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TB and/or MAF, clean each with named cleaner from auto parts store of your choice, should be good. Mustangs get very finicky with this in newedge and S197 model varieties, even more-so should you tune it or alter for performance gains (for obvious reasons). I got a catch-can just to stop the frequency of TB cleanings, but the JLT one let me down, and the TB still gets blow-by. It may simply be the MAF getting garbage, but if I do one, I do the other, and it always works fine thereafter for a minimum of 3 months.
Symptoms for my own(m/t not a/t) usually is just a rather regular see-saw dipping of up and down levels upon coasting for RPMs, followed by a slightly larger jump up in RPMs near, or at stop, then returning to normal. Annoying as all get-out, but easily fixed again. The tune and CAI exacerbate the onset of these symptoms severely.
What vehicle are you working on?
It usually helps to post all that info as instructed by the sticky on this forum before posting 😉
I’ll be sure to note the vehicle in the future. Although I do have the mustang as my profile pic and signature. Anyways, i’ts a 2002 3.8 mustang v6 automatic.
Doesn’t seem like a major issue (yet) until the car actually does stall out but it’s definitely annoying. Ill try cleaning the TB and MAF this weekend and see what happens.
Is the ck engine light on ? It could be the transmission,The lock up clutch in the torque converter is not releasing ,staying applied .When you apply the brakes the lock up clutch in the torque converter should release.When you come to a stop what may be happening is the lock up clutch is on ,then the car feels like its gonna stall ,at that moment the lock up clutch is released and idle back to normal.
I think the MAF, TB, and maybe IAC need to be cleaned before we jump to potentially very expensive conclusions 🙂
I’ll definitely get the intake cleaned up this weekend.
Hopefully that solves this issue, if not I will get back to you guys.
The check engine light is not on although I have noticed so some hard downshifts lately. Also I Changed the tranny fluid and filter about 3k miles ago.Sometimes engine problems cause the transmission to shift hard because it isn’t turning at exactly the RPM the computer expects it to when it commands the shift. When my truck was misfiring alot, most of the shifts were harsh.
As pointed out I don’t think you can rule out a transmission issue. Perhaps to eliminate that try putting it in neutral when you come to a stop, if it acts normally perhaps there is a problem with the TCC as suggested. If you have any check engine lights start with those, if not stick with the basics, don’t overcomplicate it. Check for vacuum leaks and look over the tune up items.
Solving Performance Problems 1
Solving Performance Problems 2
Re Performance Problems
I cleaned out the Throttle Body ,Intake Air Control valve, Idle Control Valve and the Mass Air Flow components and all works well now. Cleaned everything out about a month ago and haven’t had the problem since! Thanks allot for all your input! banana:
well yes, but my vehicles RPMs would drop to an abnormal amount which in my case was in the high 500’s. The norm for my vehicle is about 750. And there is a huge noticeable difference in the 350 RPM difference.
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