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For whatever reason GM might be the only manufacturer that still uses individual wires for ABS sensors. They are prone to breaking and then the wiring has to be repaired. It’s a common enough issue that you can actually by repair kits with various GM specific ABS sensor connectors and pigtails.
The first step would be to inspect all the wiring back from the sensor to an area where it isn’t likely to be moving. Just remove the loomed wires from the various clips and pull the loom back as far as you can. Inspect for any broken wires or cracks in the insulation, repair as necessary with appropriate heat shrink butt connectors and carry on.
If there are no breaks in the wire, inspect the tone ring at the end of the axle looking for any chipped or broken teeth. It’s on the end of the axle so you might be able to see it without removing anything. If there are any missing or otherwise compromised teeth, repair as necessary.
If both of those check out OK, then it’s time to start looking at the ABS sensor itself. Other GM models with a slightly different sensor setup have an issue where corrosion builds up and the actual senor lifts up just enough to not read the odd tooth and activate the ABS. It’s a very similar issue that only occurs at low speeds. The remedy is to remove the sensor, clean the surface that it mounts to and reinstall the sensor.
From looking at parts listings, it appears that the sensor doesn’t actually protrude into the hub like on other GM models. However if it doesn’t, you should be prepared to replace the sensor as the sensor part will usually break off in the hub.. That is why GM hubs generally come with a new ABS sensor. It should also be noted that the bolts that attache the sensor to the knuckle are small and easily broken. So, proceed with caution.
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