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With the oil drain plug stripped that badly, all you can do now is get one of those bolt removers you hammer on (gently). It cuts into the stripped head, and then you use a wrench to unscrew it as normal. You’ll have to replace the plug.. that sucker is done.
Trying to find a link for you… http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bolt-extractors/bolt-extractors Something like that would work.
Good luck.
-Hinoki
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The irwin bolt extractors work very well have a full set of them myself That’s the best option only other choice is drill a 1/4 inch hole then run a left handed drill bit through it.
I went to harbor freight and picked up a set. Unfortunately the transmission pan is in the way and I am unable to get a ratchet or anything remotely close to it. There’s a very small amount of room.
I bet that plug has rubber O-ring in its housing that fried itself solid to the oil pan.
Now I have a stupid one. How possibly can a transmission pan be so close to oil pan? And drain plug?
Anyhow. If you can’t get ratchet on – you can’t, we have to trust you. Buy very expensive best quality vise grips you can find and lock them shut on the plug head. Then use cheat pipe to undo it. Then simply return vise grip, though they always come handy. Do NOT go for cheapo ones, you need very solid sharp teeth, so buy best you can find.
Btw, monkey wrench will do the job if you have one.
I had TRANSMISSION drain plug on my Silverado do same thing. I ended removing entire trannie pan and drilling darn thing out. They do sell those plugs new in parts stores, btw, don’t be afraid to damage it.
Worse come to worse is remove oil pan. And get it out somewhere in a vise.I tried vice grips with no luck. Same with the locking vice grip things from snap on. (Part number PWZ1) and didn’t have any luck.. I was squeezing them together with both hands as tight as I possibly could. It was so frustrating but I kept my cool and did the best I could.
car is out of town for the next few weeks so I am unable to access it right now. Hopefully a set of those Irwin bolt extractors will work. If not I have a friend with a welder and gonna get a nut welded too it. I really hope the oil pan doesn’t strip or crack.
[quote=”BeardedWrencher” post=134447]car is out of town for the next few weeks so I am unable to access it right now. Hopefully a set of those Irwin bolt extractors will work. If not I have a friend with a welder and gonna get a nut welded too it. I really hope the oil pan doesn’t strip or crack.[/quote]
After all is said and done, swing by that quickie lube that changed it last and kick the guy right in the taint with cowboy boots. Seen those guys even put in drain plugs with an impact before.
Those Irwin extractors are pretty good. The harder you pull the tighter they grip. I’ve put an impact on mine and gotten a lot apart. Don’t be afraid of using heat too. You can brakekleen off the residue in the area and remember that the oil in the pan will absorb some heat anyway. Same principle as how a deep fryer works, right?
If it was me I’d cut right to welding a nut over the drain plug. If clearance is tight use a stick welder and bend the rod to get inside. If its hard to get really clean use a 6011 rod, as its more tolerant of poor prep. From your pic it looks like a mig stinger might fit in there OK. If you can get a swivel socket in there use an impact to get it out.
Look over the threads real good before you put the new one in. Had a run for about 6 months of damaged pan threads once, all last serviced at the same quick lube joint. Kept thread repair kits and oversize plugs in stock for it. They must’ve fired the guy doing it as after the 6 months never saw more from there. I had called the service desk and let them know I was really enjoying how much money they were making me but they needed to get a handle on whoever was damaging the customer’s cars. I’m sure a few of the customers that were paying me to fix it were calling too.
Being that the oil pan is an aluminum one, you have enough meat to put a HeliCoil kit in it or an oversize plug that is self-tapping if the threads are trashed. Should also respond well to some heat as aluminum expands easier than steel does. Gets expensive to change the pan.
[quote=”nickwarner” post=134494][quote=”BeardedWrencher” post=134447]car is out of town for the next few weeks so I am unable to access it right now. Hopefully a set of those Irwin bolt extractors will work. If not I have a friend with a welder and gonna get a nut welded too it. I really hope the oil pan doesn’t strip or crack.[/quote]
After all is said and done, swing by that quickie lube that changed it last and kick the guy right in the taint with cowboy boots. Seen those guys even put in drain plugs with an impact before.
Those Irwin extractors are pretty good. The harder you pull the tighter they grip. I’ve put an impact on mine and gotten a lot apart. Don’t be afraid of using heat too. You can brakekleen off the residue in the area and remember that the oil in the pan will absorb some heat anyway. Same principle as how a deep fryer works, right?
If it was me I’d cut right to welding a nut over the drain plug. If clearance is tight use a stick welder and bend the rod to get inside. If its hard to get really clean use a 6011 rod, as its more tolerant of poor prep. From your pic it looks like a mig stinger might fit in there OK. If you can get a swivel socket in there use an impact to get it out.
Look over the threads real good before you put the new one in. Had a run for about 6 months of damaged pan threads once, all last serviced at the same quick lube joint. Kept thread repair kits and oversize plugs in stock for it. They must’ve fired the guy doing it as after the 6 months never saw more from there. I had called the service desk and let them know I was really enjoying how much money they were making me but they needed to get a handle on whoever was damaging the customer’s cars. I’m sure a few of the customers that were paying me to fix it were calling too.
Being that the oil pan is an aluminum one, you have enough meat to put a HeliCoil kit in it or an oversize plug that is self-tapping if the threads are trashed. Should also respond well to some heat as aluminum expands easier than steel does. Gets expensive to change the pan.[/quote]
Good stuff but I wouldn’t do the self tapper. At most they would get two oil changes out of it and be right back to square one. I would do the helicoil from the get go.
Hey man, I find these style extractors work the best in this type of application. I have this exact set. It’s a Canadian store but I’m sure you can find an equivalent where you live
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