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Hey guys, so here is my problem. I have a 2000 Ford Taurus, and it has 155,000 miles on it. For the past few months I have noticed that the coolant tank has been running low (when I check it every 3 weeks), and so I add more coolant, so it’s at the appropriate line. I am doing this always when the engine is cold. Anyway, I can’t seem to figure out why it may be leaking/burning coolant. There are no visible signs of a leak on or below the engine…The oil on the dipstick looks fine. And so now what? Should I just replace the coolant cap and hope that that solves it? I don’t own a pressure kit, so I can’t pressurize the system to see if there’s a leak. Any other methods? Also, how would I check if it was a blown head gasket? I don’t have a radiator cap on my vehicle (The coolant overflow tank is pressurized). What to do?!
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Your only real option is to start removing parts till you find out if the pump is leaking or not. Coolant normally leaves some nice stains that point to the source of the leak.
Ok, so just as an update, I spent this past weekend replacing the water pump. In order to get to it I had to remove quite a bit, and I was probably a bit over my head, but I managed to get it done. I installed it correctly and sewed the car back up. Now here is my question. When I removed the bolts from the old water pump I noticed there was coolant all over about 2 or 3 of the bolts. This rings odd to me because why would there be coolant on the bolts? Does this seem odd to anyone else, or should I probably not worry about it?
So far I’ve only driven a day or two with the new water pump, and I will need to keep driving for another week-ish in order to see if I’ve lost any coolant like I was before. Wish me luck, I hope I fixed the problem!
And a BIGGGG thanks to Eric for making me believe I could even tackle something like this. ::THUMBS UP::
I’ve done quite a few of these and it seems that every one of them that I have done have either had coolant on the bolts or insanly rusty bolts. Pretty normal for these cars. The gasket goes bad and allows coolant to seap into the bolt holes. Just clean them off and reinstall them as long as the threads are not damaged. Also make sure to check the timing cover gasket as well. I see alot of those seap coolant around the top side of the cover. All are very very slow leaks but still something to check while your in there. The timing covers is basically just the metal block looking piece that the water pump bolts up to. Have fun and don’t get discouraged. Took me a couple hours the first time I did one of these but with practice comes speed. Down to just under an hour on these now.
Hey guys,
Well I’ve looked under the car, and there’s STILL coolant leaking!!! Nooooooooo 🙁 What a bummer! I thought it was coming from the water pump, but apparently not! I’m wondering if it’s possible it’s coming from the engine block (maybe a crack)?
When I took the water pump off, I could see that it seemed the leak was coming from beyong the water pump (more internal).
‘Stayindirty’ is it possible that the timing cover gasket can leak enough coolant to be noticeably low after only 3 days of driving? I think I’ve lost about 2 cups of coolant.
Also, I’ve looked at the radiator hose that goes into the water pump, and it seems to be fine. Actually, I notcied the leak was dripping onto this hose!
Anyone have any other ideas as to where this leak is coming from? I could really use the help. because I’m at a loss.
I would recommend using a cooling system pressure tester. This will aid in helping you find that leak alittle easier. Most auto parts store will loan those types of tools out.
If you see a possible leak, i would clean up the area with some degreaser as that will make it easier to visually see that leak.
Hope this helps.
+1 on the pressure test.
This is really going to give you you’re answer as to where you’re leak is coming from.And it IS indeed the timing cover gasket that’s leaking. I searched this online and this is a HUGELY common issue for my model of car (Ford Taurus 2000 Vulcan engine).
I’ve looked online on how to get to this timing cover, and it seems like it’d be too much for me. Has anyone does this before, or can anyone suggest whether to try this myself or not. I’ve recently just done my water pump, but that was almost pushing my limit, so I’m unsure if I can do this job.
I’ve read that it would require to drop the oil pan (since the pan has a couple of bolts that meet with timing cover). Also, in order to drop the oil pan, I’d have to take off the Y pipe (exhaust). In addition, there would be power steering lines to take off, as well as drain the coolant, remove coolant resevoir, remove alternator, a bunch of brackets, unbolt to crank pulley, remove the harmonic balancer, etc., etc.
::Sigh:: =(
I suppose maybe I can keep driving it and top it off on coolant every other day…
HELP!
There is a free online repair manual called Chiltons that another member posted on the How To forums. That might give you a better idea on if you want to tackle the job or not.
You will need to assess from there if you have the correct tools for the job, if you can afford the vehicle to be down until the repair is complete and if your up for any additional challenges that may arise such as rusted bolts.
You can achieve anything you put your mind to but again, having the correct resources help.
In reference to those bolts with coolant this is actually quite common as they bolts thread directly into the water jacket. When you remove these bolts clean them with a wire wheel and then put RTV on the threads when you install them to help them seal the water passage. I know it’s weird but this is what you need to do in addition to fixing that gasket. Good luck
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