Spoiler Removal

[Jonathan]

Hey,
So I found someone on Facebook on a local Cobalt group that wants to trade spoilers with me. I have the highrise, and I think it’s overplayed, and would prefer a lower one. He has the lower, and wants the higher. We have the same make/model car (Chevy Cobalt SS) as well as same color (Rally Yellow) But I can’t get the spoiler off for the life of me. I removed the 4 nuts on the under side of it. The service manual has no additional information. I tried cutting the adhesive off with some string that I have, but that hasn’t helped much. I’m afraid of damaging the paint any more than I already may have.
My car is a 2006.

What’s the best way to pull this thing off?
Thanks,
-Jonathan

Topic

[Michael]

Try some of the goo be gone sticker removal. If that doesnt work yall could just swap trunk lids

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[Cameron]

I think the high rise looks better on that car than the lower set spoiler.

But in any event given the issue you have now I would get the finest fishing line you can buy and run it as close as you can to the bottom face mount of the spoiler and work it backwards as forwards firmly but slowly between the bottom face mount of the spoiler and the seal material on the body. The line should begin cutting under the bottom surface of the spoiler without damaging anything. This will break the seal between the bottom surface of the spoiler and the seal material GM have used between the body work and the spoiler (which I doubt is an adhesive product) . Make sure you use gloves when doing this as the fishing line will cut your fingers otherwise.

There is nothing novel about this. It is the same process used to remove badges from body work in cases where the manufacturer has used an adhesive product under the badge to adhere it to the body work.

If you do this properly you will not do any damage whatsoever to your paint surface.

Rather than remove and replace the spoiler you have I would just repaint the upper and side sections of the spoiler black. You could use 4 coats of black plasti dip for this as it is easily removable when multiple coats are used and will not damage your paint. The black will make the spoiler look smaller and it will be also less noticeable.

……………………..
Here is a custom Cobolt SS with a full black spoiler.
http://s157.photobucket.com/user/reddev003/media/Chevy/cobalt-2.jpg.html

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[zero]

Save the hassle and just switch trunk lids.

Service manuals won’t have any information about them because A ) mechanical manuals have incomplete information about body work, from what I understand there are separate manuals for body work. B ) Spoilers are a often a dealer installed accessory, so there is generally zero coverage in the manual for them.

You should also consider switching the lids because you will either have holes in your trunk, or run the chance of getting a spoiler that doesn’t attach with the holes you have. And the adhesive is actually designed to seal to keep water out of the holes. Whoever is taking the big spoiler should also think about switching the trunk springs, or their trunk might not stay open.

[Thomas Byrd]

The double-sided tape(thick foam) is really tough stuff. String or fishing line will probably work as mentioned above as long as they are strong enough to resist breaking from the pressure. I usually use my trusty old thin paint scraper that I use to take off emblems. But beware, my method can damage the paint if you aren’t careful. If you can lift up on it a little, and use the thin scraper to cut the tape apart in the center leaving half the tape on each piece is ideal. Then you get the fun task of carefully peeling the leftovers off of both pieces to prepare to replace the tape to install on the other vehicle.

I would suggest maybe you two meeting at a shop that can maybe take care of it for you. I wouldn’t recommend switching decklids as the vin number stickers will be switched also and may throw up red flags at resale.(they may think it has been wrecked)(looking at you CarFax). And finally they may be the same paint code, but it is highly unlikely the paint will be a perfect match.

This is my two cents, hope it helps.

[zero]

The double sided tape is part of the design to keep it attached to the car. They aren’t designed to be R&R’d, but rather removed and replaced. Using a scraper would be a bad idea, as soon as it touches the finish it would be scratched and that’s how you get rust. If anything you would want to use a heat gun and basically melt it off.

I’ve had to remove various automotive accessories that have been held on with 2-sided tape and it is not the least bit pleasant by any stretch of the word. You can get certain chemicals that lessen the adhesive, but it always comes down to lots of heat and elbow grease.

If there’s a concern with a possible VIN issue, simple bills of sale could easily solve that for both parties.

[Thomas Byrd]

I never use a heat gun anywhere near a composite or fiberglass wing. All it takes is one small air pocket in the wing and the heat will make it explode. And it will bubble the paint if it gets too hot on the decklid also.

Like I said the best advice is for them to meet at a shop where a pro can switch them out for them. To each his own I guess.

[Author]

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