replaced alternator…now no spark

[dseries16]

i am gonna create two threads on here for a somewhat similar reason.

I was recently very frustrated and in a hurry to replace my alternator and I didnt take the time to remove the negative battery cable long story short, it arced and now i am not getting spark.

I have checked all fuses under hood and under dash all good
it is turning over and i am getting fuel

the car is my honda civic that is in the build thread on here

and more info can be found here http://www.d-series.org/forums/general- … ost2410493

I am making the second thread for more of a refrence center for people that have done this and what they popped ( fuse, PCM, ICM, coil, or main relay, or whatever else) to make the problem a little bit more searchable i guess

Topic

[dseries16]

I have already bought an ICM cause that is what (by following erics video) i think the problem is.

Please i need some more input since most of the people I have talked to about this say that it is unlikely to be my ICM.

[gaseousmercury]

I have experienced a similar situation with my own Civic. The original coil went; I replaced it and it ran fine for about 2k miles before stalling in a busy intersection. I traced it back to the coil again. I replaced the coil, rotor and cap; it has been running great ever since. I would check the distributor gasket. I found that they tend to pinch in sometimes and the moisture that seeps in tends to prematurely age your coil so to speak. What coil brand and igniter did you use the lat time you changed them?

[dseries16]

I think it was a napa coil I know its not what everyone recomends for coils but I have not had a problem with them in the past so i didnt see a reason to change yet.

And no eric it is not an aftermarket distributor

I have now checked the ignition switch and rechecked the the fuses to make sure i didnt miss anything.

I called a repair shop here in town they said one of the fuses in the fuse box under the hood should have popped cause that is what usually happens.

I am starting to get extremely annoyed with my car i need it running again cause it costs me to much to drive my wifes car lol

[dreamer2355]

Your going to have to use some wiring diagrams and start tracing wires and checking for power and so forth with a DVOM on the ignition system.

Theres a very good thread already here for a no spark issue for another Honda. Maybe that will be some help as theres lots of tips there from Jacob on how to check for spark and such.

[dseries16]

I had an issue with no spark back in feb. I messaged eric back then and he helped with what he could I since figured out it was the coil and ignitor both were bad. I replaced them and ten hours later i spun a rod bearing….

so this is my rebuilt motor I have about 700 miles on the coil and ignitor before this no spark situation. I am following the same testing procedures that i used when they both failed I have already replaced my ignitor cause based on the tests i did it was bad.

now the porblem is it is still not getting spark and I am getting a code 15. I already reinstalled the “bad” ignitor reset the ecu and checked for the code again and it is still there.

code 15 in my 89 honda hatch with an engine from a 93 is ignition output signal error

now I have the new ignitor back in and here is the checklist i have completed so far.( not in chronological order)

resistance checked coil=good
input test of ignitor=good
battery voltage check at coil=good
fuses (test light and visual)=good
ECU checked=good
fuel pump priming=good
injectors firing=good
main relay turning on and off=good
spark at plug= no
spark at coil= no
ICM(ignitor) pulsing= no but brand new

[EricTheCarGuy]

By any chance is it an aftermarket distributor? If so it could be the crank or cam sensor within it not giving signal to the igniter to fire the coil.

[dseries16]

Well the guys over at http://www.d-series.org/forums/general- … spark.html helped me out. I got it running last night at about 130 bit it is running really rough.

The problem was there was no continuity from the ecu (p06 Honda ecu pin A21) to terminal D of the ignitor.

The fix…I ran a wire straight from the ecu to the dist plug and made a jumper. The car started right up so I cut the wire at the ecu and ran a new wire to the dist plug where I soldered another connection.

[dseries16]

Replaced cap, rotor, .plugwires, plugs 500 miles ago. Still runs really rough.

It sounds like a four wheeler.

[rice400]

check your timing

[dseries16]

ok so here is the update It is running and running great it was not timing.

It was a problem with the injector circuit for more details visit here http://www.d-series.org/forums/general- … ost2412204 cause I am late for work already.

thanks for your help guys

[EricTheCarGuy]

Wow those were some strange issues but I’m glad you got them worked out. Thanks for the update.

[dreamer2355]

Thanks for the update. I was wondering about this issue today.

[dseries16]

thanks for checkin up on me lol I had an issue with a high idle I had adjusted my fuel tables in my tuning program to adjust for it. I felt like a retard when l looked under the hood last night and the FPR vacuum hose was disconnected from the intake manifold….

talk about the perfect example of the KISS method. I went the hard route lol

This morning I re-adjusted my fuel tables and plugged the vacuum line back up.

the car is running great again just hit 1K last night

[Author]

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