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Good video!
To vacuum-bleed these clutch hydraulics (and possibly even brakes) you could possibly use your AC vacuum pump and a Woulff bottle:
The bottle prevents the pump from drawing fluid if it is attached to the connection with the “short straw”, and the vacuum created by the pump should be sufficient to perform that task. What might be good for a shop environment, is to get a bottle made from plastic (it has to be rigid to sustain the vacuum, though), since the glass bottles for a lab are…well, made from glass and thus fragile. You could also build this yourself, should not be too hard.
I have not tried this myself, just thought of it as I was watching the video.
[quote=”brandy” post=56951]Good video!
To vacuum-bleed these clutch hydraulics (and possibly even brakes) you could possibly use your AC vacuum pump and a Woulff bottle:
The bottle prevents the pump from drawing fluid if it is attached to the connection with the “short straw”, and the vacuum created by the pump should be sufficient to perform that task. What might be good for a shop environment, is to get a bottle made from plastic (it has to be rigid to sustain the vacuum, though), since the glass bottles for a lab are…well, made from glass and thus fragile. You could also build this yourself, should not be too hard.
I have not tried this myself, just thought of it as I was watching the video.[/quote]
Great suggestion! That’s pretty much what the vacuum bleeders use but I really like your idea.
First off, I’m a long time fan! Been watching ETCG since his first video! I just never came to the forum before.
In regards to the clutch master cylinder, I use to adjust this for cars that had worn/older clutches as the “catch point” when releasing the clutch would not be near the floor anymore. I had a mechanic tell me that I should not do this and I could hurt my clutch (but the reason I did it was because I hated having my clutch catch half way up). These were older cars of course and the clutch was past its half life.
Can anyone tell me why this may be a bad idea? Why is it adjustable in the first place with so much room for adjusting and if I was in the right or the wrong?
(I do realize that the clutch still has to fully engage/disengage but for older clutches it seems the pedal’s catch point rises towards you as it gets older. Is this adjustment for this issue?)
Thanks
Eric, what are you doing when you’re adjusting the “effective length of the rod”? Can’t really see but are you twisting the rod with your fingers (after loosening the jam nut)?
[quote=”ourkid2000″ post=57409]Eric, what are you doing when you’re adjusting the “effective length of the rod”? Can’t really see but are you twisting the rod with your fingers (after loosening the jam nut)?[/quote]
Yes, the rod twists. Which shortens or lengthens it and changing the pedal’s catch point.
I can see how adjusting this incorrectly with a new clutch could break it as it will not fully engage or disengage. But at the same time it would make your pedal catch point really high or really low. My question is…, is it safe to adjust this to have your pedal catch point at the proper positio on worn clutches.
A couple of days ago, I headed out to take the wife to work, and noticed that the clutch pedal was getting pretty close to the floor before the clutch released. I figured it was fluid loss, so when I got her to work, I stopped in WalMart and picked up some brake fluid to fill it up, I then went looking for a leak. It didn’t take long for me to spot quite a bit of fluid on the rubber hose beneath the air intake tube. I piked up a new hose from the parts store, then headed home and looked up this video, which I remembered watching a while back.
After going through the video, I went back outside and inspected the master cylinder up under the dash. Sure enough, there was some brake fluid there as well. Another trip to the parts store, and I came home with both the master, and slave cylinders.
Sure enough the video was right on the mark, the biggest problem I had was getting that stubborn cotter pin out. Mine came out in pieces, but with a pair of needle nose vice grips, and a pick, I did finally manage to get the bugger out.
The only other difficulty I had was with the line fitting down on the master. Mine was corroded on there pretty good, and even with a flare nut wrench, the corners were giving way before it finally popped lose. Took plenty of penetrating oil. One note, on ABS equipped cars, there is a control module there. Remove it, disconnect the three wiring harness plugs, and use a bungee or some string to pull the three plugs up toward the wiper arm and hold them out of the way.
Much thanks for the video, the whole system is new now, and all the old cruddy fluid has been flushed out and replaced with nice clean DOT3 fluid. Should have a couple hundred thousand more miles in it now lol.
[quote=”ourkid2000″ post=57409]Eric, what are you doing when you’re adjusting the “effective length of the rod”? Can’t really see but are you twisting the rod with your fingers (after loosening the jam nut)?[/quote]
It sets the initial free play. You need to get it right. If not you could damage the clutch or it won’t work correctly. As for not being able to see it. Try shooting video under your dash sometime. It’s a challenge, trust me.
[quote=”Tomh” post=66484]A couple of days ago, I headed out to take the wife to work, and noticed that the clutch pedal was getting pretty close to the floor before the clutch released. I figured it was fluid loss, so when I got her to work, I stopped in WalMart and picked up some brake fluid to fill it up, I then went looking for a leak. It didn’t take long for me to spot quite a bit of fluid on the rubber hose beneath the air intake tube. I piked up a new hose from the parts store, then headed home and looked up this video, which I remembered watching a while back.
After going through the video, I went back outside and inspected the master cylinder up under the dash. Sure enough, there was some brake fluid there as well. Another trip to the parts store, and I came home with both the master, and slave cylinders.
Sure enough the video was right on the mark, the biggest problem I had was getting that stubborn cotter pin out. Mine came out in pieces, but with a pair of needle nose vice grips, and a pick, I did finally manage to get the bugger out.
The only other difficulty I had was with the line fitting down on the master. Mine was corroded on there pretty good, and even with a flare nut wrench, the corners were giving way before it finally popped lose. Took plenty of penetrating oil. One note, on ABS equipped cars, there is a control module there. Remove it, disconnect the three wiring harness plugs, and use a bungee or some string to pull the three plugs up toward the wiper arm and hold them out of the way.
Much thanks for the video, the whole system is new now, and all the old cruddy fluid has been flushed out and replaced with nice clean DOT3 fluid. Should have a couple hundred thousand more miles in it now lol.[/quote]
I love success stories like this. It means I’m doing my job. Thanks for your post.
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