Squeaking/knocking Noise from RFP Foot Well

[lothian]

2000 Honda Accord – 125k miles

My Accord makes two distinct yet intermittent sounds from the vicinity of the right front passenger (RFP) foot well ONLY when we roll the car over any road imperfection. I characterize each sound as:
1) a plastic squeak; and,
2) a knock.

– I’ve lain upside-down in the RFP seat with my head in the foot well while someone drives the car. I can hear the noise(s) but I cannot pinpoint the source.

– I’ve hoisted the car–yanked the RF tire back & forth; removed the RF tire and inspected for anything obvious; inspected the undercarriage in the suspect area for anything obvious–all to no avail.

– I’ve shaken the car doors, (horizontal movement) and bounced the car (vertical movement), yet I cannot induce either noise–iow, the mass of the car in motion seems required to cause both sounds.

Additionally:
– Regarding sound 1 — Suspect kick panel? I removed that piece yet the sound continues.

– Regarding sound 2 — Suspect the door panel or the speaker wiring harness (or similar)? I removed the door panel yet the sound continues; the speaker wiring harness is secure.

I suspect the possibility that these sounds are telegraphing into the RFP foot from the suspension–reasonable given the age of the suspension components and the fact that these noises only occur when the car is in motion.

I’ve searched this forum and others for similar complaints to no avail. Additionally, I find no TSBs that specifically address my complaint.

What are the usual t’shooting/isolation steps for identifying the source of noises I describe?

Topic

[college man]

see if this link helps.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/diagnosing-noises-in-your-car

[george gonzalez]

After 14 years all the ball joints and rubber bushings in the suspension are suspect, they’re probably starting to fritter and crumble. I’m going though my ’96 Integra which has the same issues. Basically the wheels are isolated form the chassis by rubber baby buggy-bumpers, about a dozen of them on the front and eight on the back. Take a flashlight and look at the front suspension. Everywhere there is a big bolt going through a suspension member the bolt goes through a RBBB. The rubber eventually cracks or starts to separate from the center or outer bushing hub. That causes squeaks and creaks and clunks when very loose. Unfortunately Honda wants to sell you the whole suspension arm for $80 to $300. But for $19 you can buy just the bushing and have a fine time cutting and hammering the bushings in and out.

In the snow and salt states the bolts will be firmly rusted inside the bushing inner hub so you’ll have to hack or grind the bolt and bushing out to remove the arm, so you need to spend another $3.50 for a new 14mm 1.5 pitch bolt. The Honda dealers don’t stock these so you have to go to a good car parts store that has the long wall of little bins and they will have the right bolt.

You can get the bushings sometimes from Honda for $40, or on eBay or Amazon for less than half that. What you do is find an on-line site that has the full original Honda exploded parts diagram and that MAY have the bushing part number listed, then Google for that and you’ll find it for sale elsewhere.

It’s a bit of a frustrating process as you have to remove one control arm at a time, only then can you tell if the bushings are bad, and by then you often have had to wreck the bushing by cutting it out. If you’re lucky you can remove the bolt from one end of the arm, then you can inspect that bushing from the side for frittered rubber, then with the arm free you can swing it which will flex the far captured end and you can listen for creaks and clunks.

Good luck. It’s not a hard job, and there’s no finesse involved, just a lot of trying to remove rusted bolts ( use 6-point impact sockets and a long breaker bar!), and a lot of hammering on parts to get them free. Don’t worry, use a 5-pound sledge hammer, those parts are made to take a huge beating. It also helps to have several small pry bars to pry the pieces apart.

Oh, you can also get clunks from loose ball joints, you do the obvious things with those.

[EricTheCarGuy]

I’d be taking a close look at the stabilizer links. At that mileage they’re probably pretty worn out and it’s a common cause of that noise on that vehicle. More info on finding noises at the article College man posted for you.

Keep us posted on your progress.

[lothian]

I’ve heard failed bushing noises before; the sound coming from this 2000 Accord isn’t the scrunching metal or dull clunk typical of those sources emanating from the other side of the floorboard. This sound is much more subtle, nearer, and more intermittent. Imagine a Sharpie rolling back and forth in the passenger door cubbie–that’s what one of the sounds is like.

Nonetheless, I intend to jack up the car (again) and inspect the linkages and bushings. I’m hopeful that something will appear more obvious to me this time, but admittedly I’m pessimistic.

Continuing in the spirit of pessimism…
Given the characteristic of the sounds I’ve described, what is the likelihood a popped spot-weld could be the source?

[EricTheCarGuy]

I would be surprised if it was a spot weld issue. Not beyond the realm of possibility though. I think it’s more likely to be a loose suspension component or worn bushing. Look for orange dust around components that move or fasten. This often indicates something that is loose or in need of lubrication. BTW I’ve also heard some strange noises from CV joints in the past. Something worth checking.

Keep us posted.

[Author]

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