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words of note,
1:KBB only goes to 20 years old so anything older than 1993 wont be listed. You can have a car dealership give you trade in and retail values of the car you want to sell and then just price it in the middle.2:depending on the area you can sell a car on CL for over 2k. done that a few times. but thats because our local rag of a paper sucks and is EXTREMELY expensive (like 90-100.00 for a 3 line ad ran for 5 days)
3: Re:private party sales, change the oil, check the fluids, grease it too. nobody wants a squeaking pile of s*it and people wont get turned off by your car sounding like its going to fall apart going around the block.
4: and you also have the option of having co-oping with a car lot to do the advertising and showing and all that. they will take a portion of the sales price though, and will usually only do it for newer vehicles. Some will outright buy the car from you too no trade in necessary.
I’ve only sold one car privately. I believe I sold my 1985 Escort for what I paid for it. I only drove it 9 months and decided I didn’t like it after I had to put a new clutch in it. I was honest and told them it had been in an accident.
How does one install a CAI incorrectly? I really don’t think anyone will care if there in an intake on the car; how exactly is that considered “hacking up the car”
My brother bought a 98 Integra GSR with coilovers,after market intake, intake manifold and throttle body, injectors, greddy header and probably other stuff Im forgetting. it was 4k (WA state)
this would violate both your rules of selling
incorrect: 1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse, CAI was hand made using exhaust tube, a cone filer from Oreillys and a CV Boot to go over the massive MAF those things have.
It sounded cool but could NOT have been reliable.
I was referring to using an actual CAI kit not rednecking some shit out of popsicle sticks and ducktape.
I wanted to know what Eric meant by saying craigslist is good only for cars under 2k. So how do you sell one worth more than that then? Is this more of an Ohio issue or a craigslist issue? Is it partly because people usually don’t have more than 2k cash and must finance the car? FYI banks and credit unions will give loans for private party vehicle purchases.
probably a ohio or mid west issue, because we dont have issues selling cars for more on our cl, the small car lot down the street even does it to move cars that arent selling off the lot.
oh one thing that should be added to the video if its ever re-edited for some reason is to make sure you keep INSURANCE on the car you are selling, unless you like paying impound fees to get it back. and 400.00 for fees on a car you are selling for 1500.00 well…
Hi Eric,
another great video. Really enjoying watching and listening to your thoughts and wisdom.
from Montreal here, and want to ask you to make a video (if you haven’t already 😉 on facing unexpected repairs that forces you, the owner, to decide whether it’s worth keeping the car or not anymore. This is a broad range issue for people who own cars thar are past warranty but still costing over $1K in issurances and registration just to keep them running. Most people do not have extended warranties on their 8 or 10 year old car, and are faced with the moneywise decision of fix it or sell it. Is it always better to fix it even if as the owner you plan on selling it (it seems like I never have a choice). I mean how much is too much in terms of repairs per year to warrant a smart move away from a car?
My first car was a 91 accord wagon. owned it for year 17 to year 21, and changed almost everything on it (fuel tank, ball joints, oil pan, discs, blower motor,exaust manifold to muffler, timing belt, water pump, linkages, alternator twice (had a drain). Sold it to buy an 04 CRV, which Consumer Reports rated as one of the best used cars on the market in reliability. It has 100k miles on it. Loved your maintenance clip on your element. But I’m thinking I don’t want to have my accord wagon experience happen again and need to draw a line before I get close to such a situation again. So yeah, based on your experience, and assuming I have the money to buy a newer car, what I really would like to know is when you think is the right time to make that move. I like the idea of buying a used car that I like and has a proven track record mechanical wise, fix it up (maintenance + wear and tear parts make-over) and then use it for a while. The question is at what point, what sign, what mechanical failure, or at what age, is the tipping point to get out of there and make the smart move before the car becomes a learning project? Keeping in mind that I’m asking as a non-mechanic who doesn’t particularly enjoy spending my time ordering parts from ebay throughout the year! Merci pour tous tes videos. Salut, Nick from Montreal Canada and La Belle Province
that would be hard to do since its an individual preference. There is always a downfall to buying another car, you dont really know what you are getting. For instance a couple of years ago my pinyon shaft in my rear end snapped and locked up the rear axle. lots of damage inside. It also took out my transmission. so here i was looking at 4k in repairs for a truck that was 24 years old, and worth maybe 2. But i did the repairs anyway to a lot of people’s dismay. I could have taken that 4k and the 800.00 a dealership offered me and gotten a newer truck. but what if i got one that the wiring was bad, or a bering in the engine was going out, or leaked from every gasket it has.
Thing is i KNOW my truck, ive had it since 98, and other than being down on power and smoking like a chimney, there’s nothing wrong with it that new rings wouldnt cure. its been maintained oil changed every 3k and all that you pull the valve cover off and the rockers are a nice golden color with absolutely no build up. and i know without a doubt if i go out there int he morning it will fire up. so to me the 4k was worth keeping something reliable.
The problem when you can fix everything on a car is that you end up undervaluing your own personal time and wallet, and miscalculating the true cost of repairs. My Honda Accord 91 that I bought was the perfect example, (AN EXCELLENT EXAMPLE FOR ANYONE BUYING A FIRST CAR)
Car cost = $800
Car age = 17 years old
Annual static cost (licence/registration/insurance) = $600… not bad
Annual cost of repairs (avg. over 5 years) = $800
Annual time-hours lost (avg. over 5 years) = 100 hours =~ $1000So based on my experience, I had a bad situation of multiple repairs per year because I purchased an old car, which assuming I had a minimum wage job, meant that this decision was costing me approx. an extra $1800 per year.
Conclusion, to no ones surprise, is that it comes down to how much you value your time, and the patience of your mechanic. If you earn a decent wage, and need to take time off to fix your car, then this is a disaster. If you are earning minimum wage and value your time, it is equally beneficial to invest in as new and as well maintained a car as possible. Using review websites like CR is also advisable to determine reliability of a car before purchase. IF you discover you are driving a lemon, (which took me 5 years to discover) then it is best to sell it as soon as possible.
Now I try to rev up my maintenance, as per Eric, and if my car has more than 1 problem in a given year, I start thinking about a replacement tout de suite (french for right a way!) within reason (type of repair). The grass is not always greener on the other side… unless you got nothing but weeds.
if you are only earning minimum wage, the best car you could hope to afford WOULD be about 800-2000, and thats at 8.95 an hour.
Basically nobody buys half a car. As such, if a person cannot afford a 3000-4000 expense, better off using some other form of transport because that is what any car will cost annually minimum no matter the initial price (800 or 2000). Gotta factor in a minimum of 1000 of repairs in the first year easy or it’s just a gamble. So to the point, buying a car at 800 is always buying half a car even if it looks like one full car.
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