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Sticky IAC very rarely but also very inconvenient!

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  • #587321
    asetoftoolsasetoftools
    Participant

      So it appears my idle air controller is sticking not often, but at some very inconvenient times (such as when i am in the line to go for emissions testing). I have taken it out and used carb cleaner on it to unstick it before. I am just wondering if there is a better way. Can i spray silicone on it, and will that keep it nice and lubricated? or is silicone in the engine bad? It is the GM type, which i can attach a picture. pretty common. I have already done other things such as smoke check for vacuum leaks and such. The car occasionally throws an IAC code, but only once every half year. I am pretty sure its the problem.

      So just wondering if there is a recommended lubrication for the pintle on these guys. Its about 80 bucks to replace it or more from canadian suppliers.

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    • #587336
      WayneWayne
      Participant

        Yeah, silcone = bad. I don’t believe so much for the engine as the cat(s). This will foul them and the o2 sensors.
        http://www.aa1car.com/library/converter.htm

        Silicates can find their way into the exhaust if the engine develops an internal coolant leak through a crack in a combustion chamber or a head gasket. Silicate corrosion additives will ruin the oxygen sensor as well as the catalytic converter, so chances are if the converter has been fouled the O2 sensor will also need to be replaced. White smoke in the exhaust is a clue that there’s an internal coolant leak.

        I’d just replace it with a cheaper after-market one in this case were it me.

        #587430
        EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
        Keymaster

          You don’t want to use silicone. It can damage your O2 sensor. That said, I don’t often have luck with cleaning IAC’s. I often just replace them.

          Good luck and keep us posted.

          #587479
          valdevalde
          Participant

            I maybe have had something like 75% success rate with cleaning IAC about half of them even without removing IAC and just to put cleaner in and through IAC. You probably have done them more but still cleaning it cost next to nothing so I think peoples should try it before replacing.

            To OP you probably just have to replace it. If there wasn’t lubricant in it when it was new you shouldn’t put lubricant in so if you can open it and there has been lubricant in it then you can lubricate it but don’t use silicone.

            #587481
            asetoftoolsasetoftools
            Participant

              Yeah thanks all! i might go for the 20 dollar ebay one. Sucks, but I got no money and the next closest is 80 bucks from canadian tire.

              I really envy the store called autozone where they have a duralast one for 40 bucks.

              #597705
              asetoftoolsasetoftools
              Participant

                The issue never resurfaced. Only was a problem when idling waiting for admissions testing and absolutely never returned (isnt that the way). I purchase the $20 ebay IAC and its metal and everything, but I don’t see the need to install it as the car has perfect idle.

                #597870
                EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                Keymaster

                  If it idles and you’re not having trouble then I wouldn’t worry about it. Thanks for the update.

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