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Hey all, sorry to add to the problem post list but here it is.
1996 Suzuki Esteem, 1.6L, automatic
The problem: When put in gear, either D or R, the rpm’s drop. Used live data and found that it idles in neutral and park around 800-1000 and in D and R it drops to 450 and slowly climbs back up. When returned to P or N from the others it spiked to 1200rpm only once. I can tell you that it stalls out sometimes, other times it just idles rough. Reverse tends to be the rougher idle of the two. I can also say, with some hesitation, that before it use to happen when the car was warmed up. Hope ya’ll could help me out. Thanks for reading!
Other details: Fuel injected, has code P0400 for some time now (I think it’s irrelevant).
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The p0400 is for the egr valve which could be causing the stalling/rough idle.
Remove the egr and clean the ports. Also check any vac lines to it to make sure
none are broken or cracked.I’ve had that code for almost 2 years now and this problem just began, I disagree. I don’t believe the egr code has anything to do with my stalling in gear. I would agree if it stalled when in parking but that is not the case.
I think the EGR is definitely a viable theory.
This may be difficult to accept, but when something (like an EGR system) is not functioning properly it only gets worse. This is why cars have OBD (onboard diagnostics). Because when a problem starts it should be fixed before the problem cascades into other systems. The EGR issue was ignored, and while it may not have caused a noticeable problem at first, it has now gotten worse and might have created a problem with other components.
So since we know the EGR system has had issues for two years, we should start there and then figure out what other systems might have been affected from ignoring the issue.
This theory is supported, mainly, because you have a severe problem, but no new codes.
I don’t know how you can reconcile the facts: you came on this forum STATING that you didn’t know what the problem was, but you somehow know what problems it isn’t. Good diagnostic procedure dictates that we look at the obvious and most simple possibilities first.Alright. So then my first step is to clear out the exhaust port for the egr gas passage in the exhaust manifold. I say this because the lines have been replaced since they are all easily accessible and the sensors seem to be doing okay. If you agree, do you have any tips for removing the exhaust manifold? At what temperature should I begin? should I replace the gaskets while I’m there?
You will need to get a new gasket. Exhaust gaskets are not supposed to be reused cause they can only create a perfect seal once.
As far as getting it loose: saturate all the bolts with “PB buster.”
When you detach the manifold from the engine, you could remove all the exhaust hangers and have enough play to swing the manifold back enough to get to that port…..maybe. That way you don’t have to get to the exhaust pipe/manifold connection. From what I remember it is a pain in the butt to remove the pipe from the manifold.
Good luck. Keep us updated.I’m sitting here thinking how I would scrub that port? Just shoot carb cleaner and pray it removes all the carbon?
I cleaned the egr port, replaces the exhaust gasket too today.Yesterday though, the problem went away by itself. Also, something new that started around the same time the low rpms began was this hissing noise during acceleration (it’s not the fuel system pumping through).
So, rpms stop dropping, egr port gets cleaned anyways, a noise I failed to mention earlier still occurs, and no check engine light returns. Ideas?
The hissing might be some part of the intake. because you’re not getting a code, I’m guessing the noise is coming from an intake tube before the mass air flow.
You could try listening around while a helper holds the rpms around 2500. Also try having the helper rev the engine from idle to 2500.
Did you clean the throttle body? If not, try pulling it off and giving it a good cleaning with a tooth brush and throttle body cleaner.Unless the EGR is stuck open, it cannot cause a problem with the idle. EGR is only active under engine load. EGR can sometimes cause a misfire under load, or a failure of an emissions test, but not normally idle problems. That is unless it’s hung open as I mentioned.
As for the idle issue, I’d be taking a close look at the idle control valve. By your description, it sounds like it might be sticking or not moving correctly. You might try tapping on it with the handle of a screwdriver to see if the idle changes while the engine is running. If it does, I recommend you replace the valve. People clean them with some success, but personally I would rather change them and be done with it.
I’ll also throw this in.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems
Good luck and keep us posted.
Well the rpms problem returned. In city traffic I’m stalling, sometimes, from a stop position on acceleration. Still no check engine light.
To describe its accompanying noise better: It’s a hissing/soft scratching noise on acceleration from the stop position. Goes away after 35mph or so. definitely present at 15mph (school zone) speed.
I’ll visually inspect the MAP sensor (not idle air control, Sir Eric) and update.
If your hearing a hissing check for vacuum leaks.
here is how.http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues?start=3#CheckforVacuumLeaks
Peek around under the hood while you have a helper recreating the noise.
Keep in mind; just because something sounds like a “hissing” doesn’t mean it’s actually air. It could be two parts rubbing together that somehow sounds like air hissing.
All I’m trying to say is look everywhere. Don’t assume it’s a vacuum leak and only look at vacuum lines. Look everywhere. You’re brain is associating the sound with air because it hasn’t heard this noise before.
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