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I see a timesert for 5/16 is very slightly smaller than my 5/16 inch hole I have now. Would you recommend going for it? I’m afraid the countersink edge would be the end of my waterpump seal. Went to the welder today and they hadn’t even started, they promised monday. I realized I can still adjust the valves and put the tensioners on while I wait. Adjusting the valves is pretty easy with a cam wheel attached to absolutely nothing but the cam.
Welding shop put me off one more day. If they don’t come through tomorrow, getting 5/16inch by 18 helicoil and I’m going to go for it. It’s just barely bigger than the hole and there is no taper like with timeset. Wish me luck.
I actually did order an angle drill. I’d like to have it for other projects and CPO had a heck of a deal for a bosch 12 volt lithium ion with two battery packs and 30 minute charger. I combined with a 4 inch cutoff wheel grinder thing and got both for $131 shipped. Been looking for something for exhaust bolts easier than a recipricating saw and more durable than a dremel cutting wheel. Zipzaw thing takes standard 4 inch cut off wheels, cheap and fast on bolts.
1 BSHRPS11-2A-RT – RECON Bosch 12V Max Li-Ion 3/8″ I-Dri 89.99
1 RTZRRFS1000-20-RT – RECON RotoZip 7 Amp 4″ ZipSaw Cut- 49.99
1 SAVERECON – Save Up to $25 Instantly on Recon -15.00
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Sub-Total: 124.98
Tax: 0.00
Shipping & Handling: 6.99
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TOTAL: 131.97So if I have to do the helicoil thing, I’m ready. Or I will be when it comes, it shipped today. One nice thing about car repairs good excuse to buy new tools.
Welding shop says it’s done. So I’m going to go get the rig. We will see. I measured and assuming my new Bosch drill from the front of the chuck to the back of the drill is 4 inches, it is technically possible to drill the hole for helicoil without pulling the engine. I would need to cut a drill bit in half and there would have to be clearance between the chuck and the area where the motor mount attaches to the block and I won’t know that until the drill gets here. But there is about 5 inches clearance, the hole needs to be about 1/2 of an inch deep and the drill takes up 4 inches. So it’s possible. The drill bit I need is so very slightly bigger than the hole, I think that part is OK too.
At this point, not sure where to go for it and use the motor mount rig as a back up or try the rig and then do the helicoil if I have to. The problem not going for it is if my jerry rig doesn’t work, I got to take the belt, tensioner, water pump, etc. all back apart. I don’t know what i have to lose by going for the helicoil, I guess waiting until Thursday for the stuff, chance the quick release key won’t even clear the block there and wasted time. Making a mess of metal shavings when I just got done cleaning them up.
The rig isn’t exactly easy either, I need the exact right length bolt, too long and I’ll break or bend the water pump, too short and it will leak. I’ll probably end up having to buy a 35mm or 40mm bolt and grind some off the end until it’s just perfect and use a washer or two also.
I think if I knew the chuck would clear the block, I’d try the helicoil for sure. The other problem is how long are the helicoils? If they are longer than 1/2 inch, I’m kind of screwed. You can see why the bolt stripped out right, 1/2 inch of threads in aluminium. The other thing is I ordered the 5/16-18 helicoil. 1/2 inch of helicoil is probably just a few threads.
Sounds like you’ve got your work cut out for you. Keep us posted on your progress and take pics if you can.
Good luck.
I will. The toughest thing is going to be the length of the bolt through the nut welded to the motor mount. It has to be exactly the right length to put pressure on the head of the bolt in the stripped hole at the same time it bites down on the nut surface or washers placed on the nut surface without applying too much or too little pressure. I think I’m going to have to measure and then take surface area off the bolt until it’s just right.
Picture of motor mount with nut welded on.
Should be interesting. Looks like you’ve got a good start on it though. Thanks for the pic. It really helps.
Think I’ll leave the stripped bolt in the stock hole of the waterpump so I’m pressing down on the head of the bolt with the bolt going through the nut and not on the waterpump itself. I guess we’ll see. Maybe a dab of hondabond to keep the head of the bolt from moving.
Means next time the waterpump comes out, I’ll have to pull that motor mount. But it’s so much easier to work in there with the mount out anyway.
Measured and the bolt should be about 27mm. So I’ll get a 30mm and a 35 and see which one works better.
Well, I have to say it’s an interesting fix. I hope it lasts for a long time, because you need a little luck your way.
Thanks! Was busy with other life things but I did buy a right angle drill mostly because I got a good price and I wanted one anyway. The reality is it’s too tight to drill that hole with the engine in the car. So if my trick doesn’t work, I’ll be either pulling the engine to tap or towing the car to a machine shop to fill the whole and tap. Most likely pulling the engine. I’ll report back once I get it together and let you know if it leaks. I figure with the amount of locktite (243) you can put on an M10 bolt and nut, if it doesn’t leak the first time it probably never will. It would also mean removing the motor mount to remove the water pump in the future realistically but who cares, it’s much easier to work in there on the timing belt/balance belt water pump, etc, with that motor mount off the engine and it’s only three bolts to take it off.
OK, here’s pictures. Of course the worst thing is not knowing how much force is applied to the water pump. It feels good with one washer but it may need no washers in which case, a lot of work to be done if it leaks. I backed it back out after I was done and locktited the crap out of the 10M bolt. And then cranked it down hard. You can see from the shots from the top that the bolt is perfectly centered on the head of the stripped water pump bolt. And the diameter of the bolt is the same size as the head of the stripped bolt. And yes a 17mm socket does fit over the head of the bolt. The bolt is 10m-1.50 X 30mm. The nut of course is just a 10M -1.50 flange nut.
Given that the water pump is a serviceable part, I don’t know if I would have gone for the locktite. That may come back to haunt you in the end. At least you got it sorted. Thanks for the updates and the pics.
That part is fine, you just remove the part of the motor mount from the block to take pressure off that bolt. Of course if I don’t have enough pressure, I’ll have to get the bolt out to remove the washer. But it’s 243 blue, not red, I think I can overcome it with a breaker bar pretty easily.
I just hope it works the first time. Just got the belts on and lined up, tensioner tightened. Got a lot yet to do, exhaust, crossmember, valve adjustment. But I’m getting there. Cam wheel lined up the first time. Feel like something is wrong when it goes correctly the first time.
Almost done, putting exhaust back, crossmembers, adjusting valves, don’t have that much free time but I think I’ll be ready to start it tomorrow evening.
I finished adjusting the valves today (ETCG video) and put fluids back in the car and started it. It sounds really good. No water pump leaks yet, I let it get up to operating temp so the thermostat is popped and the pressure is there.
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