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changed the slave as a start hoping that’s what’s causing my gf’s clutch to mess up everytime it warms up. We bleed it and it was working great but spongy. We tried to rebleed with no tools just the edal pump method and now have absolutely zero pressure unless u Manually push in slave cylinder but then nothing again once u pen the bleeder. We tried a vacuum bkeeder too now but that’s all we can get our hands on. Is slave in the master? If so how do we get it out.
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the slave cylinder is usually on the transmission. It’s usually fed by a hydraulic line from the clutch master cylinder, which is usually located right under or next to the brake master cylinder.
If the slave cylinder wasn’t leaking when you replaced it then it probably wasn’t your problem.
when you bleed the clutch system you do it just like you would bleed brakes. Hold the clutch down, open the bleeder valve and close it before you let the clutch back up. I’m not a fan of bleeding clutch systems with vacuum bleeders. I can never seem to get all the air out of the lines that way for some reason or another.
Well it wasnt leaking. But we need to least check that wasnt it. But we cant bleed the system. Absolutely zero pressure.
Agreed.
Possible test, if you can get to the line that feeds the slave at the master? Shove a few “Pig Mats” or something to catch any spray.
Remove the line from the master. Fill the master. Put your finger over the port and have a helper GENTLY press down on the pedal.
If it forces your finger off with considerable pressure? Press down HARDER and try again. On the other hand—if nothing happens? Bad. If you can’t maintain ‘plugging’ the port, and it seems like a whole bunch of force? Might be something else going on.
Then again, it’s also pretty simple to examine the area that it mounts to. Normally when things like this fail? It will allow fluid to leak past the main seal—and you’ll have visible ‘staining’ just under where the pushrod goes. (also can happen on the inside of the car where it enters/exits the firewall.) It’s not a fool proof method–but it catches it sometimes.
S-
I don’t know what type of vehicle this is but Toyotas can have a separate reservoir in the brake master cylinder reservoir… you can’t see it unless it is empty and look to the rear through the plastic and see that it may be empty… even though there appears to be plenty of brake fluid and there is adequate brake fluid for the brakes..
So perhaps you have let all the fluid drain out when replacing/bleeding the slave and have not replaced fluid to the proper level in the “hidden” reservoir… worth a look.,..
Just a thought..
-Karl
No visible leaking from the master inside or outside the car. But even if master is bad clutch pressure was fine b4 changing slave so shouldn’t I be able to bleed and get pressure. Ill do that test on the master this weekend.
When the car gets hot running temp the clutch stops engaging. Everything I read said its the slave or master. Btw how do I fill the master and which line. Are u talkimg about disconnecting tube from master cylinder resivour and pourimg fluid down the tube and dissconnecting other end tjat leads to slave and putting finger over that. Btw after vac bleed there is a very lil pressure at the end of pressimg clutch. Just enough toove car if needed
[quote=”dallasboycows” post=105770]When the car gets hot running temp the clutch stops engaging.[/quote]
The pressure you normally feel at the clutch pedal is produced by the springs in the pressure plate pushing the piston in the slave back which moves brake fluid up the line to the master cylinder, pushing the piston back in the master cylinder and against the pedal. Depress the pedal and you are compressing the springs in the pressure plate and this is what you feel.
Anyway, the springs in the pressure plate are what clamps the clutch disc and causes the clutch to engage. The clutch disc is covered with friction material that wears away with use. Over time the disc gets thinner. This means the springs in the pressure plate extend farther and the pressure on the disc is weaker. Eventually, the pressure plate won’t hold the clutch disc and it slips. Then it is time for a new clutch.
It sounds to me like there might be air in the system, which is keeping the slave from working properly. I would double check that there is indeed fluid in the clutch reservoir (or the clutch section of the brake reservoir) and that all air has been properly bled out of the system.
OP, please, follow Karl’s advice and post vehicle make model and year. We are blindly guessing right now and mostly because of the lack of this basic but crucial info. Some clutch systems are quite goofy, like Mazda/Ford ones, with baffled shared fluid canister and very easy to damage hydraulic line seal.
So please, start with that. Then, locate your master fluid canister and check on fluid level. If level is OK, slave is not leaking, then your master has blown piston seal and develops no pressure.
Next step is to check on firewall right below the master and on INSIDE of the car floor, right below the master push-rod, connected to clutch pedal. Means – you need to peal off carpet to get to the metal. If any streaks of fluid are there, then master is leaking. I had 4 masters replaced on 2 cars in the last 2 years because of this.Yea, lets start with year, make, and model. In the mean time you might find this helpful.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-transmission-problems
Keep us posted.
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