Special tool needed for O2 electrical connector?

[Robert]

I replaced 3 of 4 O2 sensors.

The fourth sensor I cannot reach the electrical connector with the OTC 4460 electrical connector separator tool or the Crescent 5290 A-N connector pliers. I even tried taping the OTC 4460 tool to a long screwdriver but that was too clumsy to get the fitting to disconnect.

Is there a special tool that I can use to reach about 20 inches above the lowest exhaust pipes in a V8?

Topic

[none]

Year, make, and model helps us help you. I’m pretty suspicious you’re working on a 4.6 or a 5.4 Ford though. IF that’s the case, I’ve always had an unreasonably long flat bladed screwdriver that I run up and slide between the release tab and outer shell. Give the screwdriver a slight twist and pull the wire down. Otherwise….Year, make, and model.

[Robert]

2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo; 4.7L V8 is the make and model. It is the Bank Two number 1 sensor that I am having difficulty reaching/releasing the sensor. I did have a long screwdriver attempt but that did not work. If that is the tool of choice maybe I could use a slightly longer blade?

[none]

I only shot a wild guess at you because the complaint fit my personal experiences. Now that I know what you’re working on, I know I can’t help you anymore. Hopefully, somebody else can chime in with a better idea.

[Robert]

[quote=”no_common_sense” post=115931]I only shot a wild guess at you because the complaint fit my personal experiences. Now that I know what you’re working on, I know I can’t help you anymore. Hopefully, somebody else can chime in with a better idea.[/quote]

Thank you for your suggestion of the long screwdriver. Based on your input I decided to purchase 2 3ft lengths of 1/2″ square aluminum stock. My plan is to tape to each end the OTC 4460 tool. The bent forked end of the tool will allow me to support the bottom and back of the electrical connector and the regular forked end of the other tool will allow me to disconnect the electrical fitting. That is the plan. I won’t be able to execute it for a couple of weeks though.

I thought about two 28″ screwdrivers but this square aluminum bar solution is much lighter, only costs $10, and should work.

[EricTheCarGuy]

My first question is why are you replacing the O2 sensor? If you don’t have any codes for it, or performance issues that could be the result of a bad O2, then perhaps leave it alone. That said, I often use these pliers to get to electrical connectors that are difficult to reach.

http://www.jbtoolsales.com/sunex-3703-3-pc-11-hose-gripper-pliers-set/#oid=1002_1

[Robert]

I had the following DTC codes. P0153 – O2 sensor 2/1 slow response, P0137 – O2 sensor 1/2 circuit low. Since both banks are affected, the sensors were $35, and I was under the vehicle for two I decide to do all four.

Thanks for the tool tip.

[EricTheCarGuy]

Cool. Good luck with the job and let us know how things work out for you.

[Robert]

Well, I tried every inexpensive way to create a tool to reach this hard to reach O2 electrical connection.

Today I broke down and purchased a Snap-On 28″ long screwdriver with a narrow shaft and 1/4″ slotted tip – SGD424BR.

Based on everything I have tried and measurements I have taken, this tool looks like the best next step.

[Robert]

[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=116238]Cool. Good luck with the job and let us know how things work out for you.[/quote]

Was able to change the 2/1 O2 sensor. Ended up using three different tools – a 28″ snap on screwdriver, a 10 inch A-N Crescent connector plier A2910N with extensions, and a fabricated tool made out of 1/4 inch square steel rod that was 28″ long. To the end of the 28 inch square rod I taped a small steel L. It looked like a back scratcher.

I taped 1/4 inch square rod extensions to the Crescent wrench to get me reach. That allowed me to reach in and disconnect the electrical plug. I used the 28 inch screwdriver and 28 inch back scratcher together to guide and fit the new O2 sensor plug into the electrical system.

[Jonathan Stiver]

Wow, the O2 sensor connectors are pretty easy and straight forward to get to on that same motor in my ’04 GC. Guess ill stick with my WJs as long as I can.

[Robert]

[quote=”stiv625″ post=118066]Wow, the O2 sensor connectors are pretty easy and straight forward to get to on that same motor in my ’04 GC. Guess ill stick with my WJs as long as I can.[/quote]

Yes. The bear on the WK 4.7L engine is that the plug for the 2/1 sensor is about 20″ above the lowest exhaust pipes. You cannot get your hand up in there or hand with a pair of pliers. I almost gave up on that sensor until I called the Jeep Dealer and they quoted me 2 hours of labor $250 to change that one O2 sensor. That gave me motivation to try again and I was successful.

[Robert]

[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=116136]My first question is why are you replacing the O2 sensor? If you don’t have any codes for it, or performance issues that could be the result of a bad O2, then perhaps leave it alone. That said, I often use these pliers to get to electrical connectors that are difficult to reach.

http://www.jbtoolsales.com/sunex-3703-3-pc-11-hose-gripper-pliers-set/#oid=1002_1%5B/quote%5D

I had the following four trouble codes:

1. P0153 O2 sensor 2/1 slow response
2. P2098 Downstream fuel trim system 2 lean
3. P0137 O2 sensor 1/2 circuit low
4. P2096 Downstream fuel trim system 1 lean

In inspecting the removed O2 sensors compared to the new O2 sensors it was clear that the four white air intake ports on the outside of each sensor were contaminated. Basically, virtually all of the white air intake ports were black with dirt, grit, grime probably from 10 years of driving.

I guess that restricted fresh air flow into the old O2 sensors from the outside air made it appear that the engine was running lean.

With the new sensors installed there are no more codes and short term and long term fuel trims are normal. All is good and I will probably get 1-2 more miles per gallon.

[Author]

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