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Greetings All. I have a 97 Chrysler Town and Country and the front calipers keep sticking. I replaced them, (pads and rotors, bleed the system), and they both stuck again. I am replacing the flex lines and bleeding the system again today, but if this doesn’t work is there any thing I should be looking at besides replacing the master cylinder? (previous owner says that was replaced in 2009) Thanks!
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Quoted From 619DioFan:
Make sure that the caliper mounting slides are lubed well so they can slide freely.
+1 on lubing the caliper slide pins. Please be sure to use silicon paste only on the pins. Clean first, then just a light coating on the pins.
A+ on lubing the the slides.also make sure the slide pins are not corroded.just recheck your work. C8-)
Does the van have ABS? You may have to have a scan tool to bleed the system if that is the case. And by scan tool, I mean Chrysler’s DRB system that usually only the dealers have.
Not only the dealers have the DRB scan tool (They are available to anyone with enough cash from SPX or eBay). Just to clarify, you don’t need that to bleed the brakes unless you get air in the system above the ABS controller (like if you accidentally let the master cylinder go dry as you are bleeding the system.
In addition to the slide pins, you should check the surface that the ends of the pads slide against on the caliper mounting bracket. These surfaces tend to take a pounding from the pads every time the vehicle brakes and they can develop ridges in the metal that will prevent the pads from sliding properly. If they’re not too bad, you can usually file them smooth– if you do this, you’ll probably need to add spacer clips to the pads to prevent rattle. It is also possible to build up the surface with a weld and then grind that down to specs. I think some parts places also sell a “loaded caliper” kit that includes calipers, pads and a reconditioned bracket.
Here is a video from Eric on replacing front disc brakes –
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAviOGXz … t3EVppbf88
+1 with every body referring to make sure all the guide pins are correctly lubed with the correct lubricant. Make sure that the caliper is supported and not left to dangle as that can cause issues with the brake hoses.
Also don’t forget to torque down all your fasteners down also to the correct specifications.
Thanks again to All for the advice. Guess I should’ve been a bit more detailed. The calipers have been lubed with anti-seeze where it is metal on metal and the slide bolts lubed with silicon grease and torqued to 38 foot lbs. I did replace the flexible lines and bleed the front brakes again yesterday. I had someone pump the brakes while I watched the piston and they do move in both directions. We’ll see tomorrow when I check them again.
Quoted From sparky62:
Thanks again to All for the advice. Guess I should’ve been a bit more detailed. The calipers have been lubed with anti-seeze where it is metal on metal and the slide bolts lubed with silicon grease and torqued to 38 foot lbs. I did replace the flexible lines and bleed the front brakes again yesterday. I had someone pump the brakes while I watched the piston and they do move in both directions. We’ll see tomorrow when I check them again.
Lets just be clear, did you lube the slide pins with silicone and where the pads contact the caliper with antisieze?
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
Lets just be clear, did you lube the slide pins with silicone and where the pads contact the caliper with antisieze?
Silicone on the slide pins, antisieze where the pads meet the caliper. caliper mount cleaned with wire wheel prior to lube. Just replaced the flex lines and bleed the front brakes again. We’ll see after a couple of days of driving. Thanks again everyone!
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