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the symptom you described of vibration felt when braking is signs of warped font rotors. the only fix for this is to machine the rotors
or replace them. C8-)you can pull the wheels and do a visual inspection of the brake components. check the caliper slides in your
inspection. good luck and keep us posted.Thanks for the advise. I thought it had to do with the brakes some how. I should say last time I looked at the rotors, they had big signs of wear/scratches. Even when I brake on an icy road the brakes tend to slide and I have a hard time braking. Slamming on the pedal doesn’t seems to work good. I had to brake smooth and slowly. I’m thinking is time to do a brake job on the vehicle anyhow.
+1
It does sound like you have warped rotors if the vibration is occurring while you depress the brake pedal. I would just replace the rotors given the description you gave of them.
You do need to determine if your front rotors are the issue or the rear
He said while ‘applying’ the brakes and not with the brakes ‘applied’
I had to read it several times before posting my first reply due to the grammar and punctuation. So I’m going on that assumption of the OP using the ‘applying’ statement.
Sorry, my apologies. I know a did a bad job on the grammar. I meant to say brakes applied while stopped (for example stopped at a traffic signal light in red).
Quoted From fcobob78:
Sorry, my apologies. I know a did a bad job on the grammar. I meant to say brakes applied while stopped (for example stopped at a traffic signal light in red).
If you apply the brakes, do you feel a pulsation in the brake pedal? If you do not, the braking system is not the issue.
If you feel a vibration while at a stop light, than you may have a ignition misfire, an electrical problem due to electrical loads or mechanical engine condition.
Do you feel this vibration in park or even neutral WITHOUT the brake pedal depressed?
I don’t believe there are any vibrations on the pedal itself. This only happens when the transmission is on a “moving” gear, i.e. Drive or Reverse. Does not happen in Neutral or Park.
In a situation like yours I often start with engine performance, a good tune up and if you can do a good fuel injection cleaning on it. Also make sure you pull any check engine light codes and fix those if you have them. If you still have the vibration after all of that then turn your attention to the engine mounts but save those for last and make sure the engine is running smooth first.
I just replaced the spark plugs last summer, fuel filter is not very accessible for this vehicle and air filter is not that old. What else should I do for tune up?
Can I do myself the fuel injection system cleanup?. Eric do you have any videos for this? I’m assuming I need some sort of special pressure tool to clean it?
You may want to do a power balance test to see if you can isolate a possible cylinder misfire –
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAOmUjAj … yyMYSZRIOn
Did you ever see if your have a CEL or look at your motor mounts?
Hi fcobob78,
I would also recommend a good visual inspection of the motor mount and transmission mounts. I had to replace the trans-center mount on a similar Town and Country vehicle. The large rubber dampener of this mount was dry-rotted, and in addition, one of its “ears” (further hole on the same mount where a bolt went through) was broken, all causing the vehicle to exhibit vibrations. A new trans-center mount fixed the problem.
For reference, the trans-center mount is located on the left side of the engine. Access to the bolts for this mount can be gained through removal of the front driver’s side tire. There is either an access-shield or port that allows you to get a socket on the bolt head (with a long extender), if memory serves me correctly.
Good luck and keep us posted.
I don’t have a video on fuel injection cleaning but my preferred method is with the injector cleaner I used in this video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fizKtru7RcU
You might also want to check the wires as well as the cap, rotor, and air filter. I normally do everything I can to get the engine running well before I look to the engine mounts but you may find that worn engine mounts are the cause of the problem in the end. Also you might want to clean your battery terminals and connections, the reason is that when you apply the brakes it creates an extra electrical load on the system which makes the alternator work a bit harder, if there is a poor connection at the battery it can give enough resistance to drop enough voltage to cause a problem.
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