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Your right it shouldn’t be leaking at all.
It should be sliding.
It shouldn’t be wiggling as much as it is.
Buy a new caliper and take that one to bits and see what’s going on with the slide pin. We can already establish that the seals are leaking.
Years ago DoT 3 and DoT 4 brake fluid were made of mineral oil/synthetic oil. The composition of the seals mattered. So just double check that your not using very very old DoT 3 or another mineral oil based brake fluid.
Also to replace it you don’t need to get that pin out. The whole caliper will be bolted to the wheel station with 2 more bolts that you haven’t touched yet.
The caliper will probably only slide out in one position too.
oh i’ve had the bracket bolts off and on like 6 times hahaha (i try all sorts of whacky crap before admitting defeat and asking for help)
I got a cardone reman caliper from advanced 55bucks with the bracket… now im just scared I’ll drain the fluid out and have a bad day refilling.
read a couple places that the fuel hose on vice grips (like eric does in his videos) isnt a good idea because it still stresses the hose and can weaken it.
still about to go buy fuel hose and try it though lol
might try to take apart caliper and see if it just needs new seals.… the store wont care if the core is in pieces right lolEDIT: the slide pin…yeah… we’re not refurbing this thing.
If you don’t clamp the hose the fluid will drain out.
Clamping the hose can damage it.There is a trick that you can try!
When your foot is fully off the clutch fluid is allowed to refil the system. When you press it slightly the master cylinder closes the valve to the reservoir and locks the fluid in the system. If no fluid can get into the top, no fluid will come out of the bottom. So try pushing the brake slightly. You’ll lose a small amount of fluid then it’ll stop.
Be careful when you release te bleed nipple (put a rag over it and watch your eyes and paint)
So before I go to remove the hose put a brick laying on the brake pedal?
hmm maybe a cinder block… bricks are light…
I started to undo the screw on the hose and there was no pressure, just a trickle…
what kind of gasket is supposed to be on there?
Or just wedge it with a bit of wood just to hold it down slightly while you work on it.
There isn’t a gasket on there it just tightens around the thread.
And should stop trickling fluid if the peddle is slightly down. However although I said clamping hoses can damage them personally I never have damaged one so just clamp it carefully if you want to be sure.
oh like the oil pan drain plug ok
im just leery cause theres alot of washers and things in this reman kit that I don’t immediately see where they should go.
[quote=”dosmastr” post=116618]what kind of gasket is supposed to be on there?[/quote]
The box with the new caliper should have a small bag with two copper crush washers in it. They go on both sides of the end of the brake hose and the banjo bolt runs through both of them. These guarantee a seal between the hose end and the caliper itself. There’s a good chance that you’ve got enough dirt, rust, and sediment build up that one crush washer is stuck to the banjo bolt, and the other is stuck to the end of the brake hose. Make sure you remove the old crush washers and clean your mating surfaces before you reassemble everything.
Gotcha!
Now i feel like an idiot…. the clips i got from auto zone dont fit. Like at all!
The ones that came with the reman arent like the old ones either… And im not sure which goes where….
Im not having luck finding my haynes or an exploded view on google and all the youtube videos dont even change these
There might be a snowflake’s chance in hell that autozone error’ed and got you the wrong caliper.
Well put it like this –
I needed the rear passenger caliper and what does autozone’s warehouse do? They sent the one for the driver’s side.Autozone is OK for silly junk like polish, car decor, or fluids but not so much needful things like calipers.
I also learned that the 2.2 and the 3.0 uses SLIGHTLY different sized calipers.
If you just cannot get it to fit, you have the wrong one.Also with pinching hose – I would think that would be taking a chance in harming the hose. I wouldn’t just wedge the pedal though cause as soon as you loosen the line, the pedal COULD bottom out and that is not usually good for it. Maybe put something under the pedal before wedging something over it so it only drops to a certain level.
For “Simple job” – Now since when do car or home projects EVER go smoothly? ALWAYS running into more problems. “This should only take about an hour” always seems to turn into “Well there went my weekend.”
Also, the have the brake pedal down a little did NOT help, kept dripping, and then turned to a steady stream 10min later… Ended up threading it up into the spring to stop it… But putting that screw back in was a very wet affair… Kudos to cardone.. Everything that was threaded the threads went in easy half way then i needed a ratchet… Wasnt crossthreaded
Tomorrow i get to bleed them which should be fun, pushed brake pedal about 10 times, right to floor each time, master cylinder was nearly empty.. Topped it off, ran motor and hit pedal another 25, no change… Me thinks i might njeed wifie pumping for more than the 15 max i promised heh
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