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Get a friend to hop in the car and have them pump the brakes and look in the area where you notice fluid on the lines. From there if you still can’t find anything check all your other fluid levels and make 100% sure that this fluid is indeed brake fluid and not something like transmission fluid as I know that transmission lines, brake lines, and fuel lines can all be the same type of steel line and relatively the same thickness. From that point if you STILL can’t find what the cause is of the leaking fluid I’d take it to a mechanic. Also check your brake booster for any leaks or major signs of wear as it is possible it needs replacing. Keep us posted.
Did you have the issue before you serviced these brakes and did you service the front or rear or both?
The pedal does have a lot more resistance when the engines is off and I bled all 4 brakes and the back brakes had air in them and it does stop a lot better now before I changed them the pedal went almost all the way down to the floor board and wouldn’t stop that good now it goes down close to the floor board but stops descent. Any suggestions on what I should do next. Thanks so much everyone without you all I would have to take meds for anxiety 🙂
I was told that the brake pedal would go all the way to the floor before the vehicle would stop and this customer said the brakes work better than before but the pedal still goes to the floor in order to completely stop. And all I did was the front brakes. Would that swishing sound that comes from where the brake pedals push rod goes into the firewall would that be a bad diaphragm in the brake booster hence a bad booster or is there anything else it could be. Thanks so much everyone for your insight and direction and knowledge and because of everyone I should end up with a happy customer.
Hi guitarranger11,
(and “hi” to everyone else, I’m finally back)
Sorry to hear the issues you are experiencing. When you replaced the front brake lines, did you need to flare the ends of the brake line? Depending on the connection, either a single flare or double flare would be required. I would re-check all the connection points on the work performed so far.
Also, from your last post, it sounds like you are working on someone elses vehicle. A previous brake-line leak may have already been present, and you didn’t know about it. Or, a new leak in part of the “old” brake lines could have just developed. Typically when one brake line rusts through and starts to leak, all the brake lines need to be replaced (front and back).
Good luck and keep us posted.
If you are seeing brake fluid dripping out, then you have a leak. If you cleaned the area, and there is fluid there again, you have a leak. It’s possible that it’s a pin-size rust hole on the top of the line that you can’t see from underneath. Two of the lines will be fuel (one pressurized to the fuel rail, the other a return line). There should be another line that runs to the rear axle to a split that goes to each rear wheel. Find the split, and follow that line up the the area where you are seeing fluid, and mark it for reference. As suggested, have a friend pump the brake pedal, and see if you have any brake fluid at all dripping out, even slowly. Air will be pulled into the system and make it’s way for high ground, probably at the master cylinder, but regardless, it’s in the system, which will cause a spongy pedal. The fact that the brake pedal still has to be pushed to the floor to stop is not only dangerous, but suggests that there may be quite a bit of air trapped in the system. As dreamer asked, did you bleed all four brakes? If you have a leak along the line I’m talking about, you’ll never stop getting bubbles coming out as you try and bleed the rear system. If you find you need to replace the line, do NOT cut the bad section out and replace the bad section using compression fittings. I have done this repair on every Chevy truck I’ve owned. I have cheated a couple times, and removed the fittings at both ends and run a new brake line along the same route as the others instead of fighting with the plastic retainers that often break. If you do this though, make sure you find some other way to secure the line along that route.
I did bleed all 4 brakes and your all awesome and beefy your info is brilliant and I’m always looking to be educated in auto mechanics and Monday I’ll do what you said and I’ll update everyone then thanks so much everyone
One thing I’d like to mention is that you said “all I did was replace the front brakes”, if you didn’t open the bleeder when you compressed the caliper piston it’s possible that you damaged the master cylinder, if that’s the case and you bleed the brakes and still have an issue you may need to replace the master to cure the problem.
I actually did open the bleeder valve when I compressed the caliper piston, I used to use a C clamp when compressing the caliper and come to think of it I didn’t open the bleeder valve when compressing the caliper piston but now I don’t. I came across Eric’s video on changing brake pads and now I use big pliers and I put a hose on the bleeder valve and put the end in brake fluid and push the piston in with the pliers. Here’s another question when I push on that black rubber thing on the inside of the lid of the master cylinder it makes a swishing noise, is this normal?
Quoted From guitarranger11:
I actually did open the bleeder valve when I compressed the caliper piston, I used to use a C clamp when compressing the caliper and come to think of it I didn’t open the bleeder valve when compressing the caliper piston but now I don’t. I came across Eric’s video on changing brake pads and now I use big pliers and I put a hose on the bleeder valve and put the end in brake fluid and push the piston in with the pliers. Here’s another question when I push on that black rubber thing on the inside of the lid of the master cylinder it makes a swishing noise, is this normal?
anything that doesn’t sound normal usually isn’t. And to me a swishing noise shouldn’t be coming any where from within the brake system. And in my personal experience the only time I’ve ever heard a swishing noise from my brakes is when I’m bleeding them. and from the sounds of it you only bled the front brakes. Go back and bleed them ALL. From there if the problem persists look for leaks. if you have no leaks or air in the system I would have to say replace the master.
If you’ve bled everything out and you still have a spongy pedal check the shims on the backs of the brake pads, if you reused the old ones and they are rusty throw them away and recheck, you might be surprised at how much of a difference something like that makes. I don’t know if you have rear drum or disc but if you have rear drum brakes be sure they are adjusted correctly. Once you know everything is good and you still have a spongy pedal try this.
I know i should know this but how do you adjust the rear brakes (drum brakes). Where would the shims be because I didn’t see any. Thanks everyone
For “shims”, I believe Eric is referring to the thin metal anti-vibration dampners that sometimes come with disc brake pads. These shims are applied to the back of the disc brake pads. For rear drum brakes, they are typically adjusted using the “adjust screw” or “star adjuster”. Some vehicles have an access point on the rear side of the hub for adjustment (removal of the rubber plug is required). Other vehicles have access on the front side of the drum (like my ’94 Camry). And some will require the removal of the drum to physically access the star adjuster. Please see the link below. Good luck and keep us posted.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCpCkun2 … r_embedded (check out the 17:00 mark)
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