- This topic has 8 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 8 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Hello, once again. The homemade puller worked great on the left side of my 2006 Honda Accord EX V6 3.0, (manual transmission). It is not working so well on the passenger side. When doing the left side, I received a nice reply about the “popping” technique that is commonly used and have tried to use that, but with no success. I realize there is a difference between a master mechanics “pop” and an amateur’s “pop”. I’ve tried the homemade slide hammer puller as well. It has a 2 pound hammer. The Haynes folks tell you to use a drift punch from the back side and drive it out. I’ve tried that too with no success. And, I’ve rotated the axle several times trying to keep a little symmetry on the splines. The outer axle is apart and only the end housing of the axle remains attached to the intermediate shaft. I assume there is no way to get lubricant to the splines.I can see no reason why this won’t break loose, but thought I would run it past the experts here to see if I may be missing something. Thanks again for your replies. Much appreciated.
-
Replies
-
Yes, I believe I could get one of those in there, maybe even a tri-pod puller. But I’m struggling to see how this would work. Your additional comments would be appreciated.Thank you.
I just gave you some useless advice. I wasn’t thinking through the fact that the axle end is solid so this wouldn’t work. Maybe the big persuader (hammer) and pry bar. Hope you get it. Let us know.
Remove the intermediate shaft witht he tulip stil attached. There should only be 3 bolts holding the bracket onto the block. The intermediate shaft should come right out of the transmission. You’ll probably have more luck putting the intermediate into a vice and using a drift and a hammer to remove the end of the CV axle. I can’t explain why but the CVs have always gone into the intermediate shaft with the intention not to come apart.
Thanks for the information DaFirnz. I’m getting ready to tackle that project in just a few minutes. I’m glad to hear the problem may not be my inadequate swing of the hammer. My question now is: should I replace the intermediate axle (366,000 miles on car) since it will be out of the car? Also, if not, are there any c-clips or seals that will need to be replaced? Thanks again for any additional input.
For what is is worth, I stumbled upon a very nice Power Point presentation for CV axles. It was a real education for me and I was happy to find it. Here is the link: http://www.teachercenter.e1b.org/cms/lib/NY19000451/…/110/fwd%20axle%20shafts.ppt
Since I was able to download this without incident and did not see any copyright disclosure information, I assume it is freely available on the internet for personal use. If in doubt, you may want to contact the school that authored it.
Replacing parts and seals that aren’t failing or failed is up to you to decide personally. The intermediate shaft itself is likely a dealer only part, so who knows what the cost would be like. But the axle seal would be a good opportunity to get it while it’s easy.
Back from a 10 day absence due to an IRS audit. Less fun than working on a serious Honda problem, but successful nonetheless. I am trying to replace the passenger side CV Axle. My problem is that I cannot separate the intermediate axle from the CV-Axle on the passenger side. I guess I’m down to a few options short of failure. I have removed two of the three bolts holding the intermediate shaft to the engine, but cannot get the most outboard bolt loose. I assumed that if the bracket was removed, I would be able to take the intermediate shaft and stuck tulip out without too much difficulty. But there is not enough room to get a socket (even wobbler) into the area because of the stuck tulip and I can’t even get a 12 point wrench into this area, although I am not a fan of 12 point wrenches for stuck bolts. I can get an extended open end wrench in there, but there is not much room for excursion. I have soaked the bolt (again this morning) trying to get a mechanical advantage on the bolt, but I am afraid I may end up rounding the bolt head. Not good. The other option I suppose is to remove the exhaust manifold (if that is possible to remove by itself), but that seems risky to me as well, knowing how difficult it can be to loosen a bolt exposed to high heat. One particular question that I do have is: “what are the consequences of hitting the tulip with extreme force (provided I put the two intermediate shaft bracket bolts back in)?” I have tried the “popping” method without success and have used quite a bit of hammer force on the tulip using a long tapered punch, but without success. I will once again appreciate any suggestions. Thank you.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.