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Hi Eric,
I want to replace my current Honda braking system due to rusty calipers. If I change my calipers to another brand, will I have difficulty installing it into my bracket? Also, do I need to stick with the pads and rotors from that brand? What are the best aftermarket rotors, brake pads, and calipers for my 2001 Honda Accord, Sedan, with 2.3LSOHC with ABS?Did you ever make an informative DIY video comparing the various brands of calipers, rotors, pads, etc. Which one goes well with what ?
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I am not a mechanic or an experienced DIYer but I will share the research I have found so far.
There are many manufacturers of brake components who also supply to the so called OEM brands.
STOPTECH provide some very good technical knowledge. Online go to…
stoptech.com
Technical Support
Technical White Papers
Understanding Braking Experiences
Technical Guides
What the engineers there share is not sales hype rubbish but real knowledge such as … Brake rotors are cast iron they do not warp under extreme braking.
Uneven deposition of brake pad material onto the contact surface of the rotors causes the phenomena of pulsating, juddering, vibrating brakes.As best I can tell from looking at one particular online site, everything that’s aftermarket is re-manufactured. By getting reman units that are either ‘semi-loaded’ or ‘friction ready’ you are getting complete caliper assemblies with the bracket and everything.
If you’re replacing the calipers for aesthetic reasons, you’re wasting your money. If you look online you can find several guides on how to paint brake calipers. The OEM part will be a better part as far as build quality than any aftermarket rebuilt unit.
If the exposed rubber parts are ripped or cracked, they can be bought separately. As well as the guide pins area available separately.
Dafirnz. I agree completely!
Metcalf101 by rusty did you mean seized? ( not retracting after braking)
My 11 year old calipers were rusty on the outside, so when I did brake service last fall I scuffed up the rust, cleaned with a blast of brake cleaner spray. I sprayed the bracket and piston housing with a rust sealer, and then three coats of barbeque black for it’s good heat resistance qualities. Once that is dry and fully cured (hardened) you could scuff up that finish and spray can paint them whatever color you want.
It’s now finally spring here and when changed my wheels from winter to summer I noticed the calipers are still shiny black.If we’re just talking about stock replacement parts, if it’s sold by a known retailer as being for your car, it should fit. Getting a Haynes/Chilton manual for your car and learning what you’re getting yourself into and what year-by-year changes to look out for is never a bad idea. If you’re talking about performance “upgrades,” that’s a whole ‘mother can of worms.
A bit about pads & shoes some may not know. When you buy new pads or shoes, there will be a two-letter code printed on the side of the friction material, usually EE, FF, or FE.
The farther down the alphabet you go, the greater the coefficient of friction (stickiness) of the friction material. So, D<E<F<G. D is garbage. G and up is mostly reserved for race pads. E is suitable for most drivers. F is a better choice for more spirited driving and climates with extreme heat.
Why two letters? The first letter is friction when cold. The second letter is friction when hot. EE & FF will have more consistent braking performance across a broader range of driving conditions. FE…won't. They will fade noticeably. There's not really a good reason to buy these. Consistent, predictable braking is king. EE as your economy and "normal duty" choice, FF for performance and heavy traffic applications, and FE for…paperweights?
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