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85 ram 50. I have removed the intake/exhaust manifolds and all 10 head bolts. It will wobble and rock a bit but I cannot get more than a 1/8 inch gap on any one side when I try to lifts it.
It feels as if something under the head is holding it but not like RTV. I have slid a paint scraper along the gap and its clear. It feels like something metal holding it back from lifting off.I do not have an engine hoist.
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If you are absolutely certain that everything is disconnected properly try to use a pry bar to lift it up…. Preferably try to pry in a location other than between the head and the block… Sometimes the dowel pins can get sticky….
-Karl
Thank you Karl. I ate something and went out found the bolt that was in the way and it came right off.
the head is cracked in Cyl 3
It’s at TDC with the timing belt zip tied to the cam sprocket and resting on the bottom cover lip meant for it. The two cylinders I can feel are smooth. It cranked over smoothly no problems by hand.Here are some pics let me know if you guys think this looks OK to go ahead and put another head on it. Miles are 100900
I haven’t checked the junk yards yet. I know there are at least two of these guys out there in one yard.take it to a mechine shop and see if they can repair it. otherwize if its too expensive, try finding one at a junk yard.
Best option in my opinion would be a pick and pull yard. Find one that matches what you have, pull it out and have it evaluated by a machine shop. Just to make sure the head is within spec for flatness, and they can magna-flux it to check for hidden cracks. Where a head can be found for pretty cheap $$, spend the $ at the machine shop for the check over–If there is hidden damage or it’s warped, the yards offer a warranty so you can do an exchange.
(ours is something like 3 day cash back refund, or 30 day warranty for exchange or store credit. It varies according to the yard)
I love going to these places, because I always bring a “WANT” list and a “NEED” list. (Trim parts, knit pick items, etc…)
S-
Went to shop and there are many more cracks in the head than I showed in that pic. The one in the pic is the worst and they figure the one that blew it. They said there were signs it had burnt coolant. If I can find a junkyard head and it is not cracked max rebuild will be $400. The guy who said he had a rebuilt one on the shelf ready to go for $395+ core now doesn’t and he only has a new one which does not have the jet valve. He’s gonna call me back with a price.
Any idea how to tell if a motor is 2.0 or not by looking at it? I ask because the local says they don’t have one but I’ve been taking parts off two of them for years and it sure looks like the same rig motor and all to me.
One yard offered to order me a used on for $275 “guaranteed” I asked if they had pressure tested it and they said no. So the guarantee is they will take it back if its defective which is not a guarantee its the law.Have you done a search on car-part dot com?
They seem to run about 65-400 (did an area search from where I live)
Our local U Pull yard sells them for $41 plus a $10 core. (They do not rebuild anything–they just want the scrap metal back.)
You can look at the trucks yourself in one of those yards. They have a basic inventory system that can help you with what row/section the junker will be in. From there it’s using common sense and checking the head/engine to ensure it’s the same. Take some snap shots of the engine head, ports and such. Even can use casting marks.
It’s not 100% you’ll find a good one–I would pick one up and have a shop inspect it prior to install. If it’s no good or needs a lot of $$? Then you have a few days to return it for a refund, or about 30 days or so for exchange/credit.
Just saying it’s an option.
S-
I found one online and I hadn’t gotten back here yet when your post came in.
Its ready to install, it has 2v instead of 3v* which is what I want since I’ve got a Weber instead of the stock carb, with a prepaid return shipping label for the core and no core charge for 30 days as long as I send the core back. All for only $15 over the list price that guy I mentioned had it at and it comes to my house saving what will probably be the price of the gaskets and new bolts in gas money. Yea
I’ll update when it comes in next week and thank you.*Apparently that spot where there is a fitting at the base of the spark plug hole is what is considered the 3rd valve on this head.
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