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The problem started with a bad Stater, I would turn the key and nothing would happen. so I used a remote starter switch and nothing happened again. so I removed the starter and did a bench test and the results were that the solenoid was bad. So I replace the Starter with a re-manufacture starter. I did a bench test before installing back to engine and it worked like it should. So after installing the starter and connecting all of the connections back together, I got ready to crank the engine. So I turn the key and the engine cranks just enough to star the engine but I also hear some grinding sound. That does not sound wright. So I decide to turn the engine off and start it up again. SO I did but this time there was no cranking just clicking and grinding noise, like if the starter was not getting enough juice. So I replaced battery with a working one and did the same thing. So I let it rest and try it again and guess what? it stared the engine but with the same grinding noise. Turn it off and turn the key again and it did the same thing from before, with clicking and grinding noise and no crank. Next I decided to use the remote starer switch and when pressed the trigger, that engine cranked and stared up like a beast. I get the impression that the starter solenoid is not getting good current form the wire that comes from the star position. HELP!! PLEASE!! CAN SOMEONE GIVE ME ANY IDEAS?
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BTW I am only getting 11.5 Volts from the wire the hooks up to the starter solenoid. That’s the wire that powers the solenoid not the starter motor.
Sounds cable related. with a meter check positive to ground.
also check the ground connection.http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems#VoltageDropTesting
I will try to follow the wire and all of the paths. so you think that a relay may also cause the problem if is going bad.
[quote=”jalcaraz” post=75203]I will try to follow the wire and all of the paths. so you think that a relay may also cause the problem if is going bad.[/quote]
That is a possibility.remove the relay and jump the contacts
to see if the starter engages or swap the relay with a known
good one.Problem solved. so with a volt-meter I went under the dash to check for continuity between the ignition terminal and the ignition switch. I found a problem when I was checking for continuity between the Starter wire pin(blk/wht wire) and the ignition switch on position 3(start engine position), it was not reading any continuity. So I wiggled the wires the readings would picked up and dropped. So it must be the wires. So I removed all the taped from the wires and found a mess. This car also had a kill switch hooked up(which I removed) to a relay which requires the Stater wire to split into two wires and that might explain the drop in voltage. This car also had a car alarm and who ever removed it, did a half A$$ job because they left wires and solder wrap around the ignition wires. After cleaning up the wires,the car stared up like it should. I guess you have to be care-full when installing a car alarm and kill switch. Make sure that who ever does the job, does a clean job.
Here are some pictures of What I found
the clean up
Alarms, starter kill switches, and remote starters (most of which have some kind of anti grind which is a starter kill system) are a great convenience, but all together too often, they are installed by someone that shouldn’t really be messing with that kind of wiring.
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