SO Flank Drive+ Wrenches

[James O’Hara]

So as most frequent users know I had purchased one set of these a while back and spread them on a sensor nut. Got them replaced for free due to this and then did it again. I had also bought the expanded set at that time. I had engraved the first set and expanded set. Well because of the engraving I had the return price dropped some.

Well today I am trying the long pattern style. They were on sale for an extremely good price. I already talked to the tool guy I am not going to engrave them. But, I tell you this I will have my camera with me this time and if I spread them I am taking pictures. If they spread I will also return them for a full refund.

I was just wondering what your guys experience has been with the Flank Drive+? Do you have long pattern? When did you buy yours? Have you ever spread them? Have you ever not been able to get full return price on a new item due to engraving?

Topic

[Greg L]

I’ve only had to do one EGT sensor, on a powerchoke. I know what you mean, they just about weld together. When you deal with stainless steel, it likes to gall really bad, especially when both surfaces are stainless. The blue wrench is your friend on these. Get out the torch, put some heat to the threaded bung, and then work the sensor or fitting loose. Not sure what brands you are servicing, but I know the tool guys have sockets for them now, similar to O2 sensor sockets. All the wrenches will give you problems, just way past their design limits. Working in a shop that did exhaust for years, I learned a trick or two to make them cooperate, lol. Good luck.

[James O’Hara]

The sockets just round it because they spread easier then the wrenches. I used to use a torch a craftsman line wrench and a pair of pliers to hold the opening on the line wrench closed and beat the other end with a 3lb hammer. Sometimes it would work but, most of the time it would just round it.

It has been experimented with so many different styles and tools by all the mechanics in our 4 shops. The only thing that works is flank drive + if hey are not severly tight or the universal pipe wrench if they are. Even then every once in a while you break the welds out of the dpf or doc. Then its $15k for a new one.

O2 sensors have a nut style base to them and are much thicker. The sensors I am talking about have a sheet metal pressed nut.

Here is a picture of a VW one. Ours is dished much deeper about half the thickness of the flats.

It is just a piss poor design in general.

Here is a picture of an International brand doc/dpf assembly with spider laying on its side. The black wires you see are for hose sensors. You want to remove them on the truck. Because otherwise it is all kinds of fun you do not want to have. Since you are doing that under the truck and you can see the pinch clamps next to each sensor it becomes a pain really quick.

http://www.vanderhaags.com/detailview.php?part=24330236

Btw, that shiny black is probably oil which means using that one would more then likely go boom and bring the police and more then likely put a hole in your truck possibly kill the driver or shrapnel a car next to it. Can’t be positive though as it is just a picture. It should be a light absorbing mat black inside from soot anything else means coolant, excessive fuel,excessive oil, or it was sitting in the rain but, judging by the other black wet marks on it im leaning towards oil. Any one of them other then rain will destroy it. The coolant will break down the dpf part. The oil or excessive fuel will cause a nice boom.

Here is another picture:

http://www.vanderhaags.com/detailview.php?part=24298744

All and all its just a major pain in the butt for no reason other then piss poor engineering. Btw, all big rigs have these since 2007 EPA regulations mandated them.

[Greg L]

Its german engineering, and you’re in a state that hasn’t got with the times, and use mag-chloride on the roads. You’re screwed bud lol

[Mike]

I was taught that the open end of a wrench is for turning the bolt once it’s been loosened. The box end is used for breaking the bolt free, and a 6-point box is stronger (but less convenient) than the more common 12-point variety. Granted, it isn’t always possible to get a box end over a fastener in tight quarters or unusual circumstances.

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