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Yes its almost like its missing. I had a ford f150 at one time that was missing on two of the cylinders and it felt similer.
Running rough… as in a miss fire?
I would do a power balance test on it.
Eric has a video on how to do it.
Heres a link to the video, if it doesn’t work just go to youtube.com and type in (Ericthecarguy power balance test) hope this helps.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAOmUjAjNjEPS: A compression test and fuel pressure test wouldn’t hurt either.T)
Quoted From matthewmartinez:
Yes its almost like its missing. I had a ford f150 at one time that was missing on two of the cylinders and it felt similer.
Ok, Did you watch Erics video?
I think i got the link fixed now.
Is the check engine light on and maybe a code?
Was it running bad before you changed the oil?
Maybe you knocked off a hose,check for a vacuum leak..
I would start with that before I start throwing parts at it.
Yes I was riding rough beforehand and I haven’t thrown any parts at it. I just changed the oil because it was way past due. I noticed the rough engine after I changed it and she said it had been like that for a while. I checked for vacuum leaks and I didn’t see any. I had also checked the air filter when I changed the oil but I mad sure everything was connected again once I was done. I performed the test and it doesn’t seem like its any one cylinder. They all did it at one point during the test. Not quite sure wha that means other than bad plugs or bad coil?
Yea start with any codes that you might have but before you replace any parts given that cars service history you might try a compression test first, there’s no point in putting parts on an engine that has internal damage. Here is a link to a video for you.
Did a compression test and the results are consistent with each other. Both wet and dry. When i removed the plugs they looked worn but the gap wasnt sealed. Any suggestions?
Did you cross reference your compression test results with the specs listed by the manufacturer?
There shouldn’t be any need to replace the ignition coils either unless its misfiring with a misfire code and the coil is faulty. Was the engine always running rough before you worked on it or did it start to run rough after you serviced the oil? Did you use the correct viscosity?
How thoroughly did you test for a vacuum leak bud? I think Eric has a video about using carb cleaner to look for it (have fire extinguisher handy), or you can use a butane torch (unlit), and if you run either across an area, and the idle rises, you have found the area of your leak. But if there was a misfire/vacuum leak caused by running lean, it should throw a code… Hrmm… Eric has another video about testing for spark. I always mess up linking anything on here, so just go to youtube and search ericthecarguy ignition testing, should find it.
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