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Topic
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-Model Year : 2001
-Make/Brand : Nissan Sentra
-Complete Model : GXE
-Engine/Transmission : 2WD / AutoTran
-Country : Oregon/California USAHello everyone,
I own a 2001 Nissan Sentra GXE 1.8l twin Cam 4 cylinder – Basically stock, 99% sure all parts I have swapped out are OEM from 2001.
Purchased Vehicle in 2008 with around 80k miles. Now at 154k!
One day my wife came home and said car was acting like it would stall.
It popped codes 303 (#3 cylinder misfire) and both top o2 sensor codes (forget numbers)History:
I have now replaced the following because of the issue and because they needed it anyway!!all 4 o2 Sensor (2 lower, 2 higher) Connected to intake
cam and crank shaft sensors
all four spark plugs
all four coil packs
valve cover gaskets
MAF SensorSwapped the fuel injectors (FI) and their wires around (misfire follows #3 wire, but not #3 anything else.)
I have tested each of the four FI’s wire connector terminals and #1 ,2 &4 I get 12v Terminal A and 0.01-0.05 Terminal B. Both with car on on, and started. FI connector #3 gives me constant 13V-14V on Terminal A and sometimes 14v Terminal B or 0.05.If i place FIC #4 onto 3 and 3 onto 4. The misfire moves to #4 . SO its obviously something dealing with #3 wire or connector.
I have cut into all the wire tubing and followed all 4 grounds and all 4 (positives?) to their sources. The grounds ? tie into each other and I think they end up on the intake manifold back side bolted in. I have unbolted and checked the wires and they look good. SO i rebolted to intake.
And the individual colors wires – #3 being green/blk with silver dots – to the ECM/ECU/PCU/PCM.. No burns or cuts.
I have looked into the ECM and no burns or damage of anykind can be found on the circuit board.I have checked all fuses pertaining to ecm and fuel injector and fuel pump. No change.
I just noticed a strange clicking sound on EGR vlave as i accelerate.
One thing i did try was i cut into #3 wire going to ECM and wired it to #4 wire going to ECM. The car ran fantastic for 10 mins until it shut off my engine and forced me to restart from parked only (not neutral)
I have now put everything back to normal!
If it helps, if I’m on a radio station with only static, as i press brake and shift gears or even accelerate, the static gets much louder/worse.WHAT IS THIS PART?? I cant find any info anywhere —
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Replies
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The only suggestion I have is do you get the same reading at the #3 injector wire right at the pcm? Sounds like it may just be a bad pcm. Hopefully someone with more experience on this one will chime in.
I can recheck but im pretty sure i got the same voltage 13-14V.
I get clicking sounds from all injectors, Sounds like injector not shutting off because constant voltage. but #3 sounds faster? just sounds different, where as #12 &4 sound exactly alike.
CAn it really be the ECM even though the terminal and solder points look perfect on the circuit board?
Its like a computer motherboard, you could have anything not right and never be able to visually see the problem. You did not happen to see a code P1130 in that range did you?
Yes at one point i did get a Swirl control valve code i think that was the Nissan P1130. Guy at autozone didn’t know wtf the a SCV was..
Ill admit neither do/did I. SHould i replace that aswell, or does this confirm its the ECM?
I cannot say its the problem, but looking at a wiring diagram, the wires for the SCV are out the opposite side of the pcm. and it does use signals from the pcm to do the following
Swirl Control Valve
• Uses an ECM-controlled vacuum-operated actuator
• Controls intake manifold air velocity through all rpm ranges for improved performance
and emissions
During low speed operation, the valve closes to increase the velocity of air in the intake
passages, producing a swirl in the combustion chamber. This results in the following
improvements:
• Increased burning speed of the gas mixture
• More complete combustion
• Lower emission levels
• Improved fuel consumption
• Better idle quality
At higher engine speeds, the swirl control valve opens to improve performance.Yes, I copied and pasted that. But I am wondering if it or the acutator for the SCV is bad if not the scv itself and it could be giving your pcm fits or a false signal for the injector. Now this is just me thinking, not being able to actually work on it or look at it. This recovering from surgery is killing me.
I hope this helps you in some way.SO where is my SCV located. DO you see it in my pictures? Would it only affect one fuel injector pulse?
I can always get pictures and videos or whatever you need to see.When ever I unplug that RANDOM part
NOTHING changes in my engine what so ever. Is that my SCV pictured above?? marked with SPDB28 – 114A (cant find this anywhere on internet)..
I have a Haynes manual based on this car, but it gives me nothing about my engine. Everything they talk about is located in wrong locations. My ECM is in Firewall behind glove box, but under the engine hood. They say its in the dash board by feet center column..
I have been without this car for too long, and I have always been able to fix things myself. GO YOU TUBE VIDEOS AND RESEARCH!
RANDOM—Also when I unplug my EGR harness connector nothing changes as well. (But i heard this is normal).
P.S. WHich diagram are you looking at?
http://forums.nicoclub.com/p1130-swirl-control-valve-solenoid-valve-t578113.html
Pic of it there. I am not saying that is your problem, Reading up on it, it does give some of your driveability symptoms but not really the voltage problems you are seeing, but then again, no one I read up on checked for that. You can google P1130-8 and there seems to be lots of info on it.
That is actually the actuator, the valves themselves are in the intake, here is a good explanation of how it works: https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20101105161412AAchc0g
https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081026165709AA0fL3w
I search Autozone, ebay, Amazon, can’t find a swirl control valve in existence for my car? lol
Yet i see this phrase everywhere now and before you mentioned it.
Does it go by another name?
However when i look it up on google i get this image, and it looks alot like my unknown part??
That wiring is a mess. That said, have you checked for vacuum leaks? Never ignore mechanical or the simple. K.I.S.S.
More info here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues
and here
Good luck and keep us posted.
Tell me about it, The wiring looked horrible before I touched it. I have no tubing for it once it is fixed.
Ill have to do research on a vacuum leak test. I have never done that before. Something new to learn yay!
Thanks for taking a look Eric, look forward to learning from you and others on this forums.
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