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Tighten or replace the fast idle valve (eric has a video on it)
Do you have a check engine light on?
If not check for vacuum leaks, check your coolant see if you need to bleed em out to get possible air bubbles out.. If it still is idding , I would just adjust your idling air control valve, if it still is idling I would just replace the idle air control valve. If it is still idling, clean your throttle body its probably dirty.
Might also be your fuel filter or your fuel pump is starting to crap out when your car is struggling.
Do you notice weird smoke coming out the exhaust , could be your injectors.
hope this helps
cheers
AdamI wouldn’t mess with the fast idle screw at first. Check some other stuff. Eric’s Idle speech covers most of what you should look at, as posted below:
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/search.asp … h&ff=false
Good luck, and let us know what you find!
Quoted From pcmdjason:
Tighten or replace the fast idle valve (eric has a video on it)
Back the truck up partner that is NOT the first thing to do, the first thing is to check for air in the cooling system. And now the idle speech.
By suggestion I’m going to post my idle speech along with a couple of video links that I hope will help if your having problems with your Honda’s idle. First I’ll give you the link to the Solving Honda Idle Problems video, please remember that adjusting the FITV is the LAST step in the process and you need to back it off at least 1/2 turn after it bottoms out or it will not start properly when cold.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L788jKEVblY
The Bleeding a Cooling System Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1 … ure=relmfu
The video response to the Honda Idle video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMjQry8m … h_response
Lastly here is the “Idle Speech”
There are a lot of things that can contribute to an idle issue, in fact in the end it may still be there to some degree because of the nature of a 4 cylinder engine however here are some things to start with.
First start with a good tune up, use NGK or Nippon Denso plugs, don’t change the wires if they are OE, if they aren’t OE you might consider NGK wires as they are very good and less expensive then OE. A quality cap and rotor should be good. A new air filter also helps.
Don’t change the PCV valve, if you see an aftermarket PCV valve in there put a Honda in, believe it or not I’ve seen idle issues caused by aftermarket PCV valves, the OE’s last just about forever so you can easily justify the expense.
Next a good valve adjustment, this goes a long way to smooth out the idle if done correctly, mess it up and things can get a lot worse though.
While you have the valve cover off check the timing belt tension, if you feel a lot of slack this can cause the cam to ‘chunk’ as it spins causing a rough idle. If you think the belt has been on there for some time then you might consider changing it and resetting the tension properly, if it’s not ready for replacement you can reset the tension to take up the slack.
DO NOT adjust the idle screw under any circumstances, it is set at the factory and that is the reason it was sealed in the first place. If you find that the seal has been broken and you have a low idle and you have done all of the above then you might turn the screw out a little to see if that helps the idle but only enough to try and bring it back to where it was before it was adjusted in the first place.
Last clean the screen in the Idle Air Control valve, this can get clogged up with carbon over time and cause the flow through it to be restricted which can cause idle issues.
If you still have a ‘rough’ idle after all of this THEN look to the engine mounts as you want to be sure the engine is running correctly before you go for those as the one in the back is a real pain to replace.
I hope this info is helpful as I get a TON of questions about Honda idle problems, thanks for reading.
Quoted From pcmdjason:
Tighten or replace the fast idle valve (eric has a video on it)
*After you check for air in the cooling system 😉
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