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As the title states I an experiencing a shake since replacing my wheel hub. Here’s a timeline to get everything in order.
2009 Buick Lacrosse CXJan 12th I replaced my passenger front hub after it began grinding at speeds above 30mph. I replaced that unit with a Timken which then failed 12 days later and replaced the Timken with an SKF. No more issues with the front end.
A week after my passenger front first failed, the passenger rear hub assembly failed on me. I replaced that particular hub with an SKF unit, but noticed after doing so that my passenger rear now shakes at 50-60mph but then goes away above 60mph. If I brake at those higher speeds the shaking becomes worse, however it doesn’t effect the brake pedal. I also noticed a burning smell that came from my passenger rear after spirited drives.
Just a little over an hour ago I took the rear hub back off, and took a dremel tool with a 120grit sanding wheel (cardboard wheel with numerous spokes covered in 120grit sandpaper) and knocked most of the rust off the passenger rear spindle. I put the hub back on, cross tightened to 55 lb ft of torque and then re-assembled the brakes and wheel.
I still have the same issue. 50-60mph shakes both while cruising and braking, however the brakes seem to be working better now and I have no burning smell coming from my passenger rear wheel anymore.
The only thing I can come up with is tires. I had this exact same shake a few months back and it disappeared when I replaced my rear tires with the used Primewells that are on there now. Given how cheap the tires themselves are I’m wondering if the Primewell(s) have a shifted or broken belt in them.
Any input would be appreciated.
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I would be suspecting the wheel hub you just installed. You can rotate tires and see if shake moves or varies.
Rotation was the next step on my mind as well. I hope to hell it isn’t the bearing. That’s two in a row that were bad. First one overheated and seized
I’m at a loss right now. The wobble went away and the car drove fine briefly, but the passenger front is grinding again.
That’s 3 wheel hubs in a month. Any idea what’s going on?
The wobble and grinding are both gone for the moment. I’m noticing a pattern now.
I’m taking it in the morning to have a complete check over of the steering and suspension components. When I first was told my passenger front bearing was bad was early last month. Prior to that I had a grinding which I believed was the used tires; not the primewells, these were goodyears I purchased used with 3/32 tread just to pass inspection.
I replaced those with Pirelli’s and had an alignment done. I was informed the passenger front was bad, however I never received my slip showing that an alignment was done. After replacing the passenger front wheel hub I noticed a WAP WAP WAP coming from the rear and called this shop, was told that they only found play in the passenger front. A week later the passenger rear goes bad. I replaced it, within a day or so the passenger front went out again. Just replaced it Friday morning under warranty (after 700 miles it overheated and seized up). Now both the wobble and grinding are alternating rapidly.
If the alignment is correct I’m assuming something is wrong with my driver side of the vehicle that is causing undue stress on the passenger side and eating my wheel hubs at an alarming rate.
May have found my issue. Took my car in to be aligned before I installed the new hub I had warrantied out. All checked out but I notice they don’t use torque wenches, just ran it down and then some.
I’ve noticed for about a year now when I torque my wheels (which I ALWAYS do) I have to go over each nut in a star pattern numerous times before the lug nuts no longer turn. This was following a visit after I called corporate because they failed to honor a price match that THEY offered me when I refused a 5 year alignment package in favor of a competitors lifetime alignment package.
After 3 years they refused to honor the price match so I called corporate. The following visit is when I noticed the wheels needing numerous passes before the wheel would sit flush against the hub. I’ll be taking the wheels in to get checked out soon.
If the wheel isn’t immediately seating properly on the hub, try cleaning the mounting surface on the wheel itself. I did mine last summer with a cheap 4.5 inch angle grinder that had a wire cup on it.
And for the love of whatever god you choose to worship, or not, wear safety glasses and pants. The wire strands come flying out and stick into anything. If you have a dust mask handy you may want to wear it also.
Pretty sure I found the issue. Took the passenger rear off, double checked all bolts and applied blue loctite to the hub assembly bolts and the caliper mounting bracket bolts.
Spun the tire by hand and noticed slight side to side movement but then the track rod caught my attention. Looks like I may have hit a pothole or curb.
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