starts and stalls immediately..

[Charles]

2003 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5 liter AWD..I’ll try and be succinct. Had an issue with my power steering pump needing replacement. To gain access to top mounting nut, I removed the top plenum, and after repair reconnected everything. Car will not start since this repair. I initially thought it was the fuel pump, cause after I turned the ignition to the on position, I didn’t hear the 2-3 sec whine from the pump; and after checking that the truck had spark and voltage to the coils I figured I was right. I accessed the pump, double checked to see if there was voltage at the pump connector (there was) and assumed it was the issue. Replaced the pump with Hyundai OEM pump…not the issue. What happens is the truck starts and stalls immediately..if I hold the gas pedal down alittle it will run, rough and backfiring, but will run. I also checked the fuse relay with a test light, and replaced it with a known good relay, and no change. It seems to me to be a fuel delivery issue, but I’m stumped. I have spark, so not the crank sensor..I checked the volts and continuity of the crank sensor and cam sensor, and all is good. The fuel pressure regulator is new, I replaced it with the pump, just because. I don’t want to throw more parts at this, thats why I’m asking for assistance. The battery is charged, and I checked every fuse….no issues there…I also checked the inertia switch, and that is not the problem. Does anyone have any ideas?? Please help!!

Charlie

Topic

[EricTheCarGuy]

Please keep all of your posts in the same thread instead of starting a new one as we like to keep all the information on a particular problem all in the same place.

[Charles]

The truck doesn’t have an immobilizer..

[LJ11194]

Any updates?

[Charles]

I checked the timing belt to see if its in time, and it is…I advanced the throttle by adjusting the TPS and the truck starts and stays on but idles up and down…revs up and then goes down…so its something with the throttle…TPS is new…so I don’t know what else to do…I might break down and take it to a mechanic…I’m at my wits end!!

[Wayne]

Try looking for a leak? Carb cleaner is your buddy. As to it being delivery, if you’ve already checked fuel pressure, it might be worth it to pull the injectors to see if you’ve got some garbage there from the fuel rails. Some do tend to rust on the inside and subsequently clog the injector’s filter baskets, usually trigger misfire codes though. But since you’ve likely been knockin’ it around, it’s a possibility I thought I’d mention.

[video width=425 height=344 type=videotube]9CPqbaSgcok[/video]

[Charles]

Thanks for the suggestion, I checked the fuel pressure and I know the injectors fire…I checked them already…as for a vacuum leak…I don’t know….the car won’t run unless I advance the throttle…I didn’t like the way it ran, so I returned it to factory setting…I re check all the hoses…I have to replace the battery, since it is discharging. I charged it, and over the past week its been slowly discharging…could be that its an old battery…I’m at a loss as to what the deal is…

[Wayne]

But much like a guy that’s had 6 kids already and a wife that refuses birth-control, you could be firing blanks now(or near enough)…Just a thought. 😉

[spelunkerd]

I had a similar situation (low idle, starts OK but had to give it ++gas to keep it running) happen with a bad battery once. Turned out my PCM needed a stable resting voltage to make the sensors work properly. I replaced the battery and problem was solved. Maybe it’s as simple as that.

[Charles]

If its as easy as a new battery I’d sh*t myself! We’ll see tomorrow when I replace the battery…thanks for the reply!!

[spelunkerd]

Wouldn’t that be a cool repair. As you know, if you got the vehicle running for a while, the alternator should recharge even a weak battery. In my case, after I got the car to run for 15 minutes, I would shut it off and then restart and the problem disappeared until the next day when I tried to start again. Did you prove the battery is bad with a load test after a full charge?

If that doesn’t work, another thing to look at would be running voltage, to be sure the alternator is working. In my experience, when a new problem happens after you work on a car, the cause is usually a goofy oversight, like maybe swapping an alternator wire.

[Charles]

I charged the battery once before, and was attempting to start the truck and it was a no go…I cant really test the alternator unless I advance the throttle, and then the engine runs rough…I have the battery on a charger right now, cause all the auto stores around here are down from the storm..so I figured let me charge it one more time…What I don’t get is…before I changed the power steering pump, I had the truck running, and it ran fine…I was watching the power steering pully for fluid coming out by the shaft …seals were leaking..I confirmed that it needed replacement, and just went about taking it out…the only thing I did was remove the top plenum to access the top mounting nut of the pump…when everything went back together it didn’t start…I have checked all connections numerous times, I have been working on cars for about 25 years, so I’m no novice, I know my way around the engine…I’m just frustrated with this thing..!!

[EricTheCarGuy]

+1 on checking your work especially since you had the plenum off, you could have a massive vacuum leak on your hands which can cause all kinds of trouble.

[Charles]

I took the plenum off 3x…I can’t imagine missing a vacuum line 3x…especially since I was looking for trouble spots… I’ll look one more time though… I do hear a slight woosh after the engine stops… Starts then dies, then a puff of air, also smell gas around engine compartment.

[Charles]

Got codes p1110, p1172,p1175, p1196… All related to the throttle body… Any suggestions… ? Already cleaned the throttle body… No change

[Wayne]

http://www.myhyundaiforums.com/TSB/xml/06-36-003.swf

View the notes for this, pair those DTC’s together. P1110 & P1172, P1110 & P1175… Check your wiring and whatever pins connect to the ETS motor. It’s complaining about little or no current to it, and it being stuck closed.

Initialization procedure here:
http://www.myhyundaiforums.com/TSB/xml/05-36-005-1%20ETS%20Initialization.swf
Note the “Important” section at the bottom of page 1. If you yank the PCM, or any listed component of the ETS from it, this procedure has to be carried out.

[Author]

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