do without “over doing” it; Just follow the make’s engineer’s recommendations. if it doesn’t say anti seize then don’t add it.[/quote]
I agree on using OEM plugs, but check the owners manual for service intervals. Many cars recommend changing spark plugs more frequently than 100,000 miles. My wifes’ 2012 Kia Optima SX 2.0 Turbo recommends changing plugs at 45,000 miles, and the Denso Iridium plugs are around $13/each.
I don’t agree with the statement not to use anti seize. I use anti seize, just a bit on the threads, and make sure not to get it on the ceramic as it does conduct electricity.[/quote]Honestly the Mini’s Owner’s Manual has almost no information on servicing. It says what viscosity oil to use and that the brake fluid is DOT 4 and that’s pretty much else. They say the maintenance is determined by the onboard computer’s CBS (Condition Based Services) system. So I have the coolant flushed when it tells me to. They even say to change the oil every 15,000 to 20,000 miles when the light comes on but I am sticking to a 5000 mile interval with Mobile 1 (thinking of switching to Pentosin or Liqui-Molly but I need to research). I am going to have an oil analysis done by Blackstone Labs when I do the next oil change and may treat it with Cera-Tec.
The Mini has just under 87,000 miles on it so I am not in a rush to change the plugs but I want to make sure I have everything and know how to do it.
[quote=”maxiitech” post=171949]what a PITN to have to worry about that at just 45,000 miles.
Check out NGK.com and you’ll see why they don’t recommend anti-seize. NGK claims that the Nickel plugs won’t ever get seized in the block.
Use a long bar to break them loose.[/quote]
I guess my age is showing. Seems there is a lot of different opinion on the anti-seize question on spark plugs. I found where NGK mentioned it was optional, but to reduce the install torque.
My experience with sticking threads in aluminum heads, was over 20-years ago with Champion spark plugs. I have used the High temp silver anti-seize on the spark plugs since then. I hate fixing heads with striped spark plug holes.
[quote=”451Mopar” post=171997][quote=”maxiitech” post=171949]what a PITN to have to worry about that at just 45,000 miles.
Check out NGK.com and you’ll see why they don’t recommend anti-seize. NGK claims that the Nickel plugs won’t ever get seized in the block.
Use a long bar to break them loose.[/quote]
I guess my age is showing. Seems there is a lot of different opinion on the anti-seize question on spark plugs. I found where NGK mentioned it was optional, but to reduce the install torque.
My experience with sticking threads in aluminum heads, was over 20-years ago with Champion spark plugs. I have used the High temp silver anti-seize on the spark plugs since then. I hate fixing heads with striped spark plug holes.[/quote]
ya I look at it as the engineer’s say it but are they going to stick by it…
I have had spark plugs get stuck in the head.. and you take a little bit more torc and you snap them off… then you have beg problems… you will have to take the head off and take the head to a machine shop and pay them $150 to drill it out and re thread it… and spark plugs are not that uncomman to seize and get stuck in and snap off at the nut… ya that has happen to me I had to pay like $300 just to fix it for head gasket and labor for the machine shop… if your taking it to the shop you probly best off junking the car.. because your like paying $2000 to fix it… I even called up some shops to get a quot… so if they say not to put in as much torc… then if you ever take your car to the shop and they do a diag on it… and take out the plugs you need to verify that they used the correct torc… if not they will use a air gun on it… and you dont beleave me I have see shops do it becaue they are to lazy… my thoughts are that if you say their spark plugs seized up and then snap inside… they will say you didnt do it correctly and refure to pay your repair bill and your going to get stuck with it yourself
PS…. that was an NGK spark plug that snappedThe elephant in the room is counterfeit parts. A lot of them are so cleverly reproduced that they come in counterfeit OEM packaging, and dealerships and parts retailers are completely unaware that this crap is in their supply chain.
I’d say a lot of issues people have had with non-OEM plugs is due to counterfeiting.
The Maxima owners manual just says use double platinum but if you read the service manual it specifies NGK.
They are most likely referring to synthetic motor oil if they recommend every 15,000 miles. Why do you do it every 5000 then? are you afraid the seals will go bad?
Toyota recommends spark plugs every 120,000 miles and coolant an unbelievably longer length of time for the 2006 corolla.
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