Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › The EricTheCarGuy Video Forum › Sliding Door Repair 2001 Odyssey
- This topic has 8 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 11 months ago by Jason Schwartz.
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October 18, 2013 at 2:58 pm #555825
Here’s my video on repairing Honda Odyssey sliding doors. I like this one.
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October 21, 2013 at 5:21 am #556346
What happened with that large plug that you uncovered behind the panel? You sounded surprised to see it when the panel came off.
October 22, 2013 at 2:49 am #556490[quote=”rhoptry” post=76274]What happened with that large plug that you uncovered behind the panel? You sounded surprised to see it when the panel came off.[/quote]
I put it back in the panel when I put the van back together. If you watch the high speed closely, you can see me snap it into place.
October 22, 2013 at 3:09 am #556502Guest appearance by a spider at about 22:30.
We have a 2001 LX without the power doors, so no inside panel to remove. About a 15 minute job. One thing I found was the shim took the guesswork out of aligning the piece on the door.
December 10, 2013 at 1:45 pm #568064Hi Eric… I only just watched this video… must have missed it for some reason 🙁
What is the need for marking the position of the latch bracket with a pen? I know you mentioned the alignment but surely the fasteners, when tightened up, align it to its correct position?
Good vid 🙂
December 11, 2013 at 2:15 am #568209The holes have enough slop that you need to make sure you align the hinges before you tighten them down. If you don’t, the door may not operate properly.
December 3, 2014 at 7:47 pm #647748Hi Eric, great video – I can’t wait to try this to see if I can fix the sliding doors on my ’03 EX-L. My dealer quoted me many hundreds of dollars for this repair. I have a couple of questions:
1. I’m trying to source the parts and have noticed that the OEM part is as you show in your video, with both the “male” (bearing/roller side that contacts the slider track) and “female” (piece that bolts onto the door) pieces included and attached. However there are aftermarket versions that only include the “female” side. Presumably instead of unbolting from the door as you did, you would instead remove the hinge pin and replace only the male piece, leaving the female piece bolted to the door. What is your opinion on this? Seems like it would avoid the issue of the “shim,” and of getting the positioning just right when re-attaching. Do you know how difficult is is to remove the hinge pin?
2. I’ve seen some comments on YouTube suggesting that there may be no need to remove all the interior panels and loosen the tension on the cables – they suggest just grabbing the cable with vise-grip pliers and removing it. What are your thoughts on this?
Thanks!
December 4, 2014 at 4:55 am #647798[quote=”OdyDad” post=120569]Hi Eric, great video – I can’t wait to try this to see if I can fix the sliding doors on my ’03 EX-L. My dealer quoted me many hundreds of dollars for this repair. I have a couple of questions:
1. I’m trying to source the parts and have noticed that the OEM part is as you show in your video, with both the “male” (bearing/roller side that contacts the slider track) and “female” (piece that bolts onto the door) pieces included and attached. However there are aftermarket versions that only include the “female” side. Presumably instead of unbolting from the door as you did, you would instead remove the hinge pin and replace only the male piece, leaving the female piece bolted to the door. What is your opinion on this? Seems like it would avoid the issue of the “shim,” and of getting the positioning just right when re-attaching. Do you know how difficult is is to remove the hinge pin?
2. I’ve seen some comments on YouTube suggesting that there may be no need to remove all the interior panels and loosen the tension on the cables – they suggest just grabbing the cable with vise-grip pliers and removing it. What are your thoughts on this?
Thanks![/quote]
Honestly I don’t recommend aftermarket parts for this repair. I also suggest that you loosen tension on the cables as I did in the video. Remember you still have to reset the tension when you’re done.
December 4, 2014 at 6:37 am #647804Hi Eric, thanks for your answer! Even with the factory part, however, what do you think of the approach of disconnecting at the hinge pin instead of unbolting/rebolting at the door?
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