Stuck caliper bracket bolts on 2000 Ford Mustang

[Logan]

Recently, I had to change most of the brake assembly on the front passenger side on my mustang because one of the caliper pistons seized and ground my pads to the metal/tore up my rotor. The only thing stopping me from changing the rotor is the fact that my caliper bracket bolts are stuck, I suspect due to the heat caused by the pads/rotor grinding…or they haven’t been taken off in years. Anyway, I’ve tried PB Blaster and a breaker bar (not to mention broken plenty of 5/8″ and 15mm sockets/wrenches), I’ve tried heating the head with a propane torch (its a coleman torch; all we have for the moment…) but I can’t seem to get it to heat up to red-hot and expand. Are there any other methods to try and free the bolts, and does a propane torch not burn hot enough to heat the bolt properly? I don’t have access to an oxy-acetylene torch for the moment, but I may be able to talk to my old shop teacher…Any help is greatly appreciated!

Topic

[college man]

Can you post a picture of what you got? Can you get a breaker bar
with a cheater pipe on it or do you have an impact gun or barrow one.

[Wayne]

[quote=”mehpersonguy0″ post=90144] does a propane torch not burn hot enough to heat the bolt properly?[/quote]
Nope, you’ll need an oxy-acetylene set.

Other methods are as college-man describes, breaker bar with pipe, sometimes using a hammer to simulate an impact gun will help break it loose (did this before I got a tank setup, or separate impact gun). You can try hitting the side of it as well to break it loose, just not so hard as you damage anything.

2 wrench method will often work as well, which Eric has gone over in a couple of videos, but in case you missed:

[valde]

Using one wrench and hammer is normally better for rusted bolts. And take your time ad penetrating fluid and try again.

[Travis]

Try heating what the bolts go through instead of the bolt itself

[Andrew]

Try hitting what the bolt goes through with a ball pein hammer, then hitting the head of the bolt. Failing that, you can sometimes shock the bolt round with a hammer and bluntish chisel.

[EricTheCarGuy]

You need real heat, propane won’t cut it.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[Norbert]

If you have a drill you might be able to drill out the bolt and replace it

[EricTheCarGuy]

[quote=”AcuraTL3.2″ post=90322]If you have a drill you might be able to drill out the bolt and replace it[/quote]

Honestly, I think this would be way more trouble than it’s worth. Just my opinion.

[Logan]

Wow I haven’t looked or bothered to update any of this ._. Well, I couldn’t get an oxy-acetylene torch, and despite my best efforts (tons of penetrating fluid, blunt force, cheater bars, impact tools, shock with a chisel or hammer, relief cutting, everything I could try) I couldn’t get the bolt to budge…so after putting new pads on, I eventually gave up for sanity’s sake. The rotor is still shot, but it stops the car for the time being.

Might I add that the car has not moved in a month or two because of expired tags and I got my ’98 eclipse…both cars need some serious work that we can’t afford though, I know that much for sure…

[EricTheCarGuy]

A torch is your best friend in those situations as I’ve pointed out. While you’re waiting for your registration, perhaps you can track one down.

Good luck.

[Author]

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