- This topic has 15 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 12 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
-
Replies
-
I’m all in favor of clever short cuts, but the cutting and grinding approach is literally a “hack”. I expect better.
I like the shortcut. But do you need the new stud to be full-length? Why not cut it shorter and get it in without grinding the head. I’ve done this to motor mount bolts that I deemed too long.
What surprises me is that Honda still has not engineered a slot to allow easy replacement after all these years….
This topic should generate some lively discussion. Hopefully not as bad as the headlight video… 🙂
Karl
For those who don’t understand how much work it would be to replace the bearings after pulling the hub check out this link…
If you are willing to spend $75 to $175 for a new bearing and 2 to 2.5 hours labor at $75 to $100 an hour, great… Most people would choose Erics method.. .5 hour work and 2 x $3.99 studs…
While I would never do this technique to a new car, I would have no issue doing it to a 15 year old car where the owner has little money and I told him what I was going to do.
Another cheap fix would be to crack the bearing by just removing the hub… The race will stick on the hub and you just press it back in…but I have seen that cause later issues with the bearing…
The way Eric did it in the video is A way, he made it clear it was not THE way… One size does not fit all with regards to repairs…factors such as age and amount the customer can spend can make this method the “right” fix.
Karl
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=79063]For those who don’t understand how much work it would be to replace the bearings after pulling the hub check out this link…
If you are willing to spend $75 to $175 for a new bearing and 2 to 2.5 hours labor at $75 to $100 an hour, great… Most people would choose Erics method.. .5 hour work and 2 x $3.99 studs…
While I would never do this technique to a new car, I would have no issue doing it to a 15 year old car where the owner has little money and I told him what I was going to do.
Another cheap fix would be to crack the bearing by just removing the hub… The race will stick on the hub and you just press it back in…but I have seen that cause later issues with the bearing…
The way Eric did it in the video is A way, he made it clear it was not THE way… One size does not fit all with regards to repairs…factors such as age and amount the customer can spend can make this method the “right” fix.
Karl[/quote]
True it is a HUGE pain in the rear to do it as the book requires. But, I am not sure if I would do a customer’s car this way even if I had a signed disclaimer.
Even with a disclaimer, unapproved modifications (especially on something that attaches the wheels to the car) could easily make you lose a lawsuit.
[quote=”Rereonehundred” post=79050]I’m all in favor of clever short cuts, but the cutting and grinding approach is literally a “hack”. I expect better.[/quote]
I see your point but ‘better’ in this case would require my friend to spend a lot more money for no gain in my opinion. Can you really say that my ‘hack’ stud repair is better than no stud at all?
[quote=”brandy” post=79057]Long live cars with wheel bolts. No such problems there :P[/quote]
Except when you’re trying to mount an 80lb tire while you line up the bolts. 🙂
[quote=”Raistian77″ post=79077][quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=79063]For those who don’t understand how much work it would be to replace the bearings after pulling the hub check out this link…
If you are willing to spend $75 to $175 for a new bearing and 2 to 2.5 hours labor at $75 to $100 an hour, great… Most people would choose Erics method.. .5 hour work and 2 x $3.99 studs…
While I would never do this technique to a new car, I would have no issue doing it to a 15 year old car where the owner has little money and I told him what I was going to do.
Another cheap fix would be to crack the bearing by just removing the hub… The race will stick on the hub and you just press it back in…but I have seen that cause later issues with the bearing…
The way Eric did it in the video is A way, he made it clear it was not THE way… One size does not fit all with regards to repairs…factors such as age and amount the customer can spend can make this method the “right” fix.
Karl[/quote]
True it is a HUGE pain in the rear to do it as the book requires. But, I am not sure if I would do a customer’s car this way even if I had a signed disclaimer.
Even with a disclaimer, unapproved modifications (especially on something that attaches the wheels to the car) could easily make you lose a lawsuit.[/quote]
I’ve seen a lot of overreaction to this video today. Many are saying they should sue me, that I’m endangering the public at large and that sort of thing.
My question to them which is still unanswered is, do you really think no stud is better than a ‘hack’ stud? If so, please explain. The owner of this vehicle drove this car with a broken stud for at least a year with no issues. I did not break the stud a tire shop did some time ago. When I tried to remove one of the lug nuts on the wheel with the broken stud to inspect his brakes, another stud broke. I could not let him leave with 2 broken studs so I suggested I replace them. He was informed of how I would go about it and he was fine with it. My point is that he came in with one broken stud that turned into 2 broken studs and left with 2 new studs and lugs to match. How is he worse off then when he came in?
I realize there are many objections on principal but I challenge anyone to provide proof that this is actually a dangerous practice. If they can provide REAL proof and not some trumped up opinion I’ll make a video response to this video showing the evidence and how I was wrong. Otherwise I respect your opinions but please, be realistic in your assessment. I’m an open minded person who’s willing to accept when I’m wrong. I really wish people would stop treating me like a criminal because I was trying to save my friend some money and me some time. Not to mention this video was a long standing request from the very people that are vilifying me today.
🙂 I have also used this method to install wheel studs on a 04 Nissan Altima and on a 96 Ford T-bird. You would think that the engineers would have made a simple access point for this type of replacement, but they never work on cars. The amount of noise over this is ridiculous, for the type of work and the savings it represents. There are two reasons you do not get to watch a mechanic work, one is for your safety in a dangerous environment, and the other is to keep you from armchair quarter-backing the person working on your vehicle. A competent and honest mechanic will do the correct thing to do your repair, but many short cuts are developed to save time and work on jobs and sometimes the public does not need to see it. It is not done with the intent of harming someone, but to make a hard job easier to complete. As long as the owner knows what is going to be done and gives the approval to perform the shortcut, no one else should be upset over it.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=79095][quote=”brandy” post=79057]Long live cars with wheel bolts. No such problems there :P[/quote]
Except when you’re trying to mount an 80lb tire while you line up the bolts. :)[/quote]
There is a fairly nice tool to help with that and inexpensive especially if you work on a lot of vehicles with lug bolts.
http://www.reverselogic.us/lug-bolt-guides.html
As far as the feedback, many people would see that as something that you either do right or don’t do at all. But as you said can anyone actually claim doing that is worse than not doing anything. As long as the owner understood what was going to happen i’d have no problem doing it on a heap but that’s me. Many people on the internets are hysterical and clueless. If they want to be worried about something be worried about the people out there who have their vehicles held together with bailing wire or have metal to metal brakes. And there are a lot. Cant really pay the vocal minority any mind.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=79096][quote=”Raistian77″ post=79077][quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=79063]For those who don’t understand how much work it would be to replace the bearings after pulling the hub check out this link…
If you are willing to spend $75 to $175 for a new bearing and 2 to 2.5 hours labor at $75 to $100 an hour, great… Most people would choose Erics method.. .5 hour work and 2 x $3.99 studs…
While I would never do this technique to a new car, I would have no issue doing it to a 15 year old car where the owner has little money and I told him what I was going to do.
Another cheap fix would be to crack the bearing by just removing the hub… The race will stick on the hub and you just press it back in…but I have seen that cause later issues with the bearing…
The way Eric did it in the video is A way, he made it clear it was not THE way… One size does not fit all with regards to repairs…factors such as age and amount the customer can spend can make this method the “right” fix.
Karl[/quote]
True it is a HUGE pain in the rear to do it as the book requires. But, I am not sure if I would do a customer’s car this way even if I had a signed disclaimer.
Even with a disclaimer, unapproved modifications (especially on something that attaches the wheels to the car) could easily make you lose a lawsuit.[/quote]
I’ve seen a lot of overreaction to this video today. Many are saying they should sue me, that I’m endangering the public at large and that sort of thing.
My question to them which is still unanswered is, do you really think no stud is better than a ‘hack’ stud? If so, please explain. The owner of this vehicle drove this car with a broken stud for at least a year with no issues. I did not break the stud a tire shop did some time ago. When I tried to remove one of the lug nuts on the wheel with the broken stud to inspect his brakes, another stud broke. I could not let him leave with 2 broken studs so I suggested I replace them. He was informed of how I would go about it and he was fine with it. My point is that he came in with one broken stud that turned into 2 broken studs and left with 2 new studs and lugs to match. How is he worse off then when he came in?
I realize there are many objections on principal but I challenge anyone to provide proof that this is actually a dangerous practice. If they can provide REAL proof and not some trumped up opinion I’ll make a video response to this video showing the evidence and how I was wrong. Otherwise I respect your opinions but please, be realistic in your assessment. I’m an open minded person who’s willing to accept when I’m wrong. I really wish people would stop treating me like a criminal because I was trying to save my friend some money and me some time. Not to mention this video was a long standing request from the very people that are vilifying me today.[/quote]
Eric, I think you misunderstand me. I do not think it is a bad procedure and I do not think you are wrong.
But as a shop owner and technician if the customer were to have an incident he could use that repair to his advantage. And because a judge and jury are not technicians all they would hear is “cut up the wheel studs” and would probably pass a bad judgment on the shop. I tend to look at allot of things from a tort viewpoint after having been sued myself, I won because I could prove I warned the customer of the impending failure and I showed where I did follow protocol for the repair I did do.
So please do not think I am criticizing or judging your repair, all I am saying is that modifying a wheel stud could be the greatest gift an ambulance chaser ever got.
And remember guys informing the customer is NOT a foolproof cya, the judge can easily decide that the customer did not have enough knowledge of auto repair to make a good decision to approve the modification. Wish I had a digital copy of the article I read years ago that stuck with me. A lady calls a local repair shop telling them her oil light is on and what should she do. The tech answered that on that model of BMW the oil sending units fail often and illuminate the light even though there is oil pressure. She asked if she could drive it in and the tech says that she should have it towed, but it was her car and her decision. She tried to drive it in and the engine seized, the BMW was towed to a dealer and the engine replaced, she sued the shop she called and WON. The judge stated that the tech was a “trained professional” and giving her an option that was not recommend by the manufacture put him and the shop at liability for the damage that occurred.
[quote=”Raistian77″ post=79277]
Eric, I think you misunderstand me. I do not think it is a bad procedure and I do not think you are wrong.
But as a shop owner and technician if the customer were to have an incident he could use that repair to his advantage. And because a judge and jury are not technicians all they would hear is “cut up the wheel studs” and would probably pass a bad judgment on the shop. I tend to look at allot of things from a tort viewpoint after having been sued myself, I won because I could prove I warned the customer of the impending failure and I showed were I did follow protocol for the repair I did do.
So please do not think I am criticizing or judging your repair, all I am saying is that modifying a wheel stud could be the greatest gift an ambulance chaser ever got.[/quote]
If there was an accident I cant see 1 or 2 lugs out of the 5 or 6 on a wheel as being the cause so any lawsuit chasing that would be pretty thin in my opinion. Its a redundant system intentionally and tire shops across America snap or cross thread studs daily and most people are oblivious to the fact until it rolls into another shop. Having said that i’d never do this to the majority of the studs either. I just wouldn’t be comfortable with it. 1 or 2 on a wheel that has 5 or 6, okay, but all or nearly all? Not for me.
Easy way from video is a standard and there is nothing risky.
Btw. This is only way to do it, if i will not count way with a new bearing.
Stay dirty and with cool head my friends 😉I have been working on cars for 45+ years and I have done exactly what Eric did in his video and have NEVER had a problem. Grinding the side of the stud has NOT weakened it in any way and you can buy them already ground off. Getting it too hot is not good however.
Notching the splash shield will do NO damage to anything as long as it’s not flopping around. Hell, in our climate they sometimes completely rust off without any ill effects.
Maybe a little more grinding here and there would have helped to not make it appear as bad as it seemed.
It still gives us a perspective on what needs to be done and why, if anyone here needs to replace a stud. The way all the self made experts here handle the job is up to them. Most people don’t give a damn how the job is done as long as it’s effective and as cheap as possible.
Keep focusing straight ahead Eric.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.