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This is advice and should be taken as such I do not accept any liability expressed or implied. I have to write that sentence or people would try to sue me for not using common sense, things out of my control, etc. I am writing it as the same questions seem to be getting asked by the new techs and the DIY guys that want to become technicians. I will try to cover most of the questions and I am taking my time with this to try and make it to the point and not take a lot of time. Here is a playlist of videos that I suggest you watch if you are a serious DIY or want/are going to get into the mechanics/technicians field. There is more stuff that pertains to technicians/mechanics so DIY only guys may need to look through the list. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL-gZT3I9va10kKHyZRdAE-1WnVoGI2QTW
Your Pay
If you are Flat Rate or Hourly your pay will be based off your speed/quality of work. When you are flat rate it is just a lot more apparent. When you are hourly there is normally an incentive to be above a certain percentage with bonus’ once someone exceeds a percentage of 100-110% to 115% and sometimes there are different tiers after this. So if you exceed 115% you would get a bigger bonus. When you are new in a flat rate shop you want to ask about getting paid hourly till you get the hang of things. For new technicians with under a year of experience this is how they run it. Some times it is only for 3-6 months other times its till you can get your efficiency over a certain percentage. They also normally have a minimum in flat rate so basically if you have a horrible week you still get paid for at least 30-36hrs. Efficiency is simply the % of time it took you vs the Standard Repair Time also known as book time. So if you did a job in 4 hrs and it pays 2 you would have 50% efficiency. All your jobs are normally averaged for the day then again at the end of the week. The quality of work also plays a factor shoddy work means they can’t rely on you which often means you get paid less and if you keep it up they kick you to the curb. Sometimes if you are having issues they will partner you up to learn from someone else before that happens though. When you are new they anticipate you not being perfect and also being slow.
Work Ethics
You are going to be ridden regardless. Be aware this is all part of being in a shop it is like a fraternity. If you go complain to the boss its only going to get worse and/or get you fired though they would find a legitimate excuse ie he was late to work once. When you mess something up especially when you are new own up to it. Tell your boss and tell him what you did wrong. If you don’t know what you did wrong ask him to show you or have someone else show you so you don’t do it again. If you don’t know what you did wrong write it down when it is explained to you and review it. This goes a long way in building trust. If you are scared of your boss finding out think about what would happen if you don’t tell him and he finds out later. It is much better to deal with it while the vehicle is still there then not.
Tools and what your Employer Expects
You are new they are not expecting you to roll in there with a 15k toolbox and 30k of tools inside. They some times do not even expect you to have tools. It is a question that is normally asked in an interview and be honest about it. If it is not asked then you may want to address it because if they expect you to have tools and you have none you are going to be sol. When someone is new and say they have tools they normally expect a starter set from sears. A diagonal side cutter. A screwdriver set. Maybe a half inch impact and maybe sockets for the impact.
Buying Tools
When buying Hand Tools buy the best you can afford but, also realize that just because it says Craftsman, Snap-On, Mac, Cornwell, or Matco does not mean it is the best. I am not saying you have to own Snap-On right off the bat or to sink 30k into tools. If you plan on doing this as your career buy tools meant to last your career. Realize right now that every tool can and will break eventually. I don’t care if it was forged on Mt. Olympus or in the fire of Hades by Hephaestus himself its going to break. Not every tool has to be the best of the best to work day in and day out. Things like brake pad quick depth gauges and tire tread depth gauges do not need to be the best of the best. Anything that is easily lost should not be expensive. I constantly loose magnets, inspection mirrors, and flashlights. When you are moving quickly it happens or when you drop them sometimes they land where you can not retrieve them.
Tool Trucks
You need to realize you are going to be paying the tool trucks a portion of your paycheck every week for more then likely the rest of your career normally 10% of what you owe. Find out which one of them is the least like a con man and use him primarily. Things you use every day need to be very good quality ie your wrenches, sockets, ratchets, and pry bars. Things like inspection mirrors and pocket magnets buy cheap because you will loose them. Just because it has tool truck name on it does not mean they made it regardless of what the truck guy says and btw not everything snap-on is made in the usa. Simple example is Snap-On taps and dies are Irwin. Matco Air guns are Ingersol Rand. Craftsman professional driving head prybars are made by Mayhew. Mac snap ring pliers are Wilde. Cornwell Impact guns are Ingersol Rand as well. Regardless of what the Snap-On man says not everything is a lifetime warranty and not everything Snap-On is USA made. You must remember that tool truck guys are salesman plain and simple. They make more money by selling their companies product over anyone else’s brand. They also make a premium on tool boxes. Normally the tool truck guys will also warranty those respective brands because they make it for that company but, do not rely on this ask first. These were the brands at the time of me writing this and are subject to change.
My Advice on Tools
Buy the tool to fit your needs and probable future uses. If it is not a tool that requires precision then it does not require that expensive brand name. Tools that you loose all the time buy the cheapest version that works. Tools that break all the time require a good brand and one that is easily replaced. Tools that you use all the time and break all the time regardless of quality keep 2 of and also assess if a better tool is available. When it comes to tools that need to just work look into industrial brands as well as the tool truck brands. Also check out reviews online, advice from forums, and what mechanics have/use in your shop to do the job.
A simple example of these rules is a magnetic tray from Harbor Freight does the same thing as one from Snap-On and the only difference is about $15 dollars and that is just because the one says Snap-On, it is slightly better quality, and has a warranty. They are also easily lost or run over and $2-4 dollars is a lot cheaper then $15 and a warranty won’t help you if you loose it. This also goes for magnetic pick up tools while having a good/decent brand like Craftsman is good for stronger versions the one you keep in your pocket should be a cheap one such as pepboys or once again Harbor Freight. An example of tools that break all the time are wobble extensions and turbo sockets. These are things that are needed a lot of the time and having a backup of your most used one is recommended to get you till when the tool truck shows up next and can warranty it out.
Jawed turning tools should be used as you would grab something with your hand. What I mean by this is the longer/stronger section should be as your pointer finger would be grabing a pipe and wrapping you one hand around it and trying to rotate it. So rightse tightse – leftse loosie. So when you use the adjustable, pipe wrench, open end of a wrench, monkey wrench, etc the stronger part is applying the force and the weaker part is just keeping you from over rotating. This will keep you from breaking wrenches that adjust to the nut size in whatever fashion as easily and keep you from spreading open end wrenches as easily.
Hammers in my opinion should be hickory handles and make sure the grain is running front to back. The fiberglass handles do not hold up over time and splinter and can be fun to try and change spewing glass fibers everywhere which requires glasses and a face mask, and gloves. Steel handles normally come down to a point even if it’s a smooth point if you miss, which happens everyone makes mistakes, your finger and/or anything else will not appreciate you hitting it. If you feel you will break the wood handle you can measure the circumference of the handle and buy conduit/thin pipe with the same inside circumference. Bend it using a vice or hammer to shape of the handle and heat it with a torch and drive it down till it hits the head using a punch, if necessary, alternating sides with each hit. If replacing a wood handle it is easier to put the conduit/pipe guard on first though you will need to dry fit the head of the tool and mark the bottom so as to install in proper location without obstructing the proper wedging of the handle into the hammer head.
Air tools should be oiled with good quality air tool oil once before use for the day. If using the entire day oil a second time at lunch. Normally 3-4 drops is sufficient though 1/2in air line tools require more 5-6 drops. Also if your air tools take grease you should grease them once every month to two months with Air Tool Grease. This is cheap insurance to keep your air tools running properly. Some people use power steering fluid it works though I use Lucas Air Tool Oil. At the beginning of the day or if you go to another bay make sure to purge the air line of water. If for some reason water gets into your air tool hook up to a dry air line run in forward and reverse till all water is out. Then oil your air tool and run in forward and reverse for 2 mins each direction. Repeat the oiling and running 3 times and this should save your tool from damage.
Ratchets are extremely versatile and in the end you are going to want a set of low profile, Long Handel Flex Head, Stubby Flex 3/8” and 1/2”, Regular. When it comes to ratchets I like quick release because it holds onto the socket/extension and does not allow it to slip easily. When buying quick release you want a low to no profile button. This is so when wrenching in a tight spot it does not get pressed and release the socket and also to allow you in that tight space. The number of teeth you are going to want in every ratchet you own is 72 or more. This is what is known as a fine tooth ratchet and the reason for this is tight locations you need to have less movement between tooth engagements. You are going to also want a true dual pawl. This means inside the ratchet head there is one paw for forward and one paw for reverse. You are also going to want at least 6 teeth engagement. Those two things are normally what dictates whether a ratchet will slip when attempting to tighten or remove a bolt under extreme force. It also dictates how much force can be applied. This is why a good fine tooth ratchet will break less often then a coarse tooth due to the overall surface area of the gears engaged. The other thing to look for is how it feels in your hand. This is going to be the tool you used the most and if it is not comfortable in your hand when you are putting a lot of force on it, it will let you know for the next 3 days. Try and stay away from round metal handle ratchets. You want to opt for something that has a grip that will stand up to chemicals and abuse or metal that is either knurled or slightly square/rectangular in shape. This will greatly reduce your risk of slipping especially when your hands are covered in oil. When buying a flex head ratchet you want to look for the axis to be an adjustable set screw or recessed bolt. The reason for this is if it is just pinned over time it will spread slightly and the head will flop all over the place. When it comes to low profile ratchets a thin handle can be good but, it also has the down side of hurting you hand when applying force so beware. The main ratchets you use daily should be cleaned and lubed every 6 months. You can apply a thin layer of, thin silicone grease or lubriplate to the gear faces. The rest of the ratchet should be oiled with a light weight oil 10 or under. I use Sili-Kroil because it leaves a layer of silicone behind which helps prevent dirt from sticking to parts and also adds another layer of rust prevention. For the ratchets you do not use daily you should oil them once a year following the advice above. When using a ratchet if you are going to put a pipe on it stop and grab a breaker bar and use that.
Tool boxes are normally a thing of great debate. If you are in a large shop and have to move either from time to time or all the time you are going to need a tool truck brand toolbox or an industrial toolbox from a place like sears. The reason for this is they are welded and the wheels are greaseable and meant to take the constant movement with a lot of weight in them. Regardless of who makes the toolbox you are going to want to check out the weight rating of the entire box and also the weight rating of the individual drawers. Most heavy DIY and mechanics are going to overload their drawers especially when a new to it. This is mainly because bigger boxes cost a premium. If you are a DIY and/or mechanic I would suggest starting out with a tool cart. This is great because when you upgrade to a proper tool box you then have a tool cart you can use to keep all the stuff you use on a daily basis. If your tool box sits in one spot all the time you may be able to get away with a cheaper box but, remember drawer weight rating. I would suggest getting only boxes with dual roller bearing slides. This will make opening and closing the drawers much easier. If you are in a shop that requires you move your tool box a lot or for your cart every 6 months you want to lube your wheels/drawers. If it does not move often once a year is normally ok. To lube your toolbox wheels if it has grease fittings use them if it does not try to use a penetrating oil to get on the shaft and ball bearings for the wheels. For ball bearing drawers oil can be used but, I would suggest graphite or silicone powder. If you use a dry lube you must apply then roll 1/3 of the way and repeat 3 times. This may require you removing the drawers. The advantage to a dry lube though is it does not trap dust and dirt as easily making it less likely to gum up in the future. For non ball bearing slide type drawers. Apply grease to the friction areas.
Torque Wrenches are very important. With that being said does everything need to be torqued? Well lets put it this way in a perfect world you would never have any dirt, debri, or rust/corrosion in your threads. This is exactly where Engineer’s Live is in this perfect little world. So what needs to be torqued. Well this is a matter of great debate among mechanics and technicians. There is anything to do with the engine, transmission, axles, SRS components, seats, and wheels. Then there are those that believe everything should be torqued and somewhere between their first and second oil change they realize the torque spec for filter’s doesn’t work. It is simply not feasible to torque every fastener so you have to find what you are comfortable with. When starting out I suggest you torque anything you think you can break. This will get you a feel for how tight things should be. Most technicians and I assume most serious DIY guys will develop a feel for when the bolt starts to stretch. They then normally go 1/16th to 1/8th past that. Some even go 1 flat on hex bolts which is 1/6th though I have found that when people go past 1/8th it often leads to snapped bolts on things that have been removed more then once or twice. Also when you have gaskets/seals/o-rings you cannot always trust what you are feeling because you may just be feeling resistance from those items. This also steepens the learning curve. Using a torque wrench there are now 4 main styles. Deflecting Beam this uses a beam that flexes as you use it. Click type which uses a ball detent with a spring that is winded/unwinded by turning the handle. It then clicks as the ball is moved off the top of the spring. Electronic torque wrench which uses a strain gauge attached to the handle. Electronic torque wrench with angle reading it also uses a strain gauge but, at the same time uses a gyroscope to measure the angle past the snug point. I prefer the click type batteries always make me wonder how accurate it is and the beam type can be a pain if your muscles are straining as that reading point will keep bouncing. The beam type rarely goes out of calibration it takes a ridiculously large number of uses and it automatically reverts to zero after use. The click type and most electronic types you need to set the handle back to the lowest setting. On the mechanical types some guys even like to go one or 2 full turns past the lowest setting. The point is you don’t want the spring under tension when you are using the click type as for the electronic type I am not quite sure all I know is the instructions always tell you too. Read the directions when you get the tool they are your best bet to keeping it proper and working. Never use a torque wrench to tighten or loosen past what it is set at. So once it click, beeps, or vibrates stop. If you need a little more or a little less use a ratchet, breaker bar, or T-handle just not the torque wrench. If you do it will make the torque wrench go out of spec very quickly.
Torque Sticks vary wildly in their accuracy. They are normally only guaranteed to within +/- 10-15% which is a large margin of error especially for the higher torque ones. I personally do not use them and do not like to use them when instructed. If I do use these I normally use one that is under the specified setting and then just use a torque wrench afterwards.
Combination Wrenches these are your bread and butter. There is rarely a time that you cannot get a wrench into a place. They can be used in place of ratchets and sockets in most cases. You need them to be able to run bolts and nuts up with impacts and such. When it comes to these you want to get a starter set that is the best you can afford. I would stay away from Craftsman unless you can get an older set around 1970s should be a -V- marking on it. I would say a good starter brand is GearWrench unless you have the money to buy Snap-On or some other high quality brand. Most mechanics use Snap-On atm though I have yet to find a set I like or works for me. When I buy wrenches I want something that is wide enough it doesn’t feel like I am breaking my bones or separating my joints when I pull really hard on them.
Older tools can be extremely good. Stuff built between 1950 to 1970 seems to be made out of good quality steel if it is a well known name brand especially for back in that time. Craftsman tools from that era are equivalent or better then Snap-On now in some cases. Here is a link to a website identifying Craftsman markings to give you an idea of date of manufacture and quality. https://home.comcast.net/~alloy-artifacts/craftsman-early-tools.html Snap-On back then was not as good as Snap-On now from what I have heard from other mechanics. Remember if it has a lifetime warranty it can always be traded in as long as they still make it. But, before you do this I would suggest attempting to clean the tool up and if it needs minor repairs to do that. CLR from what I have heard is amazing at removing rust off older tools without damaging them much if at all. Though obviously stuff that is not all metal or is painted would probably be damaged. You need to use some common sense when working with older tools. I have Craftsman round head fine tooth ratchets that put newer ones to shame and I had to buy the 3/8 drive one off ebay but, it only cost me 14 bucks which is about what you would pay for a cheap one now anyway. The difference is it is built to be used heavily as most older ratchets were due to the lack of air/electric tools being used and/or developed at that time. Remember when you get ratchets to clean the internals thoroughly and lube them as stated in the ratchet section.
Long term storage of tools requires some fore thought. While I have not tried all of these methods they are something that should be thought about and any advice would be appreciated. Rust/Corrosion/ Dry rot are what you are trying to fight. Impact sockets/adapters/universals/extensions need to be misted with oil or stored in old oil if for extremely long periods of time. This goes for anything else that is a bare metal. You should also consider putting them in a plastic bag such as 2 trash bags or seal type bags. Air tools should be oiled and air with as little moisture as possible run through them running the tool in either direction 1 full rotation each way. This will insure a good coating of oil. Then all openings and grease points should be taped over with a tape that will help seal out air and prevent rusting. Anything chrome that is nicked up bad should get the same treatment as the impact tools. Electric tools should be run till warm but, not so warm as to melt the plastic bag you put them in same rules as above 2 trash bags or seal type bags. The heat should help to evaporate any moisture left inside the bag. Extension cords, electric tool plugs, anything with a terminal should be taped over with a tape that is sticky enough to stay for a long period of time. I suggest 3M Electrical or packaging tape for taping things up also remember that the surface needs to be clean for the tape to stick well. For hammers I would suggest using a good oil like linseed oil on the handle and spraying a thin layer of a sealant paint meant for steel and paint on the head. Wipe the excess oil away and then put it inside of the plastic bags same deal as before. For ratchets clean and lube the inside with oil and once again plastic bag them. With all the bags try and get out as much air as possible and tape over any openings or seals with tape. Keep the tools in a cool, dry, dark place. Doing this is a great way to keep any tools that are going into storage in good/like new condition.
Tool Brands
While brands are a good thing and can point you in the direction of knowing a tool is of good quality. Beware the ease to fall into fanboyism just because something has a brand name does not mean it is good. A simple way to know which brand is good for what can be rather simple at times. If someone asks you for a pair of Channel Locks most people know these are tongue and groove pliers. Well that tells you what brand to buy for that and same goes for Crescent Wrenches as they are actually Adjustable Wrenches. Other things such as needle nose pliers though there is no definitive winner. I use Channel Locks as I was told by my dad they were the best and I have yet to find a pair that really stands up to the abuse that they do. When it comes to electrical tools for crimping, cutting, and stripping Klien is the way to go. There is no competition. They do cost more but, they are made to do it all day long and I have tried many other brands nothing compares. Most other brands the handles will twist when you attempt to cut things especially with those all in one cutter, crimper, stripper.
Here is a list of brands and their affiliates.
Suggested Brands
I am only listing what I have used and works or seen used by technicians extensively.
Combination Wrenches – Gear Wrench, Snap-On
Combination Wrenches (Flat Side Prying) – Snap-On Flank Drive
Stubby Combination – Craftsman Professional 34956, Snap-On
Jumbo Combination Wrenches – Sunex
Ratcheting Combination Wrenches – Gear Wrench (They are stronger then any other)
Long Flex Double Ratcheting Box End Offset Spline – Mountain or E-Z Red
Screwdrivers – Craftsman
Fine Tooth Ratchets – Gear Wrench, Snap-On
Quick Release Fine Tooth Ratchets – Craftsman 44992
Low Profile Fine Tooth Ratchets – Craftsman 44992
Long Handel Quick Release Flex Head Ratchet – Expert, Snap-On (Button sticks out), (Do not buy Mac)
3/4” Drive Ratchet – Craftsman (Try to get USA), Snap-On
6’ 3/4” Torque Wrench – Snap-On, Gear Wrench
Rotating Head Ratchet – Gear Wrench Roto
Socket 4 Rail Tray – Mac SH4448, Vim V444 (Steel clips rarely break and are cheap)
Wrench Organizers (V Shaped Rubbery Plastic) – Vim VS14 (15 Slot)
Impact Sockets – Craftsman (USA Only), Grey Pneumatic
Impact Sockets (Flat Side Grabbing) – Snap-On Flank Drive, Grey Pneumatic 6s
Impact Ball Universal – Craftsman (USA Only), Snap-On, Grey Pneumatic
Impact Extensions – Craftsman (USA Only), Grey Pneumatic
Impact Adapters – Craftsman (USA Only), Grey Pneumatic, Pittsburgh (If need Cheap)
Impact Wobble Extensions – Grey Pneumatic (Discontinued, Can only use on Impact of that drive Size)
Breaker Bars – Craftsman, Snap-On
Speed Wrenches – Craftsman Speeder, JC Penny (Discontinued)
Picks – Set of each – Snap-On, Craftsman (Good Starter), Great Neck (Pepboys)
Hose Picks – Mayhew Dominator 60008 (4 short) or 60002 (3 short + 3 long)
Lady Slipper – Mayhew Ladyfoot (All others are welded and break at shaft to foot)
Spud Bar – Mayhew Line-Up Pry Bar
Chisels – Mayhew (Craftsman are junk)
Punches – Mayhew (Craftsman are junk)
Center Punches – Mayhew (Craftsman are junk)
Automatic Center Punch – Pittsburgh Professional 621
Prybar – Craftsman Professional 61355-998, Mayhew Dominator
Drilling, Blacksmith, Engineer Hammers – Craftsman, Vaughan, Estwing, Plumb
Deadblows – Snap-On, Expert
Electric Engraver – Dremel
Tape Measure – Snap-On TPMA25EM (Inches/Metric), Husky, Stanley
Vernier Dial Caliper – Starett (Expensive), Fowler Dual Read (.001” and .02mm)
Steel Rules – Starett
Pocket Ruler – Empire 6”
Chrome Sockets – Snap-On, Craftsman 6pt (Starting Only)
Hex L Keys- Ball End Only – Allen (Best), Craftsman
Torx L Keys – Allen
Torx, Allen, Inverted Torx Sockets – Craftsman 34845
Mechanic’s Stethoscope – KD Tools 835 (Old not egg shaped)
Cutter, Stripper, Crimper Electrical Tool – Klien 1010 (Perfect starter)
Wire Stripper/Cutter 22-32 AWG – Klien 11057 (Allows Smaller then 1010)
Wire Stripper/Cutter 12-20 AWG – Klien 1105 (For tight places same as 1010 AWG)
Wire Stripper/Cutter 6-12 AWG – Klien 11053 (Allows Larger then 1010)
Wire Crimper/Cutter 10-22 AWG – Klien 1005 (For tight places)
Pencil Soldering Iron – Radioshack 64-2071 (For Circuit Boards)
Torch Soldering Iron – Bernzomatic ST250K (Requires lighter to light)
Propane/Map Torch – Bernzomatic TS8000 Surefire
Solder – Radioshack Rosin-Core .05 diameter Lead Free (Smaller Diameter Better)
Silver Solder – Radioshack .015 diameter Lead Free (Smaller Diameter Better)
De-Soldering Braid – Radioshack 64-2090 (Used for circuit Boards)
Tip Tinner – Radioshack 64-020 (Used for Solder Irons to Protect/Clean tips)
Soldering Iron Holder – Radioshack 64-2078 (Prevents Pencil Iron from burning things)
Heat Blanket – Oatey, Bernzomatic (Protective Blanket to protect behind Propane Torch)
Digital Multi Meters – Bluepoint DMSC683A, Fluke, Extech
Test Light – Cen-Tech 30779
IR Thermometer – Cen-Tech 60725 (Remove batteries when not using)
Magnetic Dial Indicator Base – Pittsburgh 5645
Magnetic Dish – Pittsburgh Automotive
Adjustable Wrenches – Crescent, J H Williams, Snap-On (Do not buy Slide type)
Tongue + Groove Pliers – Channel Lock
Needle Nose – Channel Lock
Mini Needle Nose – Craftsman
Linesman Pliers – Channel Lock, Klien
Slip Joint Pliers – Craftsman
Locking Pliers – Irwin Visegrip
Diagonal Side Cutters – Knipex
Filter Pliers – Pittsburgh Automotive
Strap Filter Wrench – Rigid
Aviation Snips – Wiss
Oil Filter Claw – Bluepoint FWA62121A (No One else’s lasts professionally)
Heavy Duty 10 AWG Extension Cord – Harbor Freight 93674
Hand Vac – Mityvac MV8000 (DIY), Mityvac MV8500 (Technicians)
Automotive Floor Jack – Torin Big Red T83318
Screwdrivers – Craftsman 31798
Micro Screwdrivers – Craftsman 41105
Mini Torx Screwdrivers – Craftsman 41105, Snap-On
Ratcheting Screwdriver – Craftsman 47144
Bit Sets – Craftsman 26535
Creepers – Lisle Jeepers Creeper 92102 (DIY), Matco (Jeepers Creeper for Technicians)
Torque Wrench – Craftsman (DIY or Starting Tech), Snap-On, GearWrench
Pipe Wrench – Rigid (Steel Versions rarely bend with pipe on the handle)
Monkey Wrench/Gas Grips – Crescent Auto Wrench, Rigid Spud Wrench 31400
Telescoping Magnetic Pickup Tool Pocket – Pittsburgh
Telescoping Magnetic Pickup Tool – Craftsman 4132
Drop Light – Philips 22002X1
UV HVAC Light/Glasses – Mastercool 53512-UV
Upholstry Tool (Used for Interriors) – Mayhew, Mac
Flat Blade Razor Blade Scraper Short – Stanley
Retractable Razor Blade Knife – Stanley 99E
Wire Brushes – Harbor Freight, Lincoln Electric
Air Impacts – Snap-On, Ingersoll Rand, Air Cat
Air Ratchets – Campbell Hausfeld (Starter), Ingersoll Rand, Astro Pneumatic
Air Angle Die Grinder – Chicago Pneumatic
Air Cut-off Tool – Chicago Pneumatic
Air Tool Oil – Lucas
Air Tool Grease – Ingersoll Rand
Rubber Tip Blow Nozzle – Amflo
Truck/RV Tire Pressure Gauge – Pittsburgh Automotive
Dual Chuck Tire Inflator – Central pneumatic (Brass End Non-Gauge)
Electric Impacts (Battery) – Milwaukee, Snap-On
Electric Drills (Battery/Corded) – Milwaukee, Makita
Penetrating Oil – PB Blaster, Sili-Kroil (Has Silicone)
Assembly Lube – Lubriplate
Tool Boxes – Snap-On, Mac, Matco, Cornwell, Craftsman Industrial (With optional slides)
Tool Carts – US General Pro (Starter), Snap-On, Mac, Matco, Cornwell
Leather Gloves – 1 thick pair, 1 thin pair, 1 spare of each, rough leather for grip
Nitrile Gloves – Midknight
Cloth /w Rubber Palm/Fingers – MadGrip (Do not use with solvents, ok in the cold)If you find any spelling errors or incorrect words pm me i will fix it.
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Tool Reviews
One has to be weary where one gets advice about tools from. One of the easiest ways to get info tools for tool trucks is to pit one tool truck against another complaining about tools they make that have issues. You would be surprised the info you learn this way. Hey its a dog eat dog world out there and I gotta eat.
Another great way is by actual reviews by actual mechanics. Talk to the guys in the shop. To people that have been doing it a long time that seem to have their head screwed on straight or are highly analytical.
Videos there are some pretty good tool review people out there on the interweb that upload videos of tools and do tool reviews. You need to make sure of where you are getting your info by judging if they are using the tools real world or not and if they are out to just get free tools. Some of the videos/channels listed are not only just tool review channels.
Some good tool Video Reviews:
Real Tool Reviews – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCa8H6C6yH3e8twF5RpdFgyg
Tools in Action (Okay lacks real world evidence) – https://www.youtube.com/user/pptgtool
Ericthecarguy – https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSzhQ6St-ov2lSNS9aE2v_syTniyOkvP4
Sparky (Electrical tools) – https://www.youtube.com/user/wpm44/featured
Wranglerstar (Axes, Woodworkng, Shop Tools) – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMIjEnXruVHtvgSVf6TgfUgTool Review Websites:
Eric the Car Guy Tool Section
The Garage Journal – http://www.garagejournal.com/
Tool Guy’d – http://toolguyd.com/Then there is always using the reviews left on amazon, craftsman/sears, etc. Reading these can be slightly entertaining and make you realize just how dumb people are, and of course tell you if stuff will probably break.
I hope to update these lists with more stuff but, I find a lot of the websites/people to be fake or bias.
If you find yourself going tool hunting for older tools a would highly highly suggest a look at this website.
On the vehicle Air Lines
Some light duty vehicles and higher end vehicles have air lines for on the vehicle for air ride and in light duty diesels sometimes air brakes. Most manufacturers especially in the diesel world use quick disconnect. A lot of people will spend money on tools to disconnect the lines. I have found those tools to work just as well as wrench. You will find if you use the open end of a wrench you get plenty of leverage on it to compress the brass collar and release the line.
Disconnecting air lines
Though it never really goes that easy so some simple steps before attempting to disconnect. Make sure there is no air pressure on that part of the system. If there is air pressure drain it and be ware of one way check valves holding air in. Clean out behind the fitting. In most cases so long as it isn’t ground in dirt or baked in dirt shop air from a blow nozzle should work. If wet or baked/ground in use a small pick I prefer the round or snaked style for this. Then hit it with a plastic friendly penetrating oil; I use PB Blaster for this. Then push the brass collar in with the appropriate wrench and push the line in first then pull out. You may need to spin it back and forth slightly as you pull out. This will get the lines undone rather quickly.Quick tps for finding leaks
Finding air leaks is part art, knowledge, patience, and really good auditory awareness. Quickest way to narrow down an air leak is to listen for it. This is not easy at all by any stretch of the imagination especially in a noisy shop or right next to a leaking air hose. If you can let the people around you know you are trying to listen and maybe ask them to take a smoke/soda/coffee break while you listen. Turn your head back and forth and listen to which side it sounds like it is coming from and narrow it down. Once you got it narrowed down use soapy water approx 3/4″-1″ of Dawn Original (Not Ultra) in the bottom of a spray bottle filled with water is the best version I have had yet. I buy the Dawn in bulk from a wholesale place for like $8 a gallon lasts forever. Look for bubbles and use a flashlight.Loud Leaks – Ear Plugs mandatory just like Nascar 😛
For excessively leaking air lines. Use a flashlight and soapy water and just mist the area and use the flashlight to reflect the soapy water mist and watch the movement to trace it back. Normally with excessive leaks it is easy to find but,sometimes its so violent and can be bouncing off of things like frames, body panels, and engine blocks and give you a false reading so be sure before you “fix” a problem. Also you can let the pressure die down some and it will form the bubbles once again.Quite Leaks – SSSSsshhhhh This is a library. 😛
For excessively quite leaks or hard to locate leaks. Make sure to get the pressure up to operating pressure and keep doing this every 2-3 mins. There are these expensive headphones you can buy that are like $150 bucks or you can just use a $1 dollar funnel small end towards your ear. Though transmission funnels do work the best. (Not in it. *facepalm* I know there may not be a lot in there but, no need to go poking at what is there. 😛 ) Then once you have narrowed down the general area you can use a hose to figure out exactly where it is coming from. Harder plastic lines work better for this because they will allow the sound to bounce in the tube/hose.Acoustics/Phantom Sounds
Be aware of the Acoustics of the vehicle you are working on. Sound can travel down tubes and channels and make it sound like it is coming from one location when it is actually on the other end of that tube or channel. Also anything that is a solid hard surface can allow sound to bounce off of it. It is like shooting a laser at a mirror. So if you get good enough with hearing for the volume level of the sound you can actually follow the bounce back and find your leak. The exact opposite is true with foam padding or curved shapes they will absorb sound and deaden it making it harder to hear. It is like shooting a laser at a mat or non glossy black surface. If you can even see the laser it will be very faint.Proper Routing/Obvious Problems
Routing air lines is much like bending brake lines. You do not want any sharp turns, kinks , or tight bends. You also do not want the air line to be anything but going in straight into a quick disconnect because road vibration will cause them to leak if not 5 mins down the road (Especially in PA and NJ). Also as with wiring you do not want the air lines to rub against anything regardless of whether they are steel or plastic they easily rub through because the air pressure causes them to vibrate slightly and also to flex some metal a lot less then plastic but…. If you need to zip tie them do your normal O zip tie but, leave it slightly loose then zip tie in the middle so it now looks like 8. This gives you an instant stand off which will keep them from rubbing at the thickness of the ziptie in the center creating the 8.Installation
When installing air lines make sure the air lines are are cut straight on the end aka this: | not / or or Z or Y or X. Straight and don’t tell me I forgot S because I know you guys can be that creative with your razor knife a straight perpendicular cut. Also whenever possible use the old style with the collar over the line and the nut that crushes the collar into the line. They leak a lot less often and are a hell of a lot stronger. Make sure if using quick disconnects the line is fully seated because they have a nasty habit of feeling like it but, are really only 1/4- 1/3 of the way in. If you are removing a line that has been leaking whenever possible cut off the old part of the line where the crimp/teethwas depending on collared vs quick disconnect because often it will leak again because of a looser fit and/or it sliding out or being crushed too far in case of the collar type.Common Problems
Things that are prone to leaking are cab/air bags. These tend to leak the most mainly due to road debri bombarding them. Next after these is the valves that control them because of the constant adjustment they tend to wear out the seals and leak and/or crack. Then next would be any tight routing spots and/or rub spots. Another place is any dessicant/water filter since they sometimes go bad, aren’t installed tightly, o-ring fails, overfull and burst etc, etc. If you find oil in the system and it is an oil based compressor your compressor internally the seals/gaskets are shot.Water/Ice
If you are operating in cold temperatures you need to be aware there will be some moisture that gets past the filters and when it freezes not if it can really really mess up the system. One way of dealing with this is denatured alcohol though they have many brand name air line antifreeze that are essentially alcohol. It will absorb the water and it will not freeze easily at all. (Think about it does the vodka in the freezer freeze. What do you mean you don’t have vodka in your freezer blasphemer.) Also be aware in humid/rainy climates you will need to change the water/desiccant filter more often and you people in Arizona (Desert) probably very rarely if ever. Also anytime you have a reservoir come in first thing you should do is drain it or attempt to drain it. If you get a butt load of water replace the filter. If you get a butt load of coolant replace your compressor. If you get a butt load of alcohol do not drink it you till go blind and once again replace the filter.
And that’s all I have to say about that. 😛
I have found an excellent reviewer of all kinds of things. He actually gets in deep really deep into what he is working on and explaining why things go fubar fast.
Some Examples:
Wait??????????, you have to bring you’re own tools to the shop? That’s em kinda weird?? :unsure: how do i say it, over here my employer buys the tools we need. We have 6 technicans in the workshop ( we have 12 shops in total), and each and every one has there one set of tools…. So kinda suprised that you guys have to buy youre own tools :ohmy: :dry:
Yeah in the USA corporate greed makes it so you have to have your own tools 95-98% of the time. Shop tools are normally used abused and put away broken and specialty tools normally are the same but, are supposed to be provided. Hell the last 2 yrs I had to make tools before my brand actually made them because they put out the vehicles before the tooling. We are lucky if we see it 6mo later.
Not every brand is like that but…..
[quote=”MDK22″ post=131546]Yeah in the USA corporate greed makes it so you have to have your own tools 95-98% of the time. Shop tools are normally used abused and put away broken and specialty tools normally are the same but, are supposed to be provided. Hell the last 2 yrs I had to make tools before my brand actually made them because they put out the vehicles before the tooling. We are lucky if we see it 6mo later.
Not every brand is like that but…..[/quote] With respect, I believe it has more to do with what my dad told me: People were stealing and breaking tools left and right so shops had no choice but to force techs to bring their own tools. This practice has been adopted going back to the 70s according to my dad and since then, more and more shops here in the USA have adopted the practice. An investment of tools also shows dedication and an investment in your career.
[quote=”Chevyman21″ post=131547][quote=”MDK22″ post=131546]Yeah in the USA corporate greed makes it so you have to have your own tools 95-98% of the time. Shop tools are normally used abused and put away broken and specialty tools normally are the same but, are supposed to be provided. Hell the last 2 yrs I had to make tools before my brand actually made them because they put out the vehicles before the tooling. We are lucky if we see it 6mo later.
Not every brand is like that but…..[/quote] With respect, I believe it has more to do with what my dad told me: People were stealing and breaking tools left and right so shops had no choice but to force techs to bring their own tools. This practice has been adopted going back to the 70s according to my dad and since then, more and more shops here in the USA have adopted the practice. An investment of tools also shows dedication and an investment in your career.[/quote]
At my dealership they tried doing the TXM (Toyota Express Maintenance) program for the lube techs. The idea was for two techs to be assigned to each bay while dividing up the inspection procedure and sharing shop supplied tools. Not only did the program itself not last, most of the shop supplied tools ended up broken and missing. Now Toyota is pushing to bring TXM back. I guess they didn’t learn the first time around that 2 guys to 1 car isn’t efficient and tools are only treated well when they are your own.
[quote=”MDK22″ post=131546]Yeah in the USA corporate greed makes it so you have to have your own tools 95-98% of the time. Shop tools are normally used abused and put away broken and specialty tools normally are the same but, are supposed to be provided. Hell the last 2 yrs I had to make tools before my brand actually made them because they put out the vehicles before the tooling. We are lucky if we see it 6mo later.
Not every brand is like that but…..[/quote]
Oh, putting new cars ob the road before the tools and even technical documentation or training happens also here :sick: . I have a brand new, wont say the make and type, car, whit a fault, so i have to call the hottline, and they dont have the documention either, so we cant deliver the car to the costumer….
[quote=”Chevyman21″ post=131547][quote=”MDK22″ post=131546]Yeah in the USA corporate greed makes it so you have to have your own tools 95-98% of the time. Shop tools are normally used abused and put away broken and specialty tools normally are the same but, are supposed to be provided. Hell the last 2 yrs I had to make tools before my brand actually made them because they put out the vehicles before the tooling. We are lucky if we see it 6mo later.
Not every brand is like that but…..[/quote] With respect, I believe it has more to do with what my dad told me: People were stealing and breaking tools left and right so shops had no choice but to force techs to bring their own tools. This practice has been adopted going back to the 70s according to my dad and since then, more and more shops here in the USA have adopted the practice. An investment of tools also shows dedication and an investment in your career.[/quote]
Nope, that is more a mind set of the people that work whit the tools, at the end of every day i clean my tools, and workcar bench, laptop etc, ( so, its after 5 ( i work from 07:30 to 17:00)), and make sure there all in place. If there is some thing broken i reqeust a new one from my suprivisor, and get one. I think that hapens 3 to 4 times a year.
[quote=”Dutchie” post=131633][quote=”Chevyman21″ post=131547][quote=”MDK22″ post=131546]Yeah in the USA corporate greed makes it so you have to have your own tools 95-98% of the time. Shop tools are normally used abused and put away broken and specialty tools normally are the same but, are supposed to be provided. Hell the last 2 yrs I had to make tools before my brand actually made them because they put out the vehicles before the tooling. We are lucky if we see it 6mo later.
Not every brand is like that but…..[/quote] With respect, I believe it has more to do with what my dad told me: People were stealing and breaking tools left and right so shops had no choice but to force techs to bring their own tools. This practice has been adopted going back to the 70s according to my dad and since then, more and more shops here in the USA have adopted the practice. An investment of tools also shows dedication and an investment in your career.[/quote]
Nope, that is more a mind set of the people that work whit the tools, at the end of every day i clean my tools, and workcar bench, laptop etc, ( so, its after 5 ( i work from 07:30 to 17:00)), and make sure there all in place. If there is some thing broken i reqeust a new one from my suprivisor, and get one. I think that hapens 3 to 4 times a year.[/quote] Here is different, different people different culture. Consider this, let’s take a small independent shop for the sake of discussion. Over the course of the year, 5 techs break 4 tools each. Now, lets just say the same tool broke 4 times for all of them for simplicity of discussion. This tool cost $100. That would be $2000 at the end of the year EXTRA that a shop owner would have to foot for each tool each tech broke. To me, that doesn’t seem right. How are you supposed to run a business like that, and still give your workers benefits and fair wages among other shop expenditures? Now, factor in that the tools were abused because it was owned by the shop and not an individual tech. If the tech owns it, he will be more determined to take care of it. Or, the tool was intentionally broken. I don’t see it as fair to shop owners. Back in the 50s and 60s, the culture here(the USA was different, people actually cared and there was MUCH less crime. Times were good, and they changed, so the shops had to change with them.
I agree and disagree at the same time. If the company bought all the tools for every mechanic yes there would be a lot more invested true. If are numbered and that number correlates to the same tech day in and day out you know who breaks the tools. You also know who is using the tool wrong as well. This allows you to either buy a better tool, scold the worker, or teach the worker the proper way and if he breaks it again he buys it.
It also allows the dealerships to call out the manufacturer when they put stuff in places where you need wobble sockets/extensions etc. Ever notice how the older stuff a lot of it you did not need special stuff like that. The reason why is because of this. Also when companies start putting out shit quality companies would stop buying or threaten to force the tool manufacturers to make stuff of quality.
So what it boils down too is companies not wanting to shell out the money. It is a little different with specialty tools because they are expensive but, that is where you can use a part/warehouse worker to sign in and sign out tools or a foreman and keep them locked up. It is pretty gd simple. It is also the way things used to be done.
So while I do agree society cares less and people avoid conflict etc. The driving actor is money hands down. The tool companies can charge more because they have you over a barrel and the manufacturers/shops don’t have to shell out a lot of money.
[quote=”MDK22″ post=131729]I agree and disagree at the same time. If the company bought all the tools for every mechanic yes there would be a lot more invested true. If are numbered and that number correlates to the same tech day in and day out you know who breaks the tools. You also know who is using the tool wrong as well. This allows you to either buy a better tool, scold the worker, or teach the worker the proper way and if he breaks it again he buys it.
It also allows the dealerships to call out the manufacturer when they put stuff in places where you need wobble sockets/extensions etc. Ever notice how the older stuff a lot of it you did not need special stuff like that. The reason why is because of this. Also when companies start putting out shit quality companies would stop buying or threaten to force the tool manufacturers to make stuff of quality.
So what it boils down too is companies not wanting to shell out the money. It is a little different with specialty tools because they are expensive but, that is where you can use a part/warehouse worker to sign in and sign out tools or a foreman and keep them locked up. It is pretty gd simple. It is also the way things used to be done.
So while I do agree society cares less and people avoid conflict etc. The driving actor is money hands down. The tool companies can charge more because they have you over a barrel and the manufacturers/shops don’t have to shell out a lot of money.[/quote] A dealership is one thing, an independent shop is another. A small shop in this day and age could not afford such an expenditure. A dealership is bigger and has the manufacturer support. Small shops already are at a disadvantage, why add to it? Expensive tools are an exception, like a Modis or a GM Tech 2 for example. Those should be shop supplied and shop accounted for. Things have changed bigtime. In the old days at an independent shop, all you needed was basic hand tools and shop equipment(lifts, presses etc) and costs were lower in general, less regulations etc. Now, there are more regulations, expenses etc for a small shop to deal with as well as more complex cars that require fancy equipment. Comparing tool policy to the 50s and 60s is like comparing apples and oranges. Things had to change
EDIT: Also, a dealership has more ability to account for every tool in the shop, for a small indepandt shop, that would require an investment in software, and an administrator for said software or paying someone extra to take inventory at the end of the night. A business is in business to make money. We need to look at it from the business owners point of view as well as our own as techs. The owner still needs to feed his family too.
An independent shop still might be able to make it work. You have to realize they would be paying just like we pay a tool man it wouldn’t be an all at once expenditure. You also have to realize if they are buying in bulk there is going to be a discount. You would be looking at prices like that of a student where everything is 50% what we pay.
[quote=”MDK22″ post=131803]An independent shop still might be able to make it work. You have to realize they would be paying just like we pay a tool man it wouldn’t be an all at once expenditure. You also have to realize if they are buying in bulk there is going to be a discount. You would be looking at prices like that of a student where everything is 50% what we pay.[/quote] Good points, good points. It would have to be well thought out and planned. Run the numbers and see if they add up. Independent shops, if they are not franchise or chain, do have a much harder time than say a dealer or chain shop. There would have to be an initial investment of scan tools, lifts, shop equipment, permits, an administrator etc. Getting a shop going already takes alot of investment. If a shop were to supply basic tools alone, that would be another giant investment. I just think it’d be hard to get a business going that way. Maybe as the business gets more established with stable technicians it may be a viable option but again, it would have to be planned out well.
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