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Nice vid.
If the gauge takes ages to come up to temp. the stat would be the first place i’d look as you suggested. Although if you don’t have a fancy thermometer simply start the car from cold and keep your hand on the upper hose. if it starts to get warm in a couple of minutes then you know your stat is stuck open. 🙂
Why do thermostats fail?
I’ve never had one fail since owning my first car in 1966.
So I’ve never inspected a fail one.
[quote=”Rereonehundred” post=121616]Why do thermostats fail?
I’ve never had one fail since owning my first car in 1966.
So I’ve never inspected a fail one.[/quote]
They use a bimetallic springs to work. It’s metal. After a while it will fatigue and fail. Kind of a wear part if you will.
This was a great segment. This week my car, 2000 Buick Regal 3.8 non supercharged with 305,xxx miles, had the no heat problem. Started with the basics, checking fluid, bleeding system, check hvac fuses, etc… Still no heat. Back flushed the heater core and what looked and felt like pea gravel came out. I filled the heater core with water and flushed out with air probably around 15 times. Instead of using electrical tape to make a tight connection I used a piece of fuel line. It fit very tight and never had it come out of the heater core line.
Eric the car guy, you rock!!
Perhaps the topic should have been called “an engine that won’t get to operating temprature & P0125 DTC” and of course, won’t get very good heat. Thermostats can be tricky. I have seen them do a lot of weird things. The worse is when they stick sometimes. They will operate normally but occasionally stay closed and overheat the motor. I have seen them stay closed until operating temp, open, and not close again until the engine gets cold. Usually these type of symptoms are caused by an engine with other issues and overheated and the thermostat was not replaced. An overheated engine will boil the wax right out of the core, and it may still work, but not correctly. Rule of thumb is to replace them.
Anytime something cools, it’s saturation point drops, so any deposits will form around where the temprature of the coolant drops, such as a radiator or heater core. Some vehicles the location of the heater core and it’s position make it act almost like a filter for the cooling system. Case in point, Chevy Blazers and S10’s. Almost every time I have flushed out a heater core, I have gotten junk, even in relatively clean cooling systems. Honestly, if you aren’t getting good heat in your vehicle, pull the heater core lines and clean that out, I bet you there is junk in there.
[quote=”Jasonw1178″ post=127897]Perhaps the topic should have been called “an engine that won’t get to operating temprature & P0125 DTC” and of course, won’t get very good heat. Thermostats can be tricky. I have seen them do a lot of weird things. The worse is when they stick sometimes. They will operate normally but occasionally stay closed and overheat the motor. I have seen them stay closed until operating temp, open, and not close again until the engine gets cold. Usually these type of symptoms are caused by an engine with other issues and overheated and the thermostat was not replaced. An overheated engine will boil the wax right out of the core, and it may still work, but not correctly. Rule of thumb is to replace them.
Anytime something cools, it’s saturation point drops, so any deposits will form around where the temprature of the coolant drops, such as a radiator or heater core. Some vehicles the location of the heater core and it’s position make it act almost like a filter for the cooling system. Case in point, Chevy Blazers and S10’s. Almost every time I have flushed out a heater core, I have gotten junk, even in relatively clean cooling systems. Honestly, if you aren’t getting good heat in your vehicle, pull the heater core lines and clean that out, I bet you there is junk in there.[/quote]
As far as key words go, “Solving No Heat Problems” is much more search friendly than your suggestion. I do see your point though.
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