Removing Stuck Brake Rotors

[RichWhitehead]

If you’ve ever found yourself looking for an even bigger BFH to remove stubborn brake rotors you may have a use for the video below:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtsTJCRljAs

Topic

[Ingvar]

I had my share of stuck – rusted to hub – Japanese rotors. For some reason, Honda and Toyoda are real bad about this.

I found this method working very well and with no chance of rotor warp:
MAKE SURE LITTLE SCREWS HOLDING ROTOR TO HUB ARE REMOVED. If not and can’t get them out – drill the heads off, they are useless anyway and serve no function.
1. squirt liberally Quick Wrench or other parting agent of choice into the stud holes, rotating rotor slowly, so that liquid distributes evenly.
2. let it soak for about 20 minutes
3. squirt another shot of parting agent into the holes. Leave it alone for another some time.
4. take a mid size hammer, position yourself conveniently to have a good swing and aim, and HIT rotor HARD somewhere between the studs. Do so several times, in criss-cross pattern. So far, after 3-4 strikes, even the stubbornest rotor pops right off.
I just did this to my Camry, maybe 3 months ago, replacing rear rotors.
I also learned to liberally smear antiseize onto the rotor inside before reinstall.
As a rule, I prefer not to hammer on rotor leading edge. Reason obvious. If I do, I use rubber mallet.

Another trick that works is to remove 2 lug nuts on 4-5 lug wheel, and 3 on 6-8 lug wheel. Loosen the rest of the lugs just enough to allow some wobble between wheel and rotor/hub assy. Start engine and slowly move vehicle back-for few times, maybe 3 feet. Usually pops rotor loose.

[Ingvar]

I had my share of stuck – rusted to hub – Japanese rotors. For some reason, Honda and Toyoda are real bad about this.

I found this method working very well and with no chance of rotor warp:
MAKE SURE LITTLE SCREWS HOLDING ROTOR TO HUB ARE REMOVED. If not and can’t get them out – drill the heads off, they are useless anyway and serve no function.
1. squirt liberally Quick Wrench or other parting agent of choice into the stud holes, rotating rotor slowly, so that liquid distributes evenly.
2. let it soak for about 20 minutes
3. squirt another shot of parting agent into the holes. Leave it alone for another some time.
4. take a mid size hammer, position yourself conveniently to have a good swing and aim, and HIT rotor HARD somewhere between the studs. Do so several times, in criss-cross pattern. So far, after 3-4 strikes, even the stubbornest rotor pops right off.
I just did this to my Camry, maybe 3 months ago, replacing rear rotors.
I also learned to liberally smear antiseize onto the rotor inside before reinstall.
As a rule, I prefer not to hammer on rotor leading edge. Reason obvious. If I do, I use rubber mallet.

Another trick that works is to remove 2 lug nuts on 4-5 lug wheel, and 3 on 6-8 lug wheel. Loosen the rest of the lugs just enough to allow some wobble between wheel and rotor/hub assy. Start engine and slowly move vehicle back-for few times, maybe 3 feet. Usually pops rotor loose.

[Ingvar]

Not to pet myself on the shoulder, but I busted a stud on son’s Mazdaspeed due to over torqued lug nut. Had to take rotor off to install new one. Sure enough, it won’t let go. 5 strokes between studs popped it loose just like this. Not even sprayed it with release agent.

[Ingvar]

Not to pet myself on the shoulder, but I busted a stud on son’s Mazdaspeed due to over torqued lug nut. Had to take rotor off to install new one. Sure enough, it won’t let go. 5 strokes between studs popped it loose just like this. Not even sprayed it with release agent.

[Author]

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