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Hello Eric, or whomever is reading this.
Maybe you did a video on this a while back and I havn’t seen it or maybe not. But I was watching your Car Audio Speaker replacement video, and you talked about doing solder wire connections. I remember you doing a video on how to solder wires together. I remember you said it makes a better connection then the crimp ones, and that you like the solder ones better.I think it would be interesting to go over the pros/cons of solder vs crimp.
Interesting enough to note: In the aviation industry, they prefer crimp connections to solder. Obviously there are limitations to how much and where you can put splices in aircraft wireing, but it’s the by the book proper way to do it. I’ve done both solder and crimp wire splicing on my own car. Personally, I prefer splices. I think it would be interesting to do both, and expose to some diffrent situations ect to see what one really does hold up better. Scientiffic meathod and all.Also, good job on your speaker replacement, it does sound alot better 🙂
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It seems that people missed the boat of what the actual topic is. Its about solder vs crimp for audio connections. Audio frequency flat impatience is important for audio. All the anecdotes were for things of constant frequency or for DC signals.
[quote=”grimsubaru” post=113099]It seems that people missed the boat of what the actual topic is. Its about solder vs crimp for audio connections. Audio frequency flat impatience is important for audio. All the anecdotes were for things of constant frequency or for DC signals.[/quote]
I’m not sure what boat was missed…
For the sake of discussion, let us assume that soldering is the superior connection type in the realm of audio components. My point remains the same. Car audio systems don’t come soldered from end-to-end. So I see little reason to fret about soldering wires onto speaker terminals, when the signal has already passed through non-soldered junctions to reach the speaker in the first place.
That point is valid and needs repeating. If you want high end audio, perhaps your going to need to run some new wires through your door hinge, cause somewhere under the dash is going through a connector. In fact, one should run speaker wire specifically, cause it has capacitance / inductance values that are tuned to its per meter resistance so that frequencies of 10Hz to 20kHz are transmitted optimally flat (frequency response). Since the wires aren’t paired together in the wiring harness, extra effort to make a soldered connection is likely fruitless in terms of maintaining frequency response.
Funny, I just read this article from Bob Pease, one if the worlds top analog circuit designers before up his passing. Here he discusses audiophiles claims they can hear a difference between connections to a speaker.
http://m.electronicdesign.com/archive/whats-all-splicing-stuff-anyhow
[quote=”twiggy02919″ post=113135]Funny, I just read this article from Bob Pease, one if the worlds top analog circuit designers before up his passing. Here he discusses audiophiles claims they can hear a difference between connections to a speaker.
http://m.electronicdesign.com/archive/whats-all-splicing-stuff-anyhow%5B/quote%5D
An interesting read for sure.
You often don’t have the length of wire to do it but where possible I always tie the two wires to be connected with a reef knot before joining the ends either by solder or crimp.
This enables the wire to be pulled with the pulling force going through the knot and not the crimp thus protecting the connection against inadvertent strain.
Kbr
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