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Now comes along this 2002 Honda Accord, where the front bumper was struck a sideways blow by a speeding Jimmy Johns delivery car.
The front end is now bent 1.5 inches to the left. Or so it seems, going by how the hood latch is now about that far off from latching. Also about the same diff between the top of the fender openings and the top of the tires. Car still drives fine and straight with no steering wheel offset so it looks like everything but the front 2 feet are pretty straight.
A body shop says $3,800 to fix. That means the car is totaled according to the insurance company.
Anyway, is it feasible for this shadetree mechanic to bend the front end back into relative straightness? Ropes, trees, and hydraulic jacks? Never tried anything like this before. Besides the straightening it just looks like it needs a new bumper absorbing bar and bumper cover.
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It could be done, but than the big question is will it perform correctly in an accident? Also if you plan on fixing and selling, check with your state, some states (like mine) prohibit selling any vehicle that has ever has a damaged frame unless signed off by a certified body shop. Most body shops wont do that as they are terrified to assume liability.
raistian has it right. its best done on a frame machine. vehicles are made to buckle in a collision. maybe you just need a couple fenders, Rad support and a couple new bumper brackets, do you have pics?
Pics can tell us more than words here.
Buy a new bumper and take it to the frame shop IMO.
All said and done you could get out under 600.
Just depends on your tools and ability after ya get it back.
I farm my frame work out. Minimum on the machine runs me 250. You prob will pay more.
Shop around we have a bunch of places to pick from.
Good Luck and hope this helped.Hard to assess the damage without taking the headlights/bumper/ fenders off and checking out the damage.
I have a strong feeling your upper (and possibly lower) rad support have got a bit of a twist to them.
With a side impact it’s also very likely that your inner fender has been pushed in.
However, it isn’t hard to at least pull the pieces back into the “ballpark” given you have measurements to guide you. Test-fitting and removing panels would get very tiresome.
Anything will work, leverage, a hammer, slide hammer, I’ve even used a long 2×4 to get an upper rad support straight.
However nothing beats an anchored hydraulic frame puller. They are easy, safe, and accurate. Most reputable shops should have at least one at their disposal.
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