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Normal procedure you would do with any spark plug, NGK for this car, don’t over tight, and that’s about it.
Do one at a time on a cold engine. check your owners manual
for the correct plug. Which should be NGK. 🙂The day before you do the job get a can of PB Blaster and use the provided straw end to give each plug a short blast where they contact the head and drive as usual for a couple of heat cycles. Then follow the above good advice.
I would strongly recommend a magnetic swivel spark plug socket – I use this one. I’ve had nothing but bad luck with the traditional type of spark plug socket with the rubber insert that’s supposed to hold the plug in place.
Thread the plug in until it’s hand-tight (the knurled section on the shaft of the GearWrench tool makes this easy), then just hook up your ratchet and give it a further half- to three-quarter turn (or whatever the instructions on the plug box say) and you’re done.
Sometimes plugs are really tight. Some “lug” thought that they were lugs.
It just take some experience to know if things are going to break or “break free”. If you don’t have such experience, someone nearby will have it and share.
But here are two tips.
First, make sure you torque out the plug without any sideways bending action. This is hard to explain, but a T-handle with equal length arms, and equal force on those arms, will just torque and not bend the plug. Our usual one arm wrenches apply a very large bending, especially with long extensions used to get into the spark plug well of a DOHC engine. So torque out your plugs, and don’t bend them out.
Second, if after the initial release of the threads, the threads feel as if they’re jamming while being unscrewed, shoot in some penetrating oil, and work the plug in and out until it can come out without difficulty.
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