Restoring an old A/C System on 94 Taurus

[Gene]

OK, so I am back with my 1994 Ford Taurus GL, 4-dr sedan, 3.0L OHV FI engine (Engine Code U) with another issue.

Thanks to the help here (Thanks again to all who have commented & helped!) and Eric Videos, I have completed the following repairs so far:
[i]Replaced Rear Qtr Panel Window
Repaired Passenger side head light – caved in
Replace Heater Core
Replaced Driver door latch
Driver door – RUST
Driver door window seal
Replace Thermostat
Replace leaking Radiator
Replaced all cooling related hoses
Replace Ignition Key lock
Fixed Front end vibration
Repaired Windshield Washer[/i]

Now the last major item on my “wish list” of repairs for this car is getting the A/C system running again!

The History
Got car ~ 5yrs ago from a relative who was the original owner. It now has ~90,000 miles on it. The AC went out probably 10+ years ago and the owner was told it could cost as much as $1K to repair and decided to run with just “480 Air” ( 4-windows and 80 mph!) Now that I have been getting dirty I like to try to get the AC running again. I’m not sure I’ll know what to do with a car that has both heat and cooling! 😉 But hey, I’d like to try!

While I had the dashboard torn out of the car to replace the Heater Core, I also replaced the Evaporator. I left the seals on the ends of the evaporator as to not introduce any moisture or inadvertent debris, bugs, etc until I decide to repair the AC system. Since the Accumulator/Drier was broken open during that repair, I know that it needs to be replaced. (I assume with some kind of leak and 10 years time, replacing the drier would have been required anyway.) Oh, and while replacing the radiator, I found one of the lines separated on the “cluster” called the AC Manifold and Tube (basic part number 19D734). Looks like the “crimped on” factory clamp at the rubber to metal connection was gone. So I pushed it back together and added a hose clamp.

The Question
So the question is what steps do I need to take to restore this AC System?

Proposed Procedure – please comment on!
I have watched 7 videos on the topic and read Eric’s writings and wonder if the below defined path is the way to go? Must be some missing steps? Might be out of order? Please let me know?

A. Buy & Install a new Accumulator/Drier
B. Run a vacuum check on the system to see if it leaks (holds vacuum)
C-1 Leaks= Yes: Pressure test with dye to find the leak & repair
C-2 Leaks= No –> go to next step
D. Check compressor function, clutch engaging, fan cycling, pressures hold, temperature check in passenger compartment
E. All OK? Yes = REJOICE! No= Ask more questions
F. Use Cal-Clean to clean the Condenser for optimum performance

Ok, yeah, and I get to fight those lovely Ford spring lock couplings again! Guess we’ll see if I learned well from the advice on this forum!

Basically it looks like THIS system has 6 parts to it:

1. Evaporator (already replaced= new)
2. Accumulator/Drier w/ associated hose (will replace with new)
3. Condenser to Evaporator Tube
4. A/C Manifold and Tube (set) aka Refrigerant discharge / Suction hose assembly
5. Compressor with clutch
6. Condenser

Since I can get the three hoses with Drier and condenser for under 150 and a compressor for under 200, I wonder if it doesn’t make sense to replace everything? Or can I get away with minimal repairs?

Also I suspect I need to add PAG oil somewhere in the above noted process- probably at the time I recharge the system with R134.

Also wonder if I need to replace ALL of the seals. I know if this was an R12 to R134 conversion all new seals would be required. But it isn’t, so do I need new seals all around?

What else am I missing? How should I approach this?

Thanks again! Looking forward to the kind help!

Topic

[Andrew Phillips]

[quote=”CanDo807″ post=139346]I found one of the lines separated on the “cluster” called the AC Manifold and Tube (basic part number 19D734). Looks like the “crimped on” factory clamp at the rubber to metal connection was gone. So I pushed it back together and added a hose clamp.[/quote]
Replace that lineset, do not attempt to pressurize the system with that hose clamped together.

Since I can get the three hoses with Drier and condenser for under 150 and a compressor for under 200, I wonder if it doesn’t make sense to replace everything? Or can I get away with minimal repairs?

I would. Plus that would insure that there isn’t any dirt or contamination hidden somewhere, and you wouldn’t need to clean the condenser as you proposed.

Also I suspect I need to add PAG oil somewhere in the above noted process- probably at the time I recharge the system with R134.

Also wonder if I need to replace ALL of the seals. I know if this was an R12 to R134 conversion all new seals would be required. But it isn’t, so do I need new seals all around?

In order to ensure the correct amount of oil, you will need to remove the compressor and drain the oil from it into a container where you can measure how much is there. Find how much total oil is supposed to be in the system, subtract from that the amount you drained from the compressor. Return the oil to the compressor, and add the difference you calculated when you charge the system. If you decide to replace the compressor, you may still have to do this procedure as some of them come pre-filled with oil.

As long as the system was previously running 134a you only need to replace the seals if they require it due to deterioration or damage.

[Gene]

Thanks for the helpful information! I have parts ordered and should have them for the weekend!

Have been looking at new condensers and note that there are three kinds – how do I figure out which style I have? Does it matter? Is one style an improvement on the other styles?

Also I keep seeing orifice repair kits and a few orifices. Where are those located? do I need a new one?

Been thinking I’d try to see if the old compressor still works is there some kind of flush or cleaning I need to do before attempting to put it back in service after being down for years?

Thanks again!

[Andrew Phillips]

The orifice tube is located in the condenser-to-evaporator line. If you are replacing this line it should come with an orifice tube installed already. If you are not replacing this line, then along the line you will see a bulging section, which is a cover. Slide it back, and you will find a connection. Open that connection and the orifice tube will be inside. Definitely replace this if you are not replacing the whole line already.

[Andrew Phillips]

[quote=”CanDo807″ post=139530]Been thinking I’d try to see if the old compressor still works is there some kind of flush or cleaning I need to do before attempting to put it back in service after being down for years?[/quote]
Remove the compressor and empty its contents. If you see any dirt or metal flakes then you should replace the compressor. If the oil that comes out is clean then the compressor has a good chance of still being usable. You won’t know for sure until you try to charge the system, though.

[Gene]

[quote=”cap269″ post=139537]The orifice tube is located in the condenser-to-evaporator line. If you are replacing this line it should come with an orifice tube installed already. If you are not replacing this line, then along the line you will see a bulging section, which is a cover. Slide it back, and you will find a connection. Open that connection and the orifice tube will be inside. Definitely replace this if you are not replacing the whole line already.[/quote]

OH shoot! I think that is the one line I decided not to buy. Goodness I think the orifice kit is as expensive as the line alone.

I received the Manifold Hoses (suction & discharge) today and got them installed this evening. Had to pull the lower radiator hose to get it out and of course had more fun with the Ford “quick connects”! I just “love” those Ford quick connects! (NOT!) Anyway, transferred over the pressure switch and something else that looked like either a sight glass or Schrader valve. It was pretty straight-forward.

Tomorrow the Accumulator/Drier is suppose to arrive so I’ll get that installed soon too. That will at least require pulling the washer fluid reservoir/coolant overflow reservoir set. Had that out to replace the washer pump so confident in that part of it.

Not looking forward to pulling the compressor. Looked like I’ll have to pull the PS pump and the alternator just to get to the compressor? Oh what fun! Is there an easier way to do this?

[Gene]

So is the orifice part of this hose assembly

Or this one?

Here’s the system

Attachments:

• ACRefrigerantHose.jpg
• Accumulator-Drier.jpg
• ACSystemLayout-SvcManual2.jpg

[Andrew Phillips]

[quote=”CanDo807″ post=139600]

[/quote]
That one.

[EricTheCarGuy]

I don’t know if it’s been mentioned already but I believe you should also retrofit the system to work on 134a. Sorry if that’s already been mentioned.

Don’t be surprised if you run into issues. AC has a way of doing that. Good luck and keep us posted.

[Gene]

Thanks Eric!

Fortunately, this system is already R134a refrigerant!

I am using this as a test/education on the process so that when I start work on the ’89 Accord, I can do the R-12 to R134a conversion. So THANK YOU for that link – I’m sure it will be most helpful!

I’m sure there is some “fun” lying ahead in this repair…. now just waiting on UPS to get here with the parts! (they’ve been “Out for Delivery” for 11 hours now!) edit- delivered at 6:30 PM – 12hr on truck.

Attachments:

• TaurusRefrigerant.jpg

[Gene]

Thanks to all for the advice so far! 1/3

OK so the fun has started on the A/C repair/restoration!

Spent the day fighting with Ford’s lovely “quick connects!” { I LOVE quick connects!} These things and I just don’t get along very well. I think I’d prefer compression fittings! I did learn a new “trick” which is really an old trick if one is paying attention [after all the theory of an impact wrench makes sense, so it follows to carry this “style” over to other things) So the “trick” is to not only pull like heck, but also twist & turn. Oh, and I guess eating your Wheaties, spinach and vitamins wouldn’t hurt either? Or is that just my personal problem? :unsure:

Now something else I did which isn’t shown, and thus may not be advisable…. I oiled the female end of the quick connect joint. Sure I have seen advice about oiling the o-rings, so figured the other side could use some help too! Nothing a little Q-tip wouldn’t help?

So that worked well getting the evaporator linked up and the condenser too! But where I have a problem is the accumulator/drier line to the manifold line set connection. I have the joint together but can not get the quick connect to seat – it won’t go the last 1/8th inch! I tried putting pliers on the incoming (female) side of the line and twisting and turning as I was forcing the connection together – but no luck. [No, not on the metal tube itself, but further down the line on the crimped on connector between the metal and rubber hose section.] Then I tried the same thing in reverse – trying to take the connection apart and now it doesn’t move in that direction! If it is that stuck I suspect it is sealed, but who knows? so……. What do I do?

Attachments:

• ACRepair044.jpg
• ACRepair046.jpg
• ACRepair051.jpg

[Gene]

<font color="#bbbbff]In my best Ron Popeil voice..[/color]. [color=#ff0000″>But wait! THERE’S MORE!!!!! ……..2/3

Spent over an hour (at least) trying to get the manifold to line up with and seat on the compressor. Oh sure, when I replaced that line Thursday evening it was some fun getting it lined up but eventually it seated flat and I could tighten the bolt down. Then of course I took it off to give myself some play in making the connection above (the one that hasn’t finished!) Also, I eventually took the bracket off – the one that holds the mufflers apart – but that didn’t do much to help things. So now it is taking some force (of the bolt) to get this joint together and it is not seating. No seating and the o-ring on the compressor doesn’t seal! Sigh.

Who can help me figure this out?

Attachments:

• ACRepair053a.jpg
• ACRepair034.jpg

[Gene]

dare I say more? ……………………………….3/3

Oh, and finally….. I “found” a couple of electrical connections just “hanging out” in the vicinity of the drier! Anyone know what these go to? I did not take them apart during THIS repair. I went back and checked my raw pictures from the Heater Core Replacement and see these connectors flopping in the breeze in those shots! Anyone know what these connectors are or where they go to?

These connectors have me wondering something else… When one takes their broken A/C into a shop and the owner decides the repair is too expensive…. and the technician offers to “disconnect” the A/C system for better efficiency, then what is the “standard operating procedure?” In other words what else was the technician likely to have done to the car/system? What needs to be “undone” to get the system to work again? What else should I check?

Thanks in advance. I know I’m going to get this figured out and have cool air at some point, but sure it is going to be an education along the way!

Attachments:

• ACRepair047.jpg
• ACRepair048.jpg
• ACRepair049.jpg

[Mike]

Every wiring harness ever made has orphaned plugs dangling from it somewhere. Different trim lines of the same vehicle will come with different standard equipment and available options. It’s easier for manufacturers to engineer and build a single wiring harness that can be used with all possible combinations of available equipment.

[Andrew Phillips]

[quote=”CanDo807″ post=139941]

[/quote]

Those are the ALDL (assembly line diagnostic link) connectors. They are not supposed to be connected to anything. That is where the scan tool (pre-OBD2) connects.

[Gene]

Thank you Evil-i and Cap269! I won’t stress over those connectors any more!

Still wondering if there are “standard” things that get disconnected when the dealer disables an A/C system – or things I should look for?

Also still scratching my head over that last quick connect and how to get the manifold to line up with the compressor. If I get a seal then I can play with the vacuum pump and gage set I borrowed!

[Author]

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