Starter solenoid mod

[brandon]

I think this is the right place for this. I have a 1995 chevy corsica that has gone through two starters that i know of. When the last one went out about a year ago i found that the points in the solenoid had gone bad. Now the starter that is in the car is starting to give the same problems. I want to replace the solenoid that is on the car with a heavy duty solenoid. I have heard that some solenoids also “engage” the starter. I would like to find out if this starter does this or if its just electrical.

Thanks

Topic

[Bill]

The solenoids you are using are likely from overseas…need i say more?

[Anthony Lamb]

JWI,

Normally on most starter motor designs you have a pull in and hold in coil (solenoid) when the pull in and hold coil is turned on will make the the switch contacts to come together and let current to flow and make the stater to turn. This is dependent on design though.

If you can pull the solenoid out without damaging the starter you might be able to clean up the contacts.
Hopefully what I said isn’t to confusing.

[brandon]

This is what i was wanting to know. I’m just wanting to move the coil to a better place.
Thank you

[Johnny K.]

depending on design, you may not need to move or alter the starter other then a small modification. google for this, as it has been about 6 years since i have been into the heavy make things work for cheap mode, as i dont race anymore, but theres an acceptable method to “Jump” the contacts on the starter so the starter sylinoid is by-passed, and wire in a late-model ford ignition sylinoid on your firewall or fenderwell. again google or youtube it for more information and wireing diagrams, but the main use of this was in some setups with headers and what not. clearances between exhuast systems and the starter were very small, and leads to alot of heat on the sylinoid causeing a weakend state, aka…. your racing, high rpm = hot exhuast… you spin out to miss a wreck and stall or something of that nature…and your starter acts as if its been trying to crank the motor over for an hour. very weak and most likely wont turn the motor over at all. the cyilinoid gets bypassed by the jumper “wire” (sometimes a small piece of metal is used as its more reliable then a wire) and the on / off action is then handled by the much cooler cylinoid on the fire wall, i say ford’s because its thier basic setup and handy and easily mounted vitually anywhere…and they run for about $6.00 to $12.00 dollars. another thing to look for while your mounting your jumper in place, is a missing heat shield, or construct and add your own out of a small sheet of tin or aluminium. be aware of moving parts and clearances and wires and such though. good luck on the fix!

[Author]

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