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could be the fuel injectors being clogged up. I just recently put some Berrymans fuel injector cleaner in my tank filling the tank up with gas. Also another problem is when I shift into drive it feels like my car jumps forward. Like its just dropping into gear real hard. I thought of the transmission being the problem but if it was I would think it would be an everyday problem, not a every now and then.
The engine is D16Y8- 1.6L SOHC 16-Valve VTEC
It also will idle in park at 2000 rpms at times, but rarely.
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2000 rpms is to high for the cars base idle. did you adjust any screws
on the throttle body or clean the throttle body? check if your throttle cable
is not to tight. check that the tb plate is closing all the way.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L788jKEV … plpp_video
You may have a problem with the IAC but here is my ‘Idle speech’ as it covers much of what to check in a situation like yours.
By suggestion I’m going to post my idle speech along with a couple of video links that I hope will help if your having problems with your Honda’s idle. First I’ll give you the link to the Solving Honda Idle Problems video, please remember that adjusting the FITV is the LAST step in the process and you need to back it off at least 1/2 turn after it bottoms out or it will not start properly when cold.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L788jKEVblYThe Bleeding a Cooling System Videohttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUp … =relmfuThe video response to the Honda Idle videohttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMj … onseLastly here is the “Idle Speech”There are a lot of things that can contribute to an idle issue, in fact in the end it may still be there to some degree because of the nature of a 4 cylinder engine however here are some things to start with.First start with a good tune up, use NGK or Nippon Denso plugs, don’t change the wires if they are OE, if they aren’t OE you might consider NGK wires as they are very good and less expensive then OE. A quality cap and rotor should be good. A new air filter also helps.Don’t change the PCV valve, if you see an aftermarket PCV valve in there put a Honda in, believe it or not I’ve seen idle issues caused by aftermarket PCV valves, the OE’s last just about forever so you can easily justify the expense.Next a good valve adjustment, this goes a long way to smooth out the idle if done correctly, mess it up and things can get a lot worse though.While you have the valve cover off check the timing belt tension, if you feel a lot of slack this can cause the cam to ‘chunk’ as it spins causing a rough idle. If you think the belt has been on there for some time then you might consider changing it and resetting the tension properly, if it’s not ready for replacement you can reset the tension to take up the slack.DO NOT adjust the idle screw under any circumstances, it is set at the factory and that is the reason it was sealed in the first place. If you find that the seal has been broken and you have a low idle and you have done all of the above then you might turn the screw out a little to see if that helps the idle but only enough to try and bring it back to where it was before it was adjusted in the first place.Last clean the screen in the Idle Air Control valve, this can get clogged up with carbon over time and cause the flow through it to be restricted which can cause idle issues.If you still have a ‘rough’ idle after all of this THEN look to the engine mounts as you want to be sure the engine is running correctly before you go for those as the one in the back is a real pain to replace.I hope this info is helpful as I get a TON of questions about Honda idle problems, thanks for reading.Quoted From college man:
2000 rpms is to high for the cars base idle. did you adjust any screws
on the throttle body or clean the throttle body? check if your throttle cable
is not to tight. check that the tb plate is closing all the way.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L788jKEV … plpp_video
The throttle cable isn’t tight. I haven’t cleaned the throttle body either. I may try that out as well.
Eric, will fixing this idle problem also help with the sudden RPM spikes while I am driving? The idle problem has only happened twice so far setting at 2000 other than that it sets at about 1000 or a bit below that. Every one I have told this problem to is leaning toward the fuel injectors being clogged up. Or sadly it may be the transmission slipping. Which I really hope not. Other than that I am going to go watch those videos. Thank you both for the replies, hopefully you will reply again soon.
Staying Dirty.
It’s not likely to be the fuel injectors, it’s not often that fuel injectors are a problem on Hondas. I hate to say this but the transmission theory has a lot more credibility. You might check the fluid level and condition next. Make sure you’re checking the fluid level with the engine OFF and that you only use Honda fluid if not transmission problems may arise.
I decided to try and replace the oxygen sensor that had gone out previous to this and see if anything would change and so I went to have my CEL code pulled to see which sensor it was and it pulled another code for the Throttle Position Sensor, I bought one and had a buddy who is more experienced on cars put it on and calibrate it to what the manual said to: 0.5 closed throttle and 4.5 open. That fixed everything.
But..Then a week ago it all started again, except the high idle. This time though the rpms would go up a slight bit then down at a fast rate till i gave it more gas to push it through. The engine light came back on and I pulled the same code for the tps. Replaced the TPS, calibrated, perfectly fine.
NOW it has messed up AGAIN, same code as well. But so far it hasn’t had the rpm spiking problem it just takes a bit of higher rpms to shift and when I drop it from park to rev, d4, d3, d2 it jerks the car hard..So I’m thinking it could be a faulty wire somewhere causing it to mess up every now and then and not all the time? I would think that if it was the TPS it would be a constant thing since one day it will work just fine then the next it wont. That is the suggestions I have been getting. Any ideas?
I decided to try and replace the oxygen sensor that had gone out previous to this and see if anything would change and so I went to have my CEL code pulled to see which sensor it was and it pulled another code for the Throttle Position Sensor, I bought one and had a buddy who is more experienced on cars put it on and calibrate it to what the manual said to: 0.5 closed throttle and 4.5 open. That fixed everything.
But..Then a week ago it all started again, except the high idle. This time though the rpms would go up a slight bit then down at a fast rate till i gave it more gas to push it through. The engine light came back on and I pulled the same code for the tps. Replaced the TPS, calibrated, perfectly fine.
NOW it has messed up AGAIN, same code as well. But so far it hasn’t had the rpm spiking problem it just takes a bit of higher rpms to shift and when I drop it from park to rev, d4, d3, d2 it jerks the car hard..So I’m thinking it could be a faulty wire somewhere causing it to mess up every now and then and not all the time? I would think that if it was the TPS it would be a constant thing since one day it will work just fine then the next it wont. That is the suggestions I have been getting. Any ideas?
I really need this to be answered, I love my car and I really dont want to be driving it while it is doing this..
I really need this to be answered, I love my car and I really dont want to be driving it while it is doing this..
when the tps was replaced.is it after market or Honda OE?
Could you post the original code. checked the
throttle cable for the proper slack.TB sticking or not
closing all the way.when the tps was replaced.is it after market or Honda OE?
Could you post the original code. checked the
throttle cable for the proper slack.TB sticking or not
closing all the way.It was an aftermarket for about 60$
I don’t have the code number but since my CEL is still on I can go have it pulled and ask for it tomorrow morning.
Mind you though that the car is not having the spiking problem anymore but more of a harder shifting problem that was occurring WITH the other problems; while driving and while putting it in rev, drive, etc. I had one of my other buddies check the tps to see what the readings were after the 2nd time of calibrating it and it had somehow changed, so after calibrating it the third time the problem arised again.
I do know that the guy who calibrated it the first time messed with the throttle cable a bit. This other guy who is doing it feels that the cable shouldnt have much of an effect on it.
It was an aftermarket for about 60$
I don’t have the code number but since my CEL is still on I can go have it pulled and ask for it tomorrow morning.
Mind you though that the car is not having the spiking problem anymore but more of a harder shifting problem that was occurring WITH the other problems; while driving and while putting it in rev, drive, etc. I had one of my other buddies check the tps to see what the readings were after the 2nd time of calibrating it and it had somehow changed, so after calibrating it the third time the problem arised again.
I do know that the guy who calibrated it the first time messed with the throttle cable a bit. This other guy who is doing it feels that the cable shouldnt have much of an effect on it.
The only Honda TPS’s I’ve replace in 15 years of working on Honda’s were damaged by outside forces. That said I never subscribed to the TPS theory and aftermarket parts especially electrical parts are a big step backward in my opinion. I agree you may have a wiring issue somewhere but you’ll need the wiring diagram OR the troubleshooting tree for the code that you have. Just because you have a code for something that doesn’t mean that part is at fault, you need to take the time to see if it’s getting what it needs in terms of power and ground to make sure the problem doesn’t rely elsewhere. Computers see voltage readings, it has no idea what a TPS is so it can’t tell you if it’s a wiring issue or a problem with the part, it’s up to you to figure that out.
Lets put that aside for now. If the throttle cable is not adjusted correctly it can not only cause a TPS code but also just about every other symptom you describe. Perhaps this video can help you with the adjustment.
The only Honda TPS’s I’ve replace in 15 years of working on Honda’s were damaged by outside forces. That said I never subscribed to the TPS theory and aftermarket parts especially electrical parts are a big step backward in my opinion. I agree you may have a wiring issue somewhere but you’ll need the wiring diagram OR the troubleshooting tree for the code that you have. Just because you have a code for something that doesn’t mean that part is at fault, you need to take the time to see if it’s getting what it needs in terms of power and ground to make sure the problem doesn’t rely elsewhere. Computers see voltage readings, it has no idea what a TPS is so it can’t tell you if it’s a wiring issue or a problem with the part, it’s up to you to figure that out.
Lets put that aside for now. If the throttle cable is not adjusted correctly it can not only cause a TPS code but also just about every other symptom you describe. Perhaps this video can help you with the adjustment.
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