- This topic has 14 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 3 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
I recently gave every car in the family oil changes. This was done July 8th 2012. No one in our family drives 3000 miles in a year in fact combined we probably only driver around 2000 and my particular car says regular oil change intervals are 3 years or 6000 miles. I have put on about 3000 miles since i changed it. Should i wait another 2 years until i hit the 6k mile mark or should i changer is in july 2015 (3 years later) as the owner’s manual states? the fact the car is driven less than 2500 miles a year (never calculated actual year mileage) should i even worry about changing it at all?
-
Replies
-
WOW 3000mi in 2 years? I do that in a month. I’d at the very least replace it every year as oil does break down over time, but that’s just me.
Cars that aren’t driven much aren’t cars that sit but they aren’t normal cars either. They lead a harder life than normal cars.
I have a 2004 Subaru that just turned 67K miles (or 6700 a year) and I did a timing belt job on it just because of the elapsed time. Subaru recommends 105K miles. Well, it needed accessory belts, three idler pulleys, a timing belt tensioner, a water pump and a radiator hose. In the past year it has also needed power steering hoses and a radiator. So, mileage isn’t everything, there is also time.
I have to agree with the above, change oil at least once a year. Pounding down the highway is good for oil. The amount of driving you do isn’t.
Plus even if the oil isn’t dirty the additive packages in the oil can wear out due to it being in the engine for a long time. I vote to change it.
A rule of thumb at least in my experience is, if anyone without any previous history of paranoia can ask that question, then the answer is yes. $20-$30 to stave off a $3000-$10000 fix.
I was thinking next change Ill put some PENZZOIL PLATNUM oil. or that Oil Penzzoil averted a few years back that helps clean the engine. Along with FRAM Oil Filters What you all think?
Every 6 months is enough if you don’t drive that much. As AaronE stated the additives in the oil do start to break down over time regardless.
As far as quality of oil, if you clearly aren’t driving your vehicles under heavy usage you wasting your money buying a premium oil. UNLESS any of the vehicles specify synthetic oil, then by all means. Use the grade the manufacturer specifies and just buy whatever’s on sale.
I have Mustangs now but used to have Vettes. Some got (or get) less than 3,000 miles in a year. I would still change oil at least once a year. I’d also run each car on road until completely warmed up at least once per month weather permitting. And some of that would be at Interstate speeds (once warmed up). I wanted to try to get rid of any moisture (water)(condensation) in anything (where it should not be found normally). You also want to be concerned about having fresh gas (Stabil can help if car sits a long time) and keeping battery charged (good trickle charger can help).
[quote=”mustangroddick” post=108003]I have Mustangs now but used to have Vettes. Some got (or get) less than 3,000 miles in a year. I would still change oil at least once a year. I’d also run each car on road until completely warmed up at least once per month weather permitting. And some of that would be at Interstate speeds (once warmed up). I wanted to try to get rid of any moisture (water)(condensation) in anything (where it should not be found normally). You also want to be concerned about having fresh gas (Stabil can help if car sits a long time) and keeping battery charged (good trickle charger can help).[/quote]
Thanks for the tips. I never have driven it after the oil change (other than to start it up to drive it off the ramps). I dont have to worry about the STP gas treatment stuff as i DO drive my car almost daily and gas it up no less than once a month so it never has stale gas (i generally run it to 1/4 tank before filling it) the battery i never have to worry about that was replaced exactly 6 years ago yesterday and still starts the car with no problems at all.
Yep- stay away from STP anything. It’s no value in a normal car. Stabil is just used when cars sit a long time and the gas would go stale (staler?) without it. Every once in a while I’ll use Chevron Techtron gas treatment to do a little cleaning – but it’s probably not needed. For some reason I have convinced myself that it can help and doesn’t hurt – ha ha. 🙂
[quote=”mustangroddick” post=108631]Yep- stay away from STP anything. It’s no value in a normal car. Stabil is just used when cars sit a long time and the gas would go stale (staler?) without it. Every once in a while I’ll use Chevron Techtron gas treatment to do a little cleaning – but it’s probably not needed. For some reason I have convinced myself that it can help and doesn’t hurt – ha ha. :)[/quote]
What kind of treatment would u recommend for a stubborn snow blower? Damn thing wont start put fresh gas in it and a new plug took the carb bowl off cleaned the jet and the carb still wont start STP got it running til it ran outta gas
There is no expiration date on oil as far as I know, but it does break down in an engine over time. That said, I’d recommend oil changes at 5000K or 1 year for low mileage vehicles. I’d also say to consider high mileage oil as it has extra seal conditioners which may be beneficial to a vehicle that doesn’t get driven often. Also, make sure you use the viscosity called for by the manufacturer.
That’s just my 2c. I’m sure you’ll get a lot of different opinions on it.
[quote=”Matthew2014″ post=108649][quote=”mustangroddick” post=108631]Yep- stay away from STP anything. It’s no value in a normal car. Stabil is just used when cars sit a long time and the gas would go stale (staler?) without it. Every once in a while I’ll use Chevron Techtron gas treatment to do a little cleaning – but it’s probably not needed. For some reason I have convinced myself that it can help and doesn’t hurt – ha ha. :)[/quote]
What kind of treatment would u recommend for a stubborn snow blower? Damn thing wont start put fresh gas in it and a new plug took the carb bowl off cleaned the jet and the carb still wont start STP got it running til it ran outta gas[/quote]
I have two snow blowers, hedge trimmer, string trimmer, lawn mower and tiller all with small gasoline engines. Anytime one of these appliances is hard to start the carburetor immediately gets disassembled and goes into carb cleaner for a soak. Don’t put anything in the solvent but metal parts. Rinse with water, blow dry, reassemble, mess with the idle or mixture screws a little and it runs like new.
Last winter after the first snow ACE hardware was quoting $270 for this service. People were lined up. They called it diagnosis and repair of whatever was wrong. Well, what is always wrong if the engine won’t start and it ran fine before is the carburetor is gummed up by the varnish that comes out of gasoline.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=108680]There is no expiration date on oil as far as I know, but it does break down in an engine over time. That said, I’d recommend oil changes at 5000K or 1 year for low mileage vehicles. I’d also say to consider high mileage oil as it has extra seal conditioners which may be beneficial to a vehicle that doesn’t get driven often. Also, make sure you use the viscosity called for by the manufacturer.
That’s just my 2c. I’m sure you’ll get a lot of different opinions on it.[/quote]
What about High Milage Oil Filter? also how meny miles qualifies as “high” mileage? I have always stuck to 5w30 in my Daewoo as that is what the cap says. However the Impala calls for 10w30 as says the oil cap however it burns oil pretty badly so i dumped in a quart of 10w40 inside it and it hasnt needed oil since but still burns pretty badly go figure
[quote=”barneyb” post=108769][quote=”Matthew2014″ post=108649][quote=”mustangroddick” post=108631]Yep- stay away from STP anything. It’s no value in a normal car. Stabil is just used when cars sit a long time and the gas would go stale (staler?) without it. Every once in a while I’ll use Chevron Techtron gas treatment to do a little cleaning – but it’s probably not needed. For some reason I have convinced myself that it can help and doesn’t hurt – ha ha. :)[/quote]
What kind of treatment would u recommend for a stubborn snow blower? Damn thing wont start put fresh gas in it and a new plug took the carb bowl off cleaned the jet and the carb still wont start STP got it running til it ran outta gas[/quote]
I have two snow blowers, hedge trimmer, string trimmer, lawn mower and tiller all with small gasoline engines. Anytime one of these appliances is hard to start the carburetor immediately gets disassembled and goes into carb cleaner for a soak. Don’t put anything in the solvent but metal parts. Rinse with water, blow dry, reassemble, mess with the idle or mixture screws a little and it runs like new.
Last winter after the first snow ACE hardware was quoting $270 for this service. People were lined up. They called it diagnosis and repair of whatever was wrong. Well, what is always wrong if the engine won’t start and it ran fine before is the carburetor is gummed up by the varnish that comes out of gasoline.[/quote]
$270? A independant local small engine repair shop only charged me $35 two years ago to rebuild the carb. Of course this time around itll probably cost more because id need it picked up and delivered as i no longer have access to a pickup to take it in myself.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.